Author Topic: EFI: Lean then Rich  (Read 10107 times)

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r80rt

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Reply #15 on: September 27, 2010, 01:45:29 pm
Mine didn't have one either, but it does now!
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Mance

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Reply #16 on: September 29, 2010, 11:07:58 pm
Well, it looks like that was the issue.  After talking to the dealer, he said that the EFI system runs rich in the first two minutes of use.  After that, it settles into a normal mix.  However, most of my rides have been abut 5-8 minutes, which means that a significant portion of my ride is running rich, and subsequently fowled the plug.  I had the biked serviced a few weeks ago, and a brand new plug had already gone bad.

The low battery contributed to the ignition problems.

Also, apparently there have been problems with the fuel tanks.  The distributor has ordered a batch from India because of the demand.  But RE is taking care of the problem.  They are paying for a liner in my existing tank and will also replace it when the new tanks arrive.

I guess you could say that my bike and I are getting acquainted.   8)

Mance


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #17 on: September 29, 2010, 11:39:24 pm
Coming into this a bit late. The EFI is not under full control until the O2 sensor heats up. it is the ugly device bolted to the exhaust pipe. It has a heater element in it, but it takes a minute or two for it to fully kick in. When it does kick in, it tells the ECU (brain) exactly how much O2 is in the exhaust which allows the ECU to compensate for the perfect mixture. Before it kicks in the ECU has to run rich to keep things moving. When you start the bike cold you may want to use what looks like a decompressor on the left handle bar. It enrichens the mixture like a choke. As soon as the sensor kicks in moving it has no effect.

Long story short, start stop stop start will foul the plug. We are having some trouble in some cities in Switzerland with this issue. Apparently you have to turn off your bike at every stoplight. They are fouling plugs like crazy.
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clamp

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Reply #18 on: September 30, 2010, 12:57:45 pm
Obviousl;y the engine management control is not sufficient, ie insufficient information feeding the control unit.

    I knew it --they should not have ended the 350 iron with a carb on it until they had it sorted .

     I dont care id they do.-- I still dont want EFI   well not RE indian anyway.
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tomselwyndavis

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Reply #19 on: February 01, 2014, 10:53:53 am
Hello,

Also coming to this a bit late. Bought a beautiful black classic after riding one 2500km across the Indian Himalayas and instantly fell in love. However I too am having this problem, My bike has a shorter non stock exhaust (sounds fantastic) and was riding fine for about 500 miles until the exact problems that Mance listed started happening on my daily commute in London. For the first 2-3 miles the bike is almost un-ridable, popping, backfiring and setting off every car alarm I drive past but if I stick with it the bike starts to ride beautifully, (smells a little hot though) Mance did you eventually solve this problem without having to turn it off at every traffic light? Also getting tired of having to buy a new spark plug every 2 weeks!

Many thanks!

 


Mr.Mazza

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Reply #20 on: February 01, 2014, 12:05:06 pm
Hello,

Also coming to this a bit late. Bought a beautiful black classic after riding one 2500km across the Indian Himalayas and instantly fell in love. However I too am having this problem, My bike has a shorter non stock exhaust (sounds fantastic) and was riding fine for about 500 miles until the exact problems that Mance listed started happening on my daily commute in London. For the first 2-3 miles the bike is almost un-ridable, popping, backfiring and setting off every car alarm I drive past but if I stick with it the bike starts to ride beautifully, (smells a little hot though) Mance did you eventually solve this problem without having to turn it off at every traffic light? Also getting tired of having to buy a new spark plug every 2 weeks!

Many thanks!

 

My suggestion would be to, walk up to your bike,start it. THEN go put your gear on and prepare for your trip.
5 mins later everything is settled and it should have a smooth ride all day.
This allows all the EFI system to start up taking readings and all that.
Also helps oil bathe everything before any load is on the engine.
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #21 on: February 02, 2014, 09:37:49 pm
Hello,

Also coming to this a bit late. Bought a beautiful black classic after riding one 2500km across the Indian Himalayas and instantly fell in love. However I too am having this problem, My bike has a shorter non stock exhaust (sounds fantastic) and was riding fine for about 500 miles until the exact problems that Mance listed started happening on my daily commute in London. For the first 2-3 miles the bike is almost un-ridable, popping, backfiring and setting off every car alarm I drive past but if I stick with it the bike starts to ride beautifully, (smells a little hot though) Mance did you eventually solve this problem without having to turn it off at every traffic light? Also getting tired of having to buy a new spark plug every 2 weeks!

Many thanks!

 


   + 1  to longer warm up period and use of the Bi-starter when it is cold and damp out.  Also, the  shorter , freer flowing exhaust may be a bit of a contributing factor while the bike is still cold and running a fixed map before it goes into closed loop..... with all that popping and backfiring. 

  That fuel has to easily vaporize , and it doesn't when cold .  The bi-starter helps it to.  Cold fuel in a cold engine causes an inefficient burn which also causes carbon .... a byproduct of incomplete combustion.... fouling your plug.  That inefficient burn is one thing at idle until it warms up and the ECU can take over..... but when you hop right on the bike and take off, working that throttle and spraying more cold fuel into a cold engine until the ECU can take over ....   
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


jameswilkinson

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Reply #22 on: April 09, 2014, 04:07:07 pm
Hi all!

Thanks for all your tips. To let you know. I took the head off and it was the piston that had shattered. I have bought a new one and am in the midst of replacing the old one.

There are quite a few shards of the metal including bits of broken piston ring that have however come and are swimming in the sump. Ive bought an extendible magnet which has managed to pick up a fair bit of the metal however I was wondering if anyone had any other techniques for getting the metal shards out. Perhaps I could drain them out? or rinse them out with water?

Any tips again much appreciated. Hopefully can do the fix for < £100 :)

cheers all!