Author Topic: Question on Primary Chain of UCE  (Read 18156 times)

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singhg5

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Reply #15 on: September 23, 2010, 05:43:23 am
Singh JI, there is no set mileage for guideline to check primary chain play. Although if you undo the bolt on the LH side chamber, you can check the up/down movement of the primary chain by inserting your finger to get the feel for the play. There is no set guideline to say how much is acceptable but my experience is that there is hardly 1-2mm play when the chain tensioner is working properly.


I had the auto tensioner go on my C5 at 1200miles and now at 9.7kmiles its gone again and I am awaiting for the part so there is a possibility that the tensioner has gone bad on yours. Symptoms of it is a rumbling noise at idle if the tensioner is gone.

Regarding your rear acceptable slag at the rear, I have never measured the slag but on mine is not more then 3cm. You will get a bit of slag if your chain is a bit loose and also if the cushion rubbers in the rear hub are gone.

My observation is that the rear cushion rubbers are weaker and we need a bit better rubbers. RE is using the same rubbers as on AVL but the bike is a bit lighter and less torque so these rubbers do a good life time in them but not the case on UCE 500.

I have changed the cushion rubbers three times in 9.7kMiles as I really don't like them going to soft which has an effect on the acceleration and giving a spongy and not so accurate brake feel. So again a possibility that the rubbers on yours are gone which in turn is providing you with a bit too much slack.

SSR:

You have some good points and I will do some testing. 

I do not remember any rumbling noise at idle but I will check again carefully.  But the back lash is really bothersome and will definitely wear down or damage the bike.

In the meantime, can you test your rear wheel play (not chain), with bike on center stand and in first gear - as explained at the beginning of the post. 
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singhg5

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Reply #16 on: September 23, 2010, 05:52:32 am
GHG:

Would you get off that one track mind - blowing off someones shield - and get back to some work...........  :D

How much is the play in your bike's Rear Wheel (not chain) on center stand and in first gear, as I tested.  Need some comarison numbers.  
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #17 on: September 23, 2010, 02:42:39 pm
GHG:

Would you get off that one track mind - blowing off someones shield - and get back to some work...........  :D

How much is the play in your bike's Rear Wheel (not chain) on center stand and in first gear, as I tested.  Need some comarison numbers.  
OK, OK !!  I must have some fun once in a while ::) I'll check for you.
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r80rt

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Reply #18 on: September 23, 2010, 03:14:51 pm
I have 1 1/2 inches on my C5, the different sprocket and tire sizes between the C5 and G5 may have some influence here, maybe not.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2010, 04:48:28 pm by r80rt »
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Andy

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Reply #19 on: September 23, 2010, 03:29:47 pm
I have 1 1/2 inches on my C5, the different sprocket sizes between the C5 and G5 may have some influence here, maybe not.

About the same on mine.  Maybe 1 3/4.  I didn't measure it exactly.
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singhg5

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Reply #20 on: September 23, 2010, 05:54:43 pm
I have 1 1/2 inches on my C5, the different sprocket and tire sizes between the C5 and G5 may have some influence here, maybe not.
About the same on mine.  Maybe 1 3/4.  I didn't measure it exactly.

So far, we have info on 4 bikes -
WillW                    40-45 mm (avg 42.5)
Chris G5                 35 mm
r80rt                      38 mm
Andy                     43 mm (est)

AVERAGE           = 40 mm
RANGE               = 35 to 43 mm

Let us see how many more numbers we get.  Once this play is quantified, it will help diagnose problems related to components that contribute to the play.  Each component can be individually examined and by process of elimination one can find the root cause of problem.  These components include -

primary chain
primary chain auto-tensioner
clutch
gear box
drive chain
cushion rubbers on the rear wheel

Is anything missing or overlooked ?  Need input - says Johny5 (Short Circuit  ;) )
« Last Edit: September 23, 2010, 06:10:17 pm by singhg5 »
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r80rt

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Reply #21 on: September 23, 2010, 06:19:13 pm
Shouldn't your bike be included?
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2bikebill

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Reply #22 on: September 23, 2010, 06:29:42 pm
I'm glad you're getting some input on this, Singh.
With careful observation it's easy to rule out rear chain and cush rubbers as the cause of this free play. And I strongly suspect that a deal of free play in the gearbox is normal on these bikes. This has been confirmed to me by quite a few people far more knowledgeable of motorbikes than I am - both here on the forum and elsewhere.
This has pretty much reassured me, even though I would find this degree of mechanical slack unacceptable in any other machine (I have a workshop full of them) or in any of the many (often very old) cars I have owned and maintained over the years.
It seems bikes are different. As I mentioned before - it's a case of living with it and riding accordingly I guess. For more ressurance, check the other bikes at your dealership...?
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singhg5

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Reply #23 on: September 23, 2010, 06:40:29 pm
Shouldn't your bike be included?
No.  Because I am calculating Normal and Healthy bike parameter.  Once we have more bikes' info then one can define what is Unacceptable Play.   

My bike is behaving in unhealthy way - it requires lot more clutch than before.  If I do not use (overuse) clutch, the ride is 'jerky'.  I need to find the root cause of problem.  Perhaps you have already seen that my bike's play is 52 mm.  Comparing that to other four bikes, it is clearly more than the range seen so far 35 - 43 mm !
« Last Edit: September 23, 2010, 06:43:35 pm by singhg5 »
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r80rt

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Reply #24 on: September 23, 2010, 06:47:57 pm
What does your dealer say about this?
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SSR

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Reply #25 on: September 23, 2010, 06:49:09 pm
Oh dear, I think I have won the slack challenge. Just measured mine and its more then 50mm. Although the chain tensioner is shot on mine but I doubt if it can result in so much of play.

I think the best and more accurate way would be to measure the slack with the LH side chamber + clutch off and measure the slack by holding the clutch shaft and the front chain sprocket.

Things I am ruling out on mine

Cushion rubber- as mine was just changed recently
Chain- is adjusted to the minimum slack possible

I removed the Rh chamber and took off the drive chain. Shifted in gear and moved the drive sprocket. The slack was still there.

So I am more inclined to believe that its in the gearbox and very less chance of shot chain tensioner to cause enough slack to transfer it to the gears.

Singh JI, I think we all should put the slack measurements with the mileage of the bike for a clearer picture.

Singh  G5     52mm            +10,000miles
SSR    C5     50mm                9,800miles
Will                42.5mm              ????
Chris   G5    35mm                  ????
r80rt             38mm                  ????
Andy            48mm                  ????
« Last Edit: September 23, 2010, 06:59:02 pm by SSR »


2bikebill

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Reply #26 on: September 23, 2010, 06:51:44 pm
This new jerkiness isn't a throttle issue is it Singh?
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singhg5

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Reply #27 on: September 23, 2010, 06:53:48 pm
What does your dealer say about this?
What Dealer !  Do you believe that ALL dealers know the bike and its specifications ?

Don't even go there, my friend - you know what it means  ;).
« Last Edit: September 23, 2010, 06:55:51 pm by singhg5 »
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r80rt

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Reply #28 on: September 23, 2010, 06:58:08 pm
What gear and what speed do you experience jerkiness?
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singhg5

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Reply #29 on: September 23, 2010, 06:59:50 pm
This new jerkiness isn't a throttle issue is it Singh?
I don't think so.  But I sure don't like how much clutch I need to use.

It was not like this before and ran beautifully.  I could easily let go off throttle and then pick up without having to pull clutch lever in (unless ofcourse you go below certain rpm).  
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
2006 Honda Nighthawk
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5