Author Topic: Tears of Endearment on G5  (Read 8821 times)

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singhg5

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Reply #15 on: September 13, 2010, 05:38:48 pm
Sigh JI can you post a picture of the exploded view of the fork assembly from the service manual, that would give a clear picture to what parts are on the assembly.

SSR ji:

Here is the picture of exploded view of the fork and its parts from the parts catalog for G5.  This picture does not show the Top Screw Plug attachment to the fork.

I have added another picture, with the top screw, a few posts later.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2010, 06:42:59 pm by singhg5 »
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #16 on: September 13, 2010, 05:50:16 pm
The hex I was referring to is actually made right in to the top of the fork tube. And if you can screw it one way or another then your fork tube is loose.
After it is screwed all the way up the pinch clamp in the lower tree is tightened so it won't unscrew itself.
Don't know if the C5 is different but change doesn't seem to happen at REM often.
CJ
Yea CJ, I realize that. I not talking about spinning the hex or plug in or out, I'm talking maybe a 1/4-1/2 a turn. I think those legs are hand screwed in a the factory. So there's a thread or two left., after tightening. I guess you could sock it up tighter with a strap wrench or pipe wrench?  But I'm not seeing any movement in the leg. Especialy with the lower's pinched up.
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


singhg5

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Reply #17 on: September 13, 2010, 05:51:03 pm
Somewhere down the line RE has changed the design of the end caps and rods of C5 fork or there is a difference between the domestic and export C5 suspension.

In one diagram it has 4 parts of a assembly  of a end cap of the fork where as Will said that he can unscrew the flange bolt and he's absolutely right and I am not lucky enough like Will to unscrew the bolt to check or feed oil into the rod. For me the whole suspension has to come out to put some fresh oil.

WillW and I have G5 or its equivalent that has a user friendly design.  Open the drain plug at the bottom of the fork to remove the oil and fill it from top without having to take out the forks.  I think CJ or someone had mentioned about how easy it is to change fork oil on his RE.  

Below is a picture of ESTIMATED oil level in the fork using a hanger wire through the top opening.  Can anyone confirm these kind of levels ?  
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SSR

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Reply #18 on: September 13, 2010, 06:22:20 pm
Thanks Singh Ji for the picture

Here I have attached the two different C5 suspension setup.


gashousegorilla

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Reply #19 on: September 13, 2010, 06:25:23 pm
 Yup, My C-5 has a different design. Sorry to add any confusion. ::) But intersting stuff though. You got it !, Singh ;)
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


singhg5

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Reply #20 on: September 13, 2010, 06:37:02 pm
Yup, My C-5 has a different design. Sorry to add any confusion. ::) But intersting stuff though. You got it !, Singh ;)

No problem at all, Thanks for calling. 
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singhg5

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Reply #21 on: September 13, 2010, 06:38:43 pm
Thanks Singh Ji for the picture
Here I have attached the two different C5 suspension setup.

The following picture is from the Service Manual and it shows the set up on G5 with Top Screw Plug.
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SSR

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Reply #22 on: September 13, 2010, 06:53:27 pm
G5 seems like a much simpler design.

As you say the cap on yours was loose so looking at it I think the leak should stop since you have tightened it. If it doesn't then just change the O-ring.


Can anyone shed some light to why there are two different design for C5 rods?


singhg5

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Reply #23 on: September 13, 2010, 07:09:39 pm
I had a similar leak on my '04 Sixty-5. It has a little O-ring at the very top of the fork.  If tightening up the tube and replacing the O-ring in the cap doesn't get it you will have to pull the top tube and replace that little sucker.

Leonard:

Thanks for your post and the picture.  In my G5, there is no such round threaded hole on the top of upper fork.  There is only a flattened hexagonal hole on which the tip of the Top Srew Plug sits.  Do you have 2 plugs - one on top of the fork, and another on the headlight casing ? 
« Last Edit: September 13, 2010, 07:14:42 pm by singhg5 »
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #24 on: September 13, 2010, 07:42:07 pm
G5 seems like a much simpler design.

As you say the cap on yours was loose so looking at it I think the leak should stop since you have tightened it. If it doesn't then just change the O-ring.


Can anyone shed some light to why there are two different design for C5 rods?
??? Mabe should have left well enough alone? That system makes maintenance MUCH EASIER!
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


Leonard

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Reply #25 on: September 15, 2010, 08:41:12 pm
Leonard:

Thanks for your post and the picture.  In my G5, there is no such round threaded hole on the top of upper fork.  There is only a flattened hexagonal hole on which the tip of the Top Srew Plug sits.  Do you have 2 plugs - one on top of the fork, and another on the headlight casing ? 

Only one plug that goes in the visible threads.  The hexagonal hole is down there, you can just make out one side if you look close.  The O-ring I'm referring to isn't visible unless you unscrew the top tube.
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singhg5

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Reply #26 on: September 16, 2010, 09:28:19 pm
Only one plug that goes in the visible threads.  The hexagonal hole is down there, you can just make out one side if you look close.  The O-ring I'm referring to isn't visible unless you unscrew the top tube.
Leonard:

You have really clarified some of the questions in my mind.  Now I see what you mean.  I did see a part of the hexagonal hole, deep down in your picture.

In one of my pictures in this post (SDC13951) that shows the exploded view of fork,  the O-ring you are referring to is No. 2 in the picture ?  I could not find where was this O-ring on my bike until you described with picture.  Thanks.

I do have one question though -  If the Top Screw Plug is long enough and its tip reaches the hexagonal hole and covers it fully, how can oil come out and reach the O-ring (no.2 in picture) and then slip outside ?  The reason I am asking is that in the other picture - with big hex hole (SDC13947A) - the edges of hex hole show a circular marking as if the tip of Top Screw Plug was touching it and blocking it.  When it became a little loose, the contact was broken and oil came out.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2010, 09:39:33 pm by singhg5 »
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singhg5

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Reply #27 on: September 24, 2010, 11:13:00 pm
Just wanted to add that the Top Screw Plug does NOT reach the hexagonal hole.  It is short by about 3 mm.  The oil can jump all the way up the fork and spill out of hex hole when the front shocks hit railway lines or riding over bumpy or cracked and corrugated surface of road.  The O-ring that Leonard has mentioned must be replaced or the top end of fork is loose and needs to be screwed in tightly.
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
2006 Honda Nighthawk
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5