[singhg5]

..... You can mark them it you like. That will only give you an idea of were you were before you loosened everything up.

That is precisely the reason why I mark the snail because it gives me a starting point before I do my next adjustment.  The marks are NOT necessarily on the same notch on the left and right side snails.  The marks are located on notches where the wheel was straight before I forget which notch on right side and which notch on left side was required to keep my rear wheel straight.

When I need to adjust next time, I can turn snails by equal amounts (right and left side) and wheel will be straight - because it started straight and it is moved back equally on both sides.   This saves me time and work of having to check for straightness everytime I do minor adjustment.  After adjustment I test ride the bike to confirm that it is ok, THEN erase the older marks and put new marks on notches.  

[r80rt]

Yep, that's how to do it.

[gashousegorilla]

Yes singh, I agree, and that was basically my point. Although I would check for straightness EVERY time. It does not take that much. Particularly with the C-5's longer swing arm. I would not assume by turning the snails an equal amount, that the wheels are in line. They may very well be , but have a look. It is probably more likely in your case with the G-5's shorter swing arm. Remember, what is causing the snails to be on different spots is due to the unequal way the side rails of the swingarm pull together when tightening the axle. Your adjusting for that with the snails. Your really Straightening the axle in the slot. It probably winds up being close, but have a look to be sure.

[singhg5]

GHG:  Long time back, I had checked straighness of rear wheel using a long string, wrapped around rear wheel going forward to front wheel - there was some obstruction of stand and so on.  But I am not much fan of that method.  I usually check it visually from rear or occasionally see if rear wheel is in the middle of two arms of swing arm.  Anyway, I am not very keen on doing all that again and again. 

Here is my other not so scientific method that works for me.  The principle is that if my rear wheel is REALLY out of alignment, it will affect the direction of my front wheel when I take my hands OFF the handle bar - motorcycle running on flat road  .  So that is my clue - rear wheel is good or not !! 

[gashousegorilla]

 There ya go, common sence. Have a look. Straighten the front end, sight the chain and the wheels. The string thing is a little over the top.

[hocko]

Again thanks, I've just fitted a screen, 110 % improvement, , just to do the chain on the weekend and all will be well. What a great forum !!

[davem]

Thanks for the advice singhg5(wise words) I'll take note and and give the chain more
attention in the future.
cheers Davem

[ieatalot]

The problem I am having is when I go to tighten the rear wheel nut after replacing the rear wheel, the right side backs away from the pin that marks the snail adjuster when I tighten. Any ideas?.

[Arizoni]

Watch the snail as you tighten the nut.  If it starts to move use a straight bladed screw driver and a small hammer to tap it back in position.  Then continue to tighten the nut.

[wildbill]

i just squat at the rear of the bike and push the rear wheel forward. once it locks into position i use a screwdriver through the center pin on the left to hold the shaft then tighten it up 

[no bs]

the brake anchor nut on my 2011 g5 is 18mm. cannot recommend a 19mm wrench on a 18mm fastener. maybe it's different on others?

[mattsz]

Ok, since we're on chain care and wheel alignment, I'll pipe up…

Chain cleaning:  I've been lubing my chain with PJ1 Blue Label spray...



...following the directions, and I get lots of thick black gunk thrown off, on the engine and on my rear wheel.  I've done it directly after a ride when the chain is warm; I've sprayed as little as I could while still coating all the moving bits; I've let it rest overnight to "dry"; I've tried to mop up excess with a rag again and again… all with the same result.  Heck, I even let it rest for 4 months and it still blew chunks when I took it for a spin.  This particular can, incidentally, says nothing about cleaning.  But it does go on clear, so it must be collecting dirt to make it so black.

I'm about to install an o-ring chain, and I'm wondering about this problem.  In theory, the internal moving parts are lubed and protected with the o-rings' help, but I still have to lube the outside, and based on my experience so far, I'll have to clean it as well.  What's the deal with o-ring chain cleaning?  What should I use that's effective and won't kill the o-rings?  What's the best way to properly lube the chain without making a mess?  The manufacturers directions, at least those of the makers of PJ1, can't seem to be trusted...


Wheel alignment: I haven't properly checked my wheel alignment yet; when I've adjusted my chain, I've always moved my snails the same number of "clicks" each side.  When I replace the chain, I'll check the alignment.

Meanwhile, the bike seems to steer true, but when I ride down "my hill" and ease off the handlebars ("no hands"), the bike wants to ease slightly to the right - I can actually lean a bit to the left and have it track straight.  Does this suggest that the rear wheel is pointing a bit to the left?  Based on this limited information, would anyone suggest a quick adjustment one way or the other?

[Ducati Scotty]

On o ring chains I use Maxima chain wax.  Spray it on generously and the use a rag to clean it and any accumulated gunk off.  Once clean, spray again lightly and wipe off most of the excess with a paper towel.  Then let it dry.  LT Snyder had this documented on his DesmoTimes site but the site is down right now because he was called to active duty.  I find this keeps my o/x ring chains clean and working well for many miles.

Scott

[barenekd]

The slack is supposed to be set with someone on the bike, However I've found that 1-1/2" on the center stand works out quite well. Be sure to check it at the tightest part of the chain. As you rotate it, you will find that the chain will tighten and slacken. You will also find that the chain adjustments will come a lot more frequently. The sleeves and pins will start breaking up and let the chain become slack, "Stretching". As the chains age, the deterioration becomes more rapid. Keep an eye on the sprockets, don't let them get to where they are showing wear. If you change the chain soon enough, you can save on the sprocket change. You are probably good for a few thousand (3 or 4) more miles, but keep the chain well oiled.
Bare

[Ducati Scotty]

+1.  Set the chain slack with the bike on the centerstand and the rear wheel unloaded.  Setting it with someone on the bike as the manual instructs is just foolish, there are so many variables you can't expect to get it right.  I got with 2" of slack but I think i weigh more than Bare.

Scott