[singhg5]

Just how much lash do you have in your final chain? Mine is allways loose and I never have this problem.  

What you wrote is really interesting.  When I had my original chain on G5, that happened to be more loose than what I have now, it was not that much an issue.  The original chain was 101 pin Rolon and now I have 102 pin DID chain.  Why they behave so different, I am still mulling over that point.  

Even though I do not know or understand the reason fully, but just a thought that the top and bottom run may have different slacks when I switched from 101 to 102 pin chain.  May be the ratio of top run slack divided by bottom run slack have some role in jerkiness.  The other possibility is that 101 pin is shorter chain, so the distance travelled between front sprocket to rear wheel sprocket is smaller.  With shorter chain, the response reaches rear wheel quicker than with longer chain.  But then 1 pin difference should not make this much difference in the performance and ride.

May be someone like Vince or Scooter Bob or you in the Forum know more about it and can give an insight into it.  

[PhilJ]

I don't really know the answer, but my "common" sense tells me that, at least, a difference in chain size to that that the bike was designed around would decrease the life expectancy of both chain and sprockets.

[Vince]

     A lot of older bikes, particularly British, used an odd number of pins to get the wheel base to the designed optimum. This necessitated using a half link. This half link is the weakest part of the chain, by far. That is why it is no longer used . Most chains do not even have one available.
     Ideally you will adjust the chain when the center of the front sprocket, the center of the swing arm pivot, and the center of the rear axle are in a straight line. This is longest point between the sprockets. Here it should have 1/2 to 3/4 inch of slack midway between the sprockets, on the bottom run.   From here, any suspension movement will cause the chain to loosen. If nothing else, at least adjust it with your weight on the bike as this is how it is normally ridden. In this case it should have about 3/4 to 1 inch of slack.
     Here is the secret trick: Chains and sprockets wear unevenly. Thus there will always be tight and loose spots in the chain. Rotate the wheel and watch the chain. You can see it tighten and loosen. ADJUST AT THE TIGHT SPOT. This will eliminate most noises and will smooth the engagement process. I know it may be "too loose" elsewhere in the run. This will cause no problem unless the chain is worn out and needs replacement anyway. If you adjust at the loose spot, the tight spot will be too tight. This will cause binding and snatching as it rolls over the sprocket.
     So don't worry about getting it "perfect". Just get it perfect at the tight spot. Everything else will be fine.

[cyrusb]

My 05 had a half link from the factory. After changing to the blessed "19" I could use a new DID chain with all full links, no problems with either. Something to remember about bikes with the drive sprocket hidden behind the clutch, as Enfields and Harleys big twins have. By the nature of that design,  the countershaft sprocket center is much farther away from the swingarm pivot than conventional setups. This makes for very active chain length changes as you go over bumps. What might seem like a good adjustment will be very tight when the rear suspension is compressed. You can see this for yourself if you have a couple friends sit on the bike. The changes in length is surprising. And is hell on your drive bearings. Err on the loose side.