Hey all! Sub and I were having this discussion....our dealer has been recommending 2 L of oil on oil changes, but the manual says 2.75. (?) Is there that much left in the motor after draining? or is he off?
Yes I did a full oil change today (filter etc), and removed all the oil I could from the bike (tilting as recommended in the manual, etc). I put in both quarts of oil and the level filled the oil sight glass. Then I started the bike and the level totally disappeared, likely as it drew oil into the filter and channels within the casing. This was a bit scary, so I shut my bike off after 30 seconds or so.Also wanted to add that the enfield dealer is recommending this oil....which is a 20w50 oil and a brand I've never heard of! I guess 20w instead of 15w is OK with me as I'm a summer-only rider. On the back it says it has synthetic additives, but does that make it a "semi-synthetic" as called for in the manual?The manual states:"15W, 50API, SL grade, JASO MA, ESTER - Semi Synthetic Oil or equivalent"Does the pictured "SH, CD grade" oil meet Enfield requirements? I found this description: "'SM' is the current top grade, which recently replaced 'SL' and 'SH'. 'SH' will be found on most expensive oils, and almost all the new synthetics. It's basically an upgraded 'SG' oil which has been tested more sternly." .. which sounds good, then I read: http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_ratings.pdf which says SH, CD oil is obsolete! Oh, and whats with the paraffin base?! ps - make sure when you guys do oil changes to clean the prefilter - check mine out in the picture above at 300 miles. It was caked with what looked like dust, grease, and other odd bits. Yuk!
Different Brands have their own additives that they feel makes them best. Sometimes the additives are not compatible between brands. Since some oil stays in the primary during a change, I would be Leary on changing brands mid stream.There are a lot more brands than refineries but don't let that fool you. The refinery makes a few particular "flavors" but the finished product is not finished until it is packaged for sale and transport. The folks who do the packaging are the folks who put in the additives for each brand.IMHO Pick a good quality National Brand that is readily available and competitively sold and stick with it. -Quinn
In Chapter 6 he recommends if you buy oil on the road and have to make a change due to availability then you should go to a lesser "weight" but maintain the same brand.The intention of my point was to say that each brand of oil contains a specific recipe of additives that are designed to work together. The combination, and ratio's of additives and how they work together is very relevant. The most expensive oil change is far less than the least expensive motor job. Why mix when the product is available everywhere darn cheap per mile traveled you can always run one brand out at oil change and then switch? There is a lot of science, technology and effort behind recomendations made by a company when they recomend a specific oil, Messing wih it is just out of my comfort zone.
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