Author Topic: Carburetor tuning  (Read 10716 times)

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1 Thump

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on: July 21, 2010, 12:59:31 am
I have looked elsewhere but have been unable to locate a diagram of the carb on the electra.

The pilot and main jet are easily adjustable. I removed the float bowl and just crewed in the new jets.

I would like to adjust the needle/slide to make it more rich. I was wondering if you could guide me to a diagram which illustrates the anatomy of the carb or instruction on how to tune it.

Thanks.


singhg5

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Reply #1 on: July 21, 2010, 05:10:42 am
Don't know what carburetter you have but found this UK website for rebuilding Amal carburetter -

http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/TechnicalDetail.aspx?id=11
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
2006 Honda Nighthawk
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5


1 Thump

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Reply #2 on: July 21, 2010, 06:21:26 am
Thanks 22G !


mtrueblood

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Reply #3 on: July 21, 2010, 01:46:46 pm
The "Super Factory Service Manual" has exploded views and maintenance procedures for CV and VM carbs.  I'm told I have the CV carb on my 2009 Bullet AVL.  I just noticed a mislabelled part in the diagram of the CV carb, though (a hose labelled as a jet). 
Michael Trueblood


ScooterBob

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Reply #4 on: July 21, 2010, 05:01:20 pm
A quick glance at the illustration in question (50th anniversary Service Manual Section, Chapter 08-1 “Blow up view of CV Carburettor”) leads one quickly to the problem – and the solution. Apparently, the fellow that labeled the drawing in the beginning had dyslexia. The trouble starts with part #14 on the illustration, which points to the carburettor body. It is in fact listed on the parts list as #41 – this is where the trouble begins. If you take all the descriptors and simply move them DOWN one place from number 14 it’s about right. the CORRECTED list should be:

 

1. Top Cover Fixing Screw
2. Diaphragm Top Cover
3. Piston Valve Spring
4. Jet needle Plate Fix Screw
5. Jet Needle Fixing Plate
6. Jet Needle Retainer Spring
7. Jet Needle Washer
8. Jet Needle E-Ring
9. Jet Needle Ring
10. Jet Needle
11. Piston Valve Assembly
12. Diaphragm (Piston Valve)
13. Diaphragm Retainer Ring
14. Carburettor Assembly
15.Air Vent Hose
16. Needle Jet
17. O-Ring
18. Jet Holder
19. Main Jet
20. Float Needle Valve (with clip)
21. Float Pin
22. Screw
23.O-Ring
23A. Float Body Assembly
24. Float Body
25. Lock Washer
26. Screw
27. Drain Hose
28. Drain Screw
29. Idle Stop adjust screw
30. Washer
31. Spring
32. Pilot Jet
33. Pilot Air Jet
34. Clip – Hose Drain
35. Plunger Assembly
36. O-Ring
37. Washer
38. Spring
39. Pilot Screw
40. Cap

Don't MAKE me do this again ...... write it down!  ::)
Spare the pig iron - spoil the part!


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Reply #5 on: July 21, 2010, 05:37:08 pm
Scooterbob!  
« Last Edit: July 21, 2010, 08:16:56 pm by 1 Thump »


mtrueblood

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Reply #6 on: July 21, 2010, 06:53:33 pm
Duuuuude !!!???
Michael Trueblood


ScooterBob

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Reply #7 on: July 21, 2010, 08:30:07 pm
As it's been pointed out to me - I omitted key number 20A from the list. This was done on purpose to save confusion from the terminology AND because it isn't available separately anyway ...... so DON'T LOSE THE DARN THING! ... MMMMMKay?  ;)
Spare the pig iron - spoil the part!


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Reply #8 on: July 21, 2010, 10:27:50 pm
Duuuuude !!!???

A little cheer for SB. Nothing wrong with that. Or is it ?


ScooterBob

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Reply #9 on: July 21, 2010, 11:42:22 pm
A little cheer for SB. Nothing wrong with that. Or is it ?

I'll take what I can GET these days!! hahaha! Thank yee, thank yee ..... !
Spare the pig iron - spoil the part!


tooseevee

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Reply #10 on: July 26, 2010, 01:00:23 am
Don't know what carburetter you have but found this UK website for rebuilding Amal carburetter -

http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/TechnicalDetail.aspx?id=11

          Which Electra AVLs have Amals?

           My '08 has a Mikuni BS 29.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


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Reply #11 on: July 28, 2010, 06:26:48 pm
Fixed ! And it starts in one kick now.  ;D, and idles rock steady.


Mick Bailey

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Reply #12 on: July 30, 2010, 06:05:36 pm
Out of interest, what jets did you fit and what did you do to the needle - was it the jets that made the difference or moving the needle to make it a one-kick bike?

What exhaust/PAV removal/filter mods have you made?



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Reply #13 on: July 30, 2010, 08:57:26 pm
I put in a size 20 pilot jet, and 135 main jet. Needle is stock. I do plan on making it a little rich.

It starts first kick because it is running rich, maybe too rich. More fuel means more atomized fuel or droplets in the combustion chamber= higher chances of ignition with the single spark. It is usually a single kick, but at times two kicks , but not more. It is also summer time, which means a cold start really is not that cold.

Ideally it should take a couple kicks with the choke. And that is how to start a debate here.

I have  KnN filter in the box; and a shorty muffler. PAV will be gone soon.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2010, 09:10:53 pm by 1 Thump »


R.D.

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Reply #14 on: July 30, 2010, 10:08:45 pm
Thump,

This is one link i have saved in my bookmarks for the Mikuni BS29 CV carb

It also is an O.E. fitment in a Bajaj Pulsar 180 cc bike manufactured by Bajaj Auto Ltd. - India and i had saved it during my forum browsing sessions.
Architecure and internals are exactly the same - The only difference is the main jet & pilot jet sizes versus the Royal Enfield 500 cc C.V. carb  fitted versions

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3446/3886521718_ab8b025a28_b.jpg

Hope this helps.

Cheers.
R.D.
 
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