Author Topic: Anyone know anything about the JE piston (part number Z91433)  (Read 6409 times)

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stickyfox

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It's really nice-looking and I've heard good things about it, but I have it here in my hand and I cannot tell front from back. There isn't a slot cut into it like my factory piston, and the data sheet says nothing about front vs. back. The pin offset is not noted on the data sheet either. Only evidence I have of front vs. back is the JE emblem, forge number, and part number.

I've got time; I still need to do the bottom half, so I'll call JE next week, but I am dying to know if anyone out there has the answer to this.


Reelmaster

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Hi Stickyfox. The J.E. Piston seems to work O.K. here Down-Under in Australia & N.Z. where they are made ,although some users have suffered form Seizure even with 0.005"to 0.0055" skirt clearance, at low mileage  I would give serious consideration to the ACE Piston which has received a great acceptance from Top Engine Builders & Engineers who have had access to same, I look forward to installing one in my up & coming Road Racer& will run 0.0055" skirt clearance.I also set up  the Piston in the Miling Machinel & Drilled Oil Ports 1 in both side of the Gudgeon Pin Boss's  from underneath  the top of each hole was opened up with a Centre Drill    as they don't exist in the Original-- I also cut 2 very shallow slots( opposing )with a small Ball Nosed Miling Cutter inside the boss's bore for the full Lenght to ensure guaranteed Lubrication to the Gudgeon, I will probably run 0.001' clearance in the Little End Bronze bush  The Forged Conrod Steel has been modified for better Lube supply to the Gudgeon Pin ( Harley Davidson uses this system on their Pistons.)

Best Regards. Jack.

Best Regards Jack.


stickyfox

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Alas, I have already spent the money and had the cylinder bored to fit the piston. The guy who did the work warned me that the specified .003 clearance was probably not enough and told me he'd bored it out "a little more." He's got a shop full of RE's, BSA's, and Bonnies, and a loyal customer base who are riding more frequently than not so I figure he knows what he's doing. This bike has not been broken in at all, so I will definitely be careful with it when it's all back together.

Any idea how to find the intake side?


ace.cafe

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Alas, I have already spent the money and had the cylinder bored to fit the piston. The guy who did the work warned me that the specified .003 clearance was probably not enough and told me he'd bored it out "a little more." He's got a shop full of RE's, BSA's, and Bonnies, and a loyal customer base who are riding more frequently than not so I figure he knows what he's doing. This bike has not been broken in at all, so I will definitely be careful with it when it's all back together.

Any idea how to find the intake side?

Well, I hope he bored/honed it out to .006", because that's what that piston is gonna need.

The .003" clearance is for an OEM cast piston, and that forged piston will sieze up tight at .003". Sometimes they even seize at .005" or .0055"..
They are usually safe at about .006". Break it in carefully.

There should be an offset pin in that piston that looks to be about 1/16" off-center or about that, and the offset goes toward the intake side.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2010, 08:14:51 pm by ace.cafe »
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stickyfox

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huh..

Well according to the tech who did it, the .003 spec came from JE, not from RE. Does that mean you need a .003" feeler gauge or that the total difference is .003? Three questions I guess.

But now I have two reasons to call them tomorrow. :)


more:

quick glance at the data sheet says "clearance 0.003" and their website (JE's) says to add this to the piston diameter. So now we're talking a .0015" feeler. Does that sound right to you? Because initially three thousandths sounded tight to me.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2010, 09:59:00 pm by stickyfox »


ace.cafe

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huh..

Well according to the tech who did it, the .003 spec came from JE, not from RE. Does that mean you need a .003" feeler gauge or that the total difference is .003? Three questions I guess.

But now I have two reasons to call them tomorrow. :)


He's giving you automotive clearances. Techs do that all the time.

Feeler gauge?
I don't think so.

The clearance is called out as diameter, and .006"  piston to cylinder wall clearance means that the diameter of the bore is .006" larger than the diameter of the piston at the point on the piston skirt where it is to be measured from front to back.
Your machinist mikes the piston at the proper location, and bores the barrel to a dimension that is .006" larger than the piston mikes out to.
That's why your machinist raised his eyebrows when you told him .003". He knew you were in for trouble with that clearance.

This is nothing to play around with. This is precision stuff that HAS to be right, or your build is doomed before you start it up.

If you want to make it smaller, it's your engine.
If you clearance less than .006", you are asking for trouble, and you'll probably get it.

When you have JE on the phone, ask them if there is an offset, or if there is some way(or need) to tell which way the piston goes on the rod. Maybe they didn't put an offset on those pistons, or maybe they did. Find out the answer, and the way you can tell which way it goes. There are some pistons that can be installed either way around, but you have to know.

I do Bullet performance modifications for a living, and work with forged pistons every day.
If any forged piston is put in a Bullet, the smallest clearance that I've seen survive with any of them is .0055",  and most need .006" to be safe.

As long as we're on the subject, have your machinist gap the  compression rings to .018" and the oil scraper rings to .016". That will save you the trouble, and you'll know they are right.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2010, 10:25:31 pm by ace.cafe »
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enfield freddy

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JE or JP piston ,,,, just thinking ?
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stickyfox

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It's JE; this part was designed for Classic Motorworks (the proprietors of this site I think?) and is sold up there in the store. It was recommended to me by a shop in NY.

Well, let me back up a little.. I'm not new to mechanic work. I was factory-trained to repair M1 tanks and Kawasaki motorcycles. I've also rebuilt many hydraulic servos with much tighter clearances than any motor. I've done many top-end jobs before, just on Japanese bikes. Things "today" are a lot more straightforward. I have never seen a bike with this little skirt clearance, and this is one reason I want all the info before I proceed. My opinion on reliability is that there are other things, like ring gap and overtightening things, that more commonly doom engines to failure than skirt clearance.

So while I get the feeling you've thrown up your hands by now and set your stopwatch to measure how long it takes me to post "well I've seized up the motor," I really am paying attention and I knew what I was getting into before I pulled off the first BSW nut.

By "feeler," what I meant was, is the clearance .003 on each side? or on one side? According to JE's website, this total clearance (which I realize you would measure with a mic and a bore gauge, which I don't have, but at this level of precision it can certainly be done with feelers, which I do have) should be .003. The gap was set as well, to whatever it says in the  manual. Your figure is right in the middle of Snidal's range and I certainly intend to check it before installing, as that's my habit, but I assume this guy uses a similarly appropriate figure.

By the way, it's Steve at M&S in Schenectady. He's been working on these things forever and I have every reason to believe he knows his stuff. And I didn't give him the numbers. He gave me the numbers off of the JE data sheet, then raised his eyebrow.

His exact quote was, "the spec is .003, but I'm not comfortable with that so I made it a little more." He could have meant "over twice as much," but wanted to save me the worry, not realizing that I'm the type of guy who worries about figures less if they have more digits of precision.

Re the piston.. best I can do is put the pin in it and measure the outside dimension from the pin to the skirt, and it's exactly the same on this piston. I can measure no offset at all. If it's supposed to be as much as 1/16 it is definitely not there.

So I guess I've got a couple of phone calls to make today.


mbevo1

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I had the same question when I went to install mine last winter...

Called JE and they told me the piston was symetrical all around... be interesting to see if you get the same answer... :o

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan
'07 Classic - Stumpy
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ace.cafe

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It's JE; this part was designed for Classic Motorworks (the proprietors of this site I think?) and is sold up there in the store. It was recommended to me by a shop in NY.

Well, let me back up a little.. I'm not new to mechanic work. I was factory-trained to repair M1 tanks and Kawasaki motorcycles. I've also rebuilt many hydraulic servos with much tighter clearances than any motor. I've done many top-end jobs before, just on Japanese bikes. Things "today" are a lot more straightforward. I have never seen a bike with this little skirt clearance, and this is one reason I want all the info before I proceed. My opinion on reliability is that there are other things, like ring gap and overtightening things, that more commonly doom engines to failure than skirt clearance.

So while I get the feeling you've thrown up your hands by now and set your stopwatch to measure how long it takes me to post "well I've seized up the motor," I really am paying attention and I knew what I was getting into before I pulled off the first BSW nut.

By "feeler," what I meant was, is the clearance .003 on each side? or on one side? According to JE's website, this total clearance (which I realize you would measure with a mic and a bore gauge, which I don't have, but at this level of precision it can certainly be done with feelers, which I do have) should be .003. The gap was set as well, to whatever it says in the  manual. Your figure is right in the middle of Snidal's range and I certainly intend to check it before installing, as that's my habit, but I assume this guy uses a similarly appropriate figure.

By the way, it's Steve at M&S in Schenectady. He's been working on these things forever and I have every reason to believe he knows his stuff. And I didn't give him the numbers. He gave me the numbers off of the JE data sheet, then raised his eyebrow.

His exact quote was, "the spec is .003, but I'm not comfortable with that so I made it a little more." He could have meant "over twice as much," but wanted to save me the worry, not realizing that I'm the type of guy who worries about figures less if they have more digits of precision.

Re the piston.. best I can do is put the pin in it and measure the outside dimension from the pin to the skirt, and it's exactly the same on this piston. I can measure no offset at all. If it's supposed to be as much as 1/16 it is definitely not there.

So I guess I've got a couple of phone calls to make today.

.003" at front and .003" at back, total of .006"
Measured at the largest diameter you can find on the skirt from front-to-back. Usually this is not far below the rings.

Sounds like you have a handle on it.

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stickyfox

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I haven't gotten a hold of anyone yet but they're out west a bit so I'll try later in the day. But I see where this is coming from. I looked up the linear coe for aluminum and iron. This piston theoretically expands by six thousandths over 100 C. The bore expands only three. But the bore is air-cooled, and the piston is not, so there is definitely a temperature at which the piston no longer fits in the bore, and I can imagine it being one that's attainable under normal operating conditions, especially in Florida, where I plan on moving eventually.

I learned something else as an engineer, besides how to look up and use basic physics formulas, and that is, if you want to know how to put a motor together correctly, don't ask the engineer who designed it! Ask the hot rod mechanic who fixes up the street racers' motors. I am not opposed to the idea of boring this cylinder out a little more, even if it costs me more money. More to follow after I've spoken to JE and Steve, and gotten some actual measurements.

After speaking to JE:

I talked to a motorcycle tech a few minutes ago. He confirmed that the piston is symmetrical, and staunchly maintained that .0035 is the correct clearance. He did not think that there was any risk of seizure and claimed to have set up motorcycle pistons at .0025 or even less. I appreciate the unique nature of the iron barrel motor, so I can still be skeptical. I asked him what he thought about .006 or more; he said, "you can if you want, it's just going to rattle around in there."

Do you suppose the lack of an offset has anything to do with the clearance requirements? Has anyone seen a JE piston lock up in an Enfield motor before?

« Last Edit: July 19, 2010, 03:50:25 pm by stickyfox »


72westie

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I will go and ask Steve (our mechanic) as to what clearance we ran, but I think the .006 sounds about right. We put that JE piston through the ringer. You can barely tell that our JE piston started life as a JE. 
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72westie

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Ok, I just asked Steve and he was thinking we were closer to .007 or .008.
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ace.cafe

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I haven't gotten a hold of anyone yet but they're out west a bit so I'll try later in the day. But I see where this is coming from. I looked up the linear coe for aluminum and iron. This piston theoretically expands by six thousandths over 100 C. The bore expands only three. But the bore is air-cooled, and the piston is not, so there is definitely a temperature at which the piston no longer fits in the bore, and I can imagine it being one that's attainable under normal operating conditions, especially in Florida, where I plan on moving eventually.

I learned something else as an engineer, besides how to look up and use basic physics formulas, and that is, if you want to know how to put a motor together correctly, don't ask the engineer who designed it! Ask the hot rod mechanic who fixes up the street racers' motors. I am not opposed to the idea of boring this cylinder out a little more, even if it costs me more money. More to follow after I've spoken to JE and Steve, and gotten some actual measurements.

After speaking to JE:

I talked to a motorcycle tech a few minutes ago. He confirmed that the piston is symmetrical, and staunchly maintained that .0035 is the correct clearance. He did not think that there was any risk of seizure and claimed to have set up motorcycle pistons at .0025 or even less. I appreciate the unique nature of the iron barrel motor, so I can still be skeptical. I asked him what he thought about .006 or more; he said, "you can if you want, it's just going to rattle around in there."

Do you suppose the lack of an offset has anything to do with the clearance requirements? Has anyone seen a JE piston lock up in an Enfield motor before?



The offset is mostly for reducing the noise of piston slap when cold, and is not present on all pistons. It is not a requirement, and can be made either way.

Yes, I absolutely have seen JE pistons that have locked up in an Enfield motor. I  don't think there are any brand of piston used in an Enfield that I haven't seen lock up. Cast or forged

Sure, many people have installed pistons in motorcycles at smaller clearances. The OEM Enfield cast piston is set at .003" clearance from the factory. They sometimes seize during break-in, but can survive with very gentle break-in. That's a CAST piston, which has much lower expansion than a forged piston.
Believe me, there have been thousands and thousands of seized pistons in the Bullet over the years, of all brands and types.

And it's not just the piston. The bore moves around from stress risers warping the bore when it gets hot. It changes shape.
And the bore doesn't expand .003". It might expand .002" maybe, but tests in ovens showed it to barely expand more than .001" at 350*F.
If you really do your bore right, bored and honed with the barrel torqued onto torque plates, with a really good job, and a forged piston from any maker out there, you MIGHT be able to run at .0055" clearance if you're lucky. All of my proprietary brand pistons out there are clearanced at .0055" or greater, in ALLOY finned barrels with iron liners in them, and they all survived except one, which was in an all cast iron barrel. That report came in yesterday. Yes, even my piston has now seized in one application, and it previously had a perfect record of no failures. No piston is immune to what the Bullet can put it thru

If you like to listen to hot-rod mechanics who built up the street racer motors, that's me. I make some of the hottest Bullets out there. I don't just wrench on them, I design the parts.

The Bullet engine holds heat. Especially in the piston. The piston IS going to be operating at way over 100* C.  In fact it is going to be over 150*C almost all the time. It's going to expand more than people think.

ALL previous experience with ANY brand of forged piston in the Bullet shows that .006" clearance is where the safe zone is, and no less without being "iffy". My piston gets away with .0055" because it is an exceptionally good design for fighting heat, and it always gets an alloy barrel to help the engine cool better. But that's still only a half-thou less than .006", and I just got a seizure in a cast iron barrel reported yesterday with an .0055" clearance, from a very capable and experienced user. My piston maker says the same thing that it can run at .0035". Not in a Bullet, it don't.

I have one customer who I visited who has a shelf where he keeps his variety of pistons that he's seized in his engine. A  JE was among the line-up. Along with a Hitchcock's piston, and a OEM piston. All toast with less than .006" clearance. Okay, granted that his tuning skills weren't the best I've seen, but still, there they are.

You might be able to push it down to .0055" and cross your fingers. I wouldn't. It won't make noise at .006". I know plenty of people running them at .006" without making slap noises.

And make the ring gaps larger than book specs would say they should be. I use .018"-.020" for the top ring. It gets plenty of heat, and needs room.

The bottom line is that regardless of what an technician or spec sheet says, we have to give this engine what it requires, or sorrow will result. With these bikes and forged pistons, if there  is any doubt about clearance, err toward the large side. It will run fine if it's a touch too big, but it will lock up if it's a touch too small.
Be advised.




« Last Edit: July 19, 2010, 06:03:47 pm by ace.cafe »
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mbevo1

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You might be able to push it down to .0055" and cross your fingers. I wouldn't. It won't make noise at .006". I know plenty of people running them at .006" without making slap noises.

And make the ring gaps larger than book specs would say they should be. I use .018"-.020" for the top ring. It gets plenty of heat, and needs room.

Not an expert, just a consumer...

Mine was honed to .006, top ring at .020, lower two at .018.  No slap noted, workin' fine...

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan
'07 Classic - Stumpy
'10 C5 Military - Sherman