[1 Thump]

Dear Forum,

Planning on taking out the PAV. What do I plug the holes with. Is there an 'app' for that?

Thanks.

[PhilJ]

I found a plug (radiator I think) at NAPA. I don't recall the thread, but you'll have to grind the protruding end to fit. Take the pav threaded end with you, they will match the thread.

[Ice]

Another option

http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/exhaust-pipe-blanking-plug.html

 I have also seen the hole tapped and threaded internally to accept a counter sunk head screw.

[Mick Bailey]

An easy way is to re-use the nut off the end of the PAV hose and use a metal disk on the inside to blank it off when it's threaded back onto the fitting in the cylinder head. If you want to keep the PAV unit intact you can find similar fittings from places that sell hydraulic fittings (that's what I did). Works perfectly.

Don't forget to blank off the carb fitting - a short piece of tubing with a piece of brass or aluminium rod (or small screw) pushed in works OK. If it pops on the overrun after removing the PAV then you've got an air leak somewhere.

BTW, I experimented with removing the PAV without carrying out any other work and it made zero difference. However, removing the hot tube and re-jetting did and you need the PAV removing before you do this.

[UncleErnie]

I have optional header and pipe, so nothing to say there...
The hole in the cylinder;  I matched the threads to a short bolt about 1/2 long and Loc-tited it in there. 
The gear box breather I couldn't figure out, so I just cut the hose and used that black high-temp silicone to hold the properly sized bolt in there.  Eh- what the heck. It looks OK...
Engines are shipped with plugs blocking everything.  I got one just the right size to cap the nub on the carb.  That's a tough one though.   Tractor Supply might have something.  Otherwise call around to mechanics to see if you can get any they take off of engines they get in.

All this includes removal of the yuck can under the seat, of course.

[1Blackwolf1]

  The store here sells a blsnking plug for the iron barrel that also works to plug the hole on the side of the cylinder head on the AVL engine.  Get a pack of vacuum caps from any auto store to plug the hose connection on the intake manifold and the timming chest.  I used a small one over the carb flange and a medium sized one to cover the one on the timing chest.

[Philbomoog]

I saw a post where some one had used a bicycle presta valve cap to seal  the carburetor tube. I would think that a bit of JB Weld and a self tapping screw would work ok too.

Are you planning to do any re-jetting after PAV removal?

[1 Thump]

I am just trying to remove stuff that is not 'required'. I don't think it will need rejetting, but will see how it does.

[Ice]

  When simply shelving the PAV re jetting should not be needed.
 

[clamp]

I removed Pav valve,catalytic  and all the exhaust crap,--and the needle up to its highest.
    At full throttle it looses power until I back off a tad --obviously I need a bigger main but driving like that is rare so I don't care.

   It pulls great, much better than before.

[Philbomoog]

Finally got rid of it after 7000 miles.
Found a sump plug on ebay. M16 size with 1.5mm pitch (fine thread) to plug the big hole next to the spark plug, I think its a Renault part.
I left the thin hose on the carb in place (its hardly visible) and simply blocked the other end with RTV sealant and a set screw, tucking it neatly away under the tank.
Nut/bolt/RTV combination to block the hole in the air filter case and the big air hose is now in my spares box.

It could be a combination of my imagination and fine weather but it seems to run better.
No carb fiddling necessary.