Stability on a bike should increase with straight line speed, unless the geometry is way off, or there is another factor upsetting the straightness if you will. I don't think the geometry is that far off.
The geometry doesn't need to be off, just inadequate for the speed. Long trail, better high speed, short trail, easier flickability into turns. All the REs are short trail bikes. This is also the reason choppers got long forks. The increased trail was much better for straight line stability at high speeds.You would be surprised how little of a difference you need to make to notice. It's common for some sport bikes to move the fork tubes up in the triple clamps a little bit. 1/4" can make a bike amazingly better at turning, sometimes even dangerously so since high speed stability suffers.All that said, changing tires is a much cheaper way to go about things. Again, tire sizes and profiles can make a huge difference. And as mentioned, tires are cheaper than wheel swaps.Again, I don't think you should necessarily stop moving forward with the bushings, just putting these options in too.Scott
The weights? I dunno. The tire itself already weighs much more and is further out on the rim than weights would be providing for higher angular momentum. And you think your problem is at the rear. Will it really matter? I've also never seen anyone make a motorcycle wheel heavier for better performance or handling.All the other stuff sounds really good.Scott
Certainly worth trying, but if I recall correctly, weight contributes to angular momentum and the gyroscopic vector in proportion to the square of it's distance from the center of rotation. So just buying a heavier style of tire would be way more effective than weights since the outer heavy skin of the tire weighs more and is further from the center. Also, making wheels lighter is generally done because while it takes a linear amount of force to accelerate the chassis in a straight line, accelerating the wheels in rotation up to the same speed takes roughly 4 times the amount of energy. I think there's another formula with a squared factor in it but I don't recall if offhand. Also, the gyroscopic force created by a wheel makes the force required to turn the bars grow exponentially with speed. You can use the mildest counter steering inputs to great effect at slow speeds but racers really need to work to turn a bike that's moving at 150-200mph.There have really been vast improvments in the understanding of how and why a motorcycles handle the way they do in the last 20 years. Fork rake, wheel weight, wheel diameter, and so many other things play a part but trail is really one of the strongest factors. In fact a bicycle or motorcyle stays upright on it's own mostly because of trail, not gyroscopics. I believe there was an experimental rig built with counter rotating gyros to cancel the gryo force of the wheels, still totally ridable because of trail. Without cutting and rewelding the frame or making big fork mods it's hard to modify trail. The easiest thing to do is change tires or suspension heights which may have a smaller effect but still has some.All that said, there are things to keep in mind. Physics is often non-intuitve. This is a theoretical discussion of a single element that may or may not be the cause of a real motor bike that is a complex collection of moving systems. Sometimes something that makes no sense in theory fixes a problem. You could probably get to the root of why but it's often not worth figuring out.Wow! And you thought it was deep before!As you said, a few dollars to see what happens. I just have an ingrained need to know why. Ignore me at your leisure Scott
WOW !!!!!! HEAVEY!!!!, I think from now on it's ProfessorScotty. LOL.
I second the motion All in favor say aye All kidding aside, my sincerest thanks for providing more useful education in that one post than four years of high school science class.
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