Author Topic: What did you do to your Royal Enfield today?  (Read 1839292 times)

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Bmadd34

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Reply #7605 on: July 14, 2018, 05:31:38 pm
Used the stock seat that I no longer use as a test subject for the reupholstering material I chose. What do you guys think?
« Last Edit: July 14, 2018, 05:35:26 pm by Bmadd34 »
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Rattlebattle

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Reply #7606 on: July 14, 2018, 05:38:43 pm
Today I refitted the EFI having used a Hitchcock’s carb conversion for the last two years. Why? Well, I had become aware lately of a knocking noise just off idle. This and the issues I’ve had with vibration made me wonder if the ignition timing is right throughout the rev range with the later H carb conversion. In other words, though it fuels nicely with the Amal Concentric I’ve always been a bit suspicious about what happens to the ignition timing with the later conversion. The original one, which cost a lot more, came with a new generator rotor and ECU as well as all the carb mounting hardware and cables. This suggests to me that it had a new ignition map. With the later one it’s the same rotor and ECU as standard. So, does the ignition timing retard at tickover the have a nice advance curve or is in just fixed at full advance? I do wonder.
Anyway, having refitted the EFI, I started the engine, being somewhat surprised to find that the MIL went out :). Joy was short lived as I noticed fuel spraying from the pump joint. After sorting this with a better fuel clip I tried again. Success; it even ticked over nicely. Went for a ride and found that it was a lot livelier. This is partly down to the faster acting throttle. (With the H kit you use the same twistgrip. With an Amal this results in quite a gentle throttle opening as the drum is a bit too small to lift the slide in one twist of the wrist). Against this, there was too much slop in the EFI twin cables - adjusted when I got home.
I summary I don’t think I’d recommend the “Mark II” conversion kit. Whilst the fuelling is as good as you can tune the carb ( mine was fine as supplied) to me there’s a question mark over what exactly happens with the ignition timing. The exhaust I now have on my C5 is the road legal stainless one supplied by Hitchcock’s. It has a removable baffle but I prefer mine with the baffle. I imagine like this the back pressure is similar to the standard exhaust, though it’s a lot lighter, looks better and is better made. I doubt I’ll refit the carb unless an expensive bit of the EFI packs up.
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Subbu-500

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Reply #7607 on: July 14, 2018, 06:34:39 pm
Had the second set of sprockets and chain replaced on my 2014 B5 today at a little over 40k kms on the odo... while the drive sprocket was not so bad, the rear was not a pretty sight.... A total of 11 casualties.. ;D... Also changed the oil while at it as I didn't really like the mechanic's suggestion of filtering the same oil and pouring it back in... It was all black anyways...
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AmBraCol

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Reply #7608 on: July 14, 2018, 11:12:44 pm
Used the stock seat that I no longer use as a test subject for the reupholstering material I chose. What do you guys think?

Is that gator or croc?  Looks good by itself, how does it look on the bike?  (hint, hint)
Paul

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Bmadd34

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Reply #7609 on: July 15, 2018, 12:13:15 am
Is that gator or croc?  Looks good by itself, how does it look on the bike?  (hint, hint)
It is gator. I may never know how it looks on my C5 because it will probably never go back on it.
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Bert Remington

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Reply #7610 on: July 15, 2018, 08:21:42 pm
Installed Hella Amber 60/55W headlight bulb.  At 2900K its way cooler than anything else except maybe carbide lamps.  Pictures are the old Low Beam, new Low Beam and LED DRL when nighttime-only headlight is off.  The DRL is a DOT Fog light that is aimed high which is not apparent in the picture.
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Bert Remington

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Reply #7611 on: July 15, 2018, 08:33:06 pm
As I said earlier, I relocated the rectifier/regulator per TheShaggyDA's post to make room for underseat farkle electronics.  The DC output cable was a bit short so I extended it 6 inches.  I also relocated the engine-side alternator cable so it doesn't interfere with the oil fill cap.
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longstrokeclassic

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Reply #7612 on: July 16, 2018, 10:15:44 pm
Oil, oil filter and relevant O rings changed.  Gauze filter totally clear (as usual) small amount of 'paste' found sitting on top of the larger magnet :) 
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Dantheman

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Reply #7613 on: July 17, 2018, 08:48:53 am
Today I refitted the EFI having used a Hitchcock’s carb conversion for the last two years. Why? Well, I had become aware lately of a knocking noise just off idle. This and the issues I’ve had with vibration made me wonder if the ignition timing is right throughout the rev range with the later H carb conversion. In other words, though it fuels nicely with the Amal Concentric I’ve always been a bit suspicious about what happens to the ignition timing with the later conversion. The original one, which cost a lot more, came with a new generator rotor and ECU as well as all the carb mounting hardware and cables. This suggests to me that it had a new ignition map. With the later one it’s the same rotor and ECU as standard. So, does the ignition timing retard at tickover the have a nice advance curve or is in just fixed at full advance? I do wonder.
Anyway, having refitted the EFI, I started the engine, being somewhat surprised to find that the MIL went out :). Joy was short lived as I noticed fuel spraying from the pump joint. After sorting this with a better fuel clip I tried again. Success; it even ticked over nicely. Went for a ride and found that it was a lot livelier. This is partly down to the faster acting throttle. (With the H kit you use the same twistgrip. With an Amal this results in quite a gentle throttle opening as the drum is a bit too small to lift the slide in one twist of the wrist). Against this, there was too much slop in the EFI twin cables - adjusted when I got home.
I summary I don’t think I’d recommend the “Mark II” conversion kit. Whilst the fuelling is as good as you can tune the carb ( mine was fine as supplied) to me there’s a question mark over what exactly happens with the ignition timing. The exhaust I now have on my C5 is the road legal stainless one supplied by Hitchcock’s. It has a removable baffle but I prefer mine with the baffle. I imagine like this the back pressure is similar to the standard exhaust, though it’s a lot lighter, looks better and is better made. I doubt I’ll refit the carb unless an expensive bit of the EFI packs up.
As far as I was aware, on a Euro 3 Enfield, the ignition timing is only based on VR from the crank and is not load dependent from the TPS sensor. So in theory, ignition timing remains the same whether the EFI system or a carb is fitted as the inputting signal has not changed on either setup. 


AmBraCol

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Reply #7614 on: July 18, 2018, 03:24:24 am
Not much, just cleaned a bird's turd off the speedometer and another off the tank.  Cleaned the chain, lubed and adjusted it.  Ready to roll again tomorrow.
Paul

2015 Royal Enfield Rumbler 500


Subbu-500

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Reply #7615 on: July 18, 2018, 10:37:03 am
The stock replica (well almost) exhaust i had ordered, arrived today just as i was about to leave for work. Looked neately packed but could not unbox it. Can't wait to get back home and fit it on the B5...It is made by a local manufacturer names "Swagman" and this model is even called the Replica. I got it because they claim it is semi-freeflow and is only marginally louder than the stock exhause which is what i want. Every other aftermarket exhaust in India are very very loud for my liking.. Hope this is as per claims. Will update once it goes on.
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Subbu-500

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Reply #7616 on: July 19, 2018, 11:51:07 am
So this is how the new Exhaust looks (even the heat shield goes on it  :) ). Pretty close to the stock so i guess the name "Replica" is justified. Please ignore the fact that the stock exhaust looks really dirty...it has been raining every day for the past few weeks here. Coming to the performance, i did not really feel a big improvement but i think the low end torque is better than stock. What i like the most is that it is not annoyingly loud . It is barely any louder than stock below 35/40 kmph and post that it is nicely bassy...good buy i suppose
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Richard230

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Reply #7617 on: July 20, 2018, 09:23:08 pm
My granddaughter will be studying at the Freie University in Berlin for the next year to complete her German language major.  Her dad accompanied her to Berlin and will be returning home on Monday. So they are both walking around Berlin to check the place out before he leaves and she starts school.  He just sent me this photo of a Royal Enfield 350 Bullet that he saw parked in the street.

I just realized that this is an "iron barrel", not a UCE, and should have been posted in that forum.  :-[  So I have.  ;)
« Last Edit: July 21, 2018, 02:03:01 pm by Richard230 »
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Blairio

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Reply #7618 on: July 23, 2018, 04:39:47 am
I looked over Electra in preparation for her annual MOT (Ministry of Transport) test tomorrow. In checking over all the lights I remembered that I had replaced the 'tiger eye' and pilot light  incandescent bulbs with LEDs, and they look hideous - a nasty blue / white, instead of the nice warm (and ineffective) amber glow that Lucas (Prince Of Darkness) kit used to give off.

I can live with the pilot light (it is after all pretty bright and help me be seen) but I am really going to have to do something about those tiger eye bulbs.  They suck. Anyone know where I could source 'warm' LED replacements?


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Reply #7619 on: July 23, 2018, 08:10:17 am
Hi Blairio,

When I did my full LED replacement, I too hated the blue/bright white options on the Enfield - didn't suit her at all.

eBay is a good option for those bulbs - I bought mine from here

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F181879598828

But search your usual LED stockists for warm white ba9s, and something will come up

www.classiccarleds.co.uk
www.superbrightleds.com

Here's a picture of my B5, with all the lights changed to LED. The difference is substantial, but still keeping the warmer, classic, look.