Author Topic: What did you do to your Royal Enfield today?  (Read 1813190 times)

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9fingers

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Reply #7635 on: August 19, 2018, 05:20:43 pm
I ordered the 7" conversion, actually about a week ago....not here yet. Since my crash damaged my inner and outer headlight ring and cracked the glass, this was a perfect time to do it. I did get a Sylvania bulb from Amazon. Plugged in my new tender and got the battery back up to snuff. Started it and just listened, since I can't ride it for another 2 or 3 weeks, according to the ortho doc. Think I will order an armored jacket to go with it in case another deer hits me..........Waiting on more parts from my dealer.
9fingers
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Fragman

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Reply #7636 on: August 20, 2018, 12:26:59 am
Used the stock seat that I no longer use as a test subject for the reupholstering material I chose. What do you guys think?

The gator hide looks good  8), but I reckon me eyes would prefer black & me boney arse would prefer sheep skin. ;)
Nothing better than a nice putt on an RE.
It's a serene way to travel at an unhurried pace.

-2013 Classic Maroon-


longstrokeclassic

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Reply #7637 on: August 20, 2018, 10:08:08 pm
Sadly I've advertised it for sale.
It developed a sporadic fueling fault last ride out and I do not wish to invest any of my time required to solve it and have hopefully priced it accordingly to ensure its sale to someone who can.

I will definitely miss it but as the old saying goes - life's too short for some things and my Enfield has just dropped into this category.


edit - Found a logged CPS fault (6 long & 6 short) - disconnected the connector where it comes out of the right hand casing, sprayed it with contact cleaner and remade the connection and then went for a ride. Bike ran perfectly with no faults logged and no 'fueling' problems.


« Last Edit: August 21, 2018, 05:28:59 pm by portisheadric »


longstrokeclassic

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Reply #7638 on: August 21, 2018, 05:33:44 pm
Sadly I've advertised it for sale.
It developed a sporadic fueling fault last ride out and I do not wish to invest any of my time required to solve it and have hopefully priced it accordingly to ensure its sale to someone who can.

I will definitely miss it but as the old saying goes - life's too short for some things and my Enfield has just dropped into this category.


edit - Found a logged CPS fault (6 long & 6 short) - disconnected the connector where it comes out of the right hand casing, sprayed it with contact cleaner and remade the connection and then went for a ride. Bike ran perfectly with no faults logged and no 'fueling' problems.

However I [made a mistake perhaps and] took a lightweight Japanese sportsbike out on test this morning and forgot how scalpel sharp the handling was and how good good suspension can be so despite the B5 now behaving it's still got to go.
Took what could be a a last photo - not brilliant one but it's not that important.
« Last Edit: August 21, 2018, 05:43:07 pm by portisheadric »


Fragman

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Reply #7639 on: August 23, 2018, 02:48:29 am
I gave me we beasty a chain lube and wipe down then went fer a ride around the area. Clearest day in a week as far as
the wildfire smoke has been, but as I type this, a fresh pile of smoke is now filling the air in me zone due to breezes from
offshore.

The Geoengineered global assault on our biosphere must end now, or we all will soon be ended. >:(
Nothing better than a nice putt on an RE.
It's a serene way to travel at an unhurried pace.

-2013 Classic Maroon-


Carlsberg Wordsworth

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Reply #7640 on: August 24, 2018, 07:47:24 pm
Well first of all, good work on calming the forum change down Brother Rhett (hope I'm correct)

But today, before getting caught in the rain, I thought she sounded a bit different today. Sounds like she's blowing somewhere (ooer).

I put my hand down to the front and rear join and it's blowing a gale.

So I have a look and this has obviously been going on for a lot longer than I ever realised.

No wonder I could sometimes smell petrol fumes, the mileage had decreased as well as the top end.

New EFI silencer ordered. I've put this into the 'I'll fix this one day' parts bin for now :D


Rattlebattle

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Reply #7641 on: August 25, 2018, 02:18:12 pm
Refitted my Hitchcock's carb conversion. I originally fitted this about two years ago, then in a fit of misguided curiosity last month I thought I'd see if I could refit the EFI. This I did without difficulty and was somewhat surprised when the engine started and ran fine and the MIL showed no faults. (Odd, to me at any rate, since there were  only a couple of sensors connected for the last two years. I would have thought that loads of faults would have been stored). Anyway, all was well for a month or so, then recently it began to suffer (again) from a bout of the jitters. Basically it would misfire on larger throttle openings until the engine was quite warm, after which it ran fine.

This was the sort of issue that caused me to fit a carb in the first place, so I decided to refit the carb and leave behind all the hassle. Second time around I refitted the carb in less than 3 hours. Pressed the starter and lo and behold! it ticked over slowly and reliably and ran well. I'll keep the EFI bits to refit when I sell the bike but really it has been nothing but a right royal PITA on my bike. The luck of the draw probably but I've decided I don't need the hassle. BTW, did you know that nothing electrical works if you have removed the headlight rim, which I did to disable the MIL light which would otherwise be permanently on without most of the EFI sensors removed? It seems it provides an earth, probably to the ignition switch. As soon as I refitted the rim to the light everything was then operational. Go figure...

Next time I feel the urge to try again with the EFI (unless to sell the bike) I've asked her indoors to beat me on the head with a broom handle to knock some sense into me.

Maybe those who try loads of things trying to source a fault with the EFI and get nowhere might like to take note: just chuck it in the bin and fit a carb conversion. Then you can just ride yer bike. :)
Sic se res habet: fractum est...


longstrokeclassic

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Reply #7642 on: August 25, 2018, 06:07:39 pm
Hi, does the conversion require any additional sensors other than the one for the down pipe?
« Last Edit: August 25, 2018, 06:11:03 pm by portisheadric »


longstrokeclassic

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Reply #7643 on: August 25, 2018, 06:17:51 pm
 Hi Rattlebattle,
 Did the conversion require any additional sensors other than the one for the down pipe?

« Last Edit: August 25, 2018, 10:21:10 pm by portisheadric »


Rattlebattle

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Reply #7644 on: August 25, 2018, 11:03:30 pm
No extra sensors needed; in fact those relating to the fuelling side (eg TPS, MAP) are disconnected.
Sic se res habet: fractum est...


Bert Remington

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Reply #7645 on: August 26, 2018, 07:02:09 pm
I installed second head steady bracket which significantly reduced gas tank vibration and noise.

I moved the intact stock pressed steel head steady (http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/29121) to the right side and fabricated out of unbendable* aluminum plate the left side steady.  I also replaced the rear bolt (the original's threads were damaged from tank vibration) so rear assembly was: bolt; nylon washer; tank bracket; head steady; frame bracket; head steady; tank bracket; nylon washer; nut.  I also added nylon washers to the front assembly.  Before adding the second steady, the tank brackets bent inwards as I was tightening the bolt-nut.  Now they don't.  Tank doesn't rock side-to-side like before and I can run it to redline without hearing that horrible tank buzz.  While the tank was off I ran all the under-tank farkle wiring except PCV and AT-200: total of 22 wires.

* unbendable -- the alloy was so stiff a cold 30 degree bend would shatter but otherwise was very workable.

I also cleaned the chain.  I recommend the Aluminum Grunge Brush (https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Solutions-AGB888-Aluminum-Grunge/dp/B00B1ZJAFO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1535251250&sr=8-4&keywords=grunge+brush) as the plastic ones fall apart after the first use.

The motorcycle's flexi-flyer handling seemed a bit more uncertain than usual so I checked the tire pressure for the first time in 3,500 miles (my bad).  18F 27R so increased to stock 20F 30R.  About two hours later started back to San Diego and rear was wobbly -- 0.  Increased to 36 and waited an hour.  Seemed okay so drove 10 miles to Alpine -- 4.  After three gas stations managed to keep westwards with 23.  Finally at midpoint found Mobil station with great air and inflated to 44.  Made it to San Diego and after 1hr cooling 38.  It was apparent while adding air the leak is from the tube.  I suspect the valve stem area as the stock Avon tire shows no sign of intrusion of any kind.  And I'm thinking San Diego potholes at below stock pressures so will be running higher pressures and checking more often -- I score this one against me.

I've ordered front and rear tubes and rim strips from our forum sponsor; hopefully will arrive by Wednesday so motorcycle will be ready for ride to Barona Drags Saturday.

Rattlebattle -- if you live in SoCal, PM me and I'll ride over and help you with your weird electrical problems.  Your headlight rim issue is a symptom not the disease.
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
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Richard230

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Reply #7646 on: August 26, 2018, 10:33:00 pm
Have you tried loosening and then re-tightening the valve core on your tubes? Sometimes that will fix a slow leak.
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Bert Remington

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Reply #7647 on: August 27, 2018, 04:56:12 am
Richard230 -- I saw bubbles at the bottom of valve stem when adding air but I'll give that a try.  Thanks.

Long-term I've decided on Ride-On products.  Using their calculator (http://www.ride-on.com/calculator.html) I will put 5 oz and 6 oz of Motorcycle Tire Balancer and Sealant in front and rear tires and SCLPV2-BP2 LED Smart Caps on valve stems.  This has been a wake-up call.  I'm too old to recover from an at speed flat tire incident.
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod


Bmadd34

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Reply #7648 on: August 28, 2018, 10:53:58 am
Long-term I've decided on Ride-On products.  Using their calculator (http://www.ride-on.com/calculator.html) I will put 5 oz and 6 oz of Motorcycle Tire Balancer and Sealant in front and rear tires and SCLPV2-BP2 LED Smart Caps on valve stems.  This has been a wake-up call.  I'm too old to recover from an at speed flat tire incident.

I've heard a few guys talking about adding sealant to their tires. I was just wondering, sealant in tubes? does it really help?
When Life hands you lemons, Squeeze them in his eyes and take his wallet.


Richard230

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Reply #7649 on: August 28, 2018, 02:13:35 pm
I've heard a few guys talking about adding sealant to their tires. I was just wondering, sealant in tubes? does it really help?

Not in my very limited experience. Once a tube gets a hole in it it will deflate no matter how much goop is in it. Once that happens the hole will likely tear if you keep riding, really putting the end to that tube. But the goop will likely slow the deflating which should allow you to get off the road more safely so that the tube can be replaced or patched before it does tear.

However, I bet that stuff will cause the tire and tube to run hotter than it would without it and that will reduce the life of the tire. Tires with tubes run hotter than tubeless tires as the tube will tend to reduce the tire's ability to shed heat when being ridden at high speeds and having slimy goop inside the tube is only going to add to its overall insulation. (At least that is the way I see it.)  ;)
2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM Duke 390, 2002 Yamaha FZ1