[Carlsberg Wordsworth]

Bit too late to edit my original post but to clarify the bike now pulls the larger front sprocket noticeably easier around town when in traffic.
Haven’t taken the bike over 60 and have no intention of doing but I doubt the higher gearing on what is otherwise a stock bike has done the top end any favours.

Are we saying an 18t is better for the UK perhaps? I've often thought I have to constantly go up and down the box, or feels like it anyway in town. I think I might go up a tooth next chain and sprocket change.

[Blairio]

Yesterday was a belter weather-wise, so I stuck my Electra/G5 EFI on the driveway in the sunshine and set about fitting my new Hitchcocks high level exhaust, plus alloy RHS side panel. This takes the place of the airbox cover, and side panel, and is a lovely piece of alloy.

PART No. 91100
EXHAUST SYSTEM, HIGH LEVEL, EFI MODELS

AIR FILTER REPLACEMENT LID, ALLOY, ELECTRA EFI   
Part No: 91101

Fitting was straightforward, although I do wish the plug for the 02 sensor lead was not buried under the petrol tank.  What a faff - removing  the petrol tank just to unclip a 4-way connector! However things went smoothly otherwise and the fit and finish of the new exhaust system is great. My Electra's EFU unit seems to prefer the system over the previous (standard Hitchcocks EFI) one, as tickover even when cold seems more steady. This system has more of a baffle than my last one, so perhaps it is down to that.

I will post a picture when I  have a few moments.

The only issue is with the kickstart. I have moved it forward a few splines so that when folded away it sits near-vertical now, where the exhaust pipe runs nearest to the barrel. Even then, the kickstart rubber wants to sit against the hot pipe. My 'cludge' is to have a wee spacer (half a washer held in by a cable tie) tucked into the pivot so the kickstart does not fully close on its pivot. Not ideal, but it works, and the kickstart is still held closed on its sprung ball bearing detent.  I have emailed Hitchcocks to ask what the recommended solution is. Perhaps a different profile of kickstart? Also confusing was the inclusion of 2 exhaust gaskets with the system.  I only needed one to achieve a good seal.  Should I have used both, or is one a spare?  Who knows......
 

[JVS]

Yesterday was a belter weather-wise, so I stuck my Electra/G5 EFI on the driveway in the sunshine and set about fitting my new Hitchcocks high level exhaust, plus alloy RHS side panel. This takes the place of the airbox cover, and side panel, and is a lovely piece of

Any pics? 

And yes, you ideally only need to use one exhaust gasket. However, if it's the old paper/cardboard type one, it's prone to breaking down in the first few 100 mi/km because of the requirement of tightening the header bolts. These bolts might get loose after your first few initial rides - so remember to check the tightness. If they do get loose, you'll be re-tightening them every now and then. The force of the header opening starts to pinch/shatter the paper gasket. The next time you remove the exhaust pipe, you'll see that the gasket is damaged / powdery on one side where the force was the greatest.

For this reason, I was using two paper gaskets for a while so that the outer one can get damaged but the inner one stays OK. However, the new UCEs come with a copper crush gasket - much better! So I reverted to that and now I'm only using one copper gasket. As long as you don't have a leak at the cylinder head, the one paper gasket is also fine.

[Bert Remington]

I changed RE spark plug wire and cap to MSD (see My...booster topic) and checked NGK BPR6ES status (see UCE Cams topic).  I also did one other thing but I'll report on that Friday evening with pictures (hint https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,22737.0.html).

[longstrokeclassic]

Are we saying an 18t is better for the UK perhaps? I've often thought I have to constantly go up and down the box, or feels like it anyway in town. I think I might go up a tooth next chain and sprocket change.

I swapped over to the 18 specifically to lose the half link needed with the 17 so I could use a better quality (102 link) rear chain; the original diamond brand chain needed replacing after only 7250, the Renolds after 19,560 miles.
 My problem was the 'go faster' exhaust system I'd fitted - which wasn't fitted with the intention of going faster but to remove the problem of the original long silencer hitting a wall on a tight bend during some required rear garden maneuvers -  was that it was noticeably missing some oomph down at the bottom end compared with the stock set up so riding in stop start traffic with the higher gear was frustrating.  Putting the original down pipe and silencer back on resolved this and the bike is certainly more relaxed at the speeds I ride it at.

[AmBraCol]

Replaced the original chain and the rear brake pads.  The front pads look great, a reflection on my tendency to use the rear brake on downhills.  The original chain was probably good for a lot more KM's, but how many was the question.  It was needing tightened every few hundred km's instead of every 1,000 - 1,500 when first got the bike. Stretching that fast is not something I care for so figured the $30 or so was cheap insurance.

[Carlsberg Wordsworth]

Thanks portishedric.

I want to try and stay in a lower gear without it revving too high but the speed is too low for the next gear. I think that's what I mean at any rate and hope that it makes sense so I think the 18T would help here.

If that's the case, that'll be next on the list come next chain/sprocket change.

[Blairio]

Yesterday was a belter weather-wise, so I stuck my Electra/G5 EFI on the driveway in the sunshine and set about fitting my new Hitchcocks high level exhaust, plus alloy RHS side panel. This takes the place of the airbox cover, and side panel, and is a lovely piece of alloy.

PART No. 91100
EXHAUST SYSTEM, HIGH LEVEL, EFI MODELS

AIR FILTER REPLACEMENT LID, ALLOY, ELECTRA EFI   
Part No: 91101

Fitting was straightforward, although I do wish the plug for the 02 sensor lead was not buried under the petrol tank.  What a faff - removing  the petrol tank just to unclip a 4-way connector! However things went smoothly otherwise and the fit and finish of the new exhaust system is great. My Electra's EFU unit seems to prefer the system over the previous (standard Hitchcocks EFI) one, as tickover even when cold seems more steady. This system has more of a baffle than my last one, so perhaps it is down to that.

I will post a picture when I  have a few moments.

The only issue is with the kickstart. I have moved it forward a few splines so that when folded away it sits near-vertical now, where the exhaust pipe runs nearest to the barrel. Even then, the kickstart rubber wants to sit against the hot pipe. My 'cludge' is to have a wee spacer (half a washer held in by a cable tie) tucked into the pivot so the kickstart does not fully close on its pivot. Not ideal, but it works, and the kickstart is still held closed on its sprung ball bearing detent.  I have emailed Hitchcocks to ask what the recommended solution is. Perhaps a different profile of kickstart? Also confusing was the inclusion of 2 exhaust gaskets with the system.  I only needed one to achieve a good seal.  Should I have used both, or is one a spare?  Who knows......

Here are the photos of my 2102 Electra with its new Hitchcocks high level exhaust, complete with alloy air filter cover. The engine seems happier than when I had the standard Hitchcocks EFI exhaust system, and the new system looks ace.

[heloego]

Very nice!

[Narada]

 Riviera Red Electra with extra chrome! I say it looks all 4 aces! 

[tooseevee]

The only issue is with the kickstart. I have moved it forward a few splines so that when folded away it sits near-vertical now, where the exhaust pipe runs nearest to the barrel. Even then, the kickstart rubber wants to sit against the hot pipe. My 'cludge' is to have a wee spacer (half a washer held in by a cable tie) tucked into the pivot so the kickstart does not fully close on its pivot. Not ideal, but it works, and the kickstart is still held closed on its sprung ball bearing detent.  I have emailed Hitchcocks to ask what the recommended solution is. Perhaps a different profile of kickstart? Also confusing was the inclusion of 2 exhaust gaskets with the system.  I only needed one to achieve a good seal.  Should I have used both, or is one a spare?  Who knows......

              Did you resolve your kickstart lever problem? If I had seen this sooner I would have suggested you try the AVL straight lever. It might work fine for you.

               I think they send two gaskets in case you need two. Hitchcocks are straight shooters. I just received my 2nd brand new shiny catalog after the first was received soaking wet shipped directly from the printer and not wrapped for a trip across the big pond and then to Rhode Island. It was ruined. I even offered to pay for the 2nd one and the shipping and they wouldn't hear of it. And it's a really gorgeous catalog.   

[AmBraCol]

Here are the photos of my 2102 Electra with its new Hitchcocks high level exhaust, complete with alloy air filter cover. The engine seems happier than when I had the standard Hitchcocks EFI exhaust system, and the new system looks ace.

Back from the future!  The future looks pretty good!   

[Carlsberg Wordsworth]

I was going to say why the long rear brake arm?

And then it dawned on me that the low exhaust is normally covering it lol.

Looking good, shiny and clean there Blairio!

[Bert Remington]

I wanted a variety of luggage options for my Royal Enfield, ranging from carrying a small Panasonic camera and some maps for scenic day trips to multi-day trips to hauling groceries, all options keeping the "1950's" Royal Enfield look.  I searched this and other forums and perused the CMW, Hitchcock and other stores.  Great fun, especially seeing other owners' choices.

CMW's Burly tank bag was an immediate choice which I purchased and I've enjoyed using.  Perfect for what I wanted.  Highly recommended.

Rear fender racks were a disappointment.  All were steel tubing; all were chrome or black; and none were easily removable.  So a friend and I are building our own (a future post).

That leaves panniers.  Long search short I saw Mulga Bill's picture (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,22737.0.html) and knew that's what I wanted.  So I went to Moto Machines and ordered the C-Bow brackets (https://www.motomachines.com/C-Bow--Royal-Enfield-Bullet-Classic-from-09_p_3258.html#).  Then came bag choices (https://www.motomachines.com/C-Bow-Bags_c_29.html).  Mulga Bill chose the Oval Street Soft Bag Set, very nice with 22L capacity.  I almost ordered the Royster Street Soft Bag Set, also with 22L capacity.  Allow my to digress to explain my choice.

If I stop for more than 5 minutes, someone comes up to tell me how much they like the motorcycle.  It even happens at traffic lights.  I feel my obligations are a mix of motorcycle rider and nostalgia caretaker.  So I'm working hard to keep that "Classic 500" Royal Enfield look while enjoying modern amenities.

For the C-Bow bags, I went with looks over practicality and chose the "large" (11L) Legacy Courier Bags (https://www.motomachines.com/Hepco-Becker-Legacy-Courier-Bag-Set-LL-for-C-Bow-Carrier_p_6193.html).  I covered my eyes as I pushed the PayPal button.  I'll be drinking fewer IPAs and more MGDs for the next year.

My neighbor wasn't home so I parked the motorcycle in his driveway as better background for pictures.  The first two show the bags front and rear (very traditional) and the second two show bags removed (very tidy).  That's my IPA in the upper left, soon to be a memory.  I put a microfiber towel under the Burly bag to keep the magnets from wearing spots in paint.

From my perspective there is a design flaw in the Legacy Courier bags compared to the Street Soft bags: no carrying handle (yeah I know couriers use shoulder straps which do come with the bags).  The leather straps at the top are not sewed down so I'm going to see if I can find some 3/4" hemp rope to fit underneath for handles.  Of course I'll post solution with pictures.

Next post is installation details.

[Bert Remington]

WRT installing the C-Bow brackets:

* Step 1 -- sort out all the parts.
* Step 2 -- toss the spacers and use shorter bolts.
* Step 3 -- ignore the German designers' sequence: attach the front and rear steel pieces to the aluminum C-Bows with the four (per side) bolts lightly tightened to allow adjustment, not sloppy, movement.
* Step 4 -- attach the front piece to the shock stud (for left side, the lift handle is inside the front piece); lightly tighten shock stud nut.
* Step 5 -- tightly tie-wrap the rear piece above the RE fender brace; don't try to hold it by hand, even with your beer-drinking friend's help.
* Step 6 -- drill the appropriate size hole, remove the tie-wrap, and deburr the hole.
* Step 7 -- final tighten rear piece bolt but not too much as you don't want to crack the plastic washer -- the Nylock nut will prevent loosening.
* Step 8 -- final tighten shock stud nut, then the eight C-Bow fasteners.

I forgot to mention in my previous post but the C-Bow bracket itself is a lovely piece of work: cast aluminum, heli-coiled fastener holes, and powder-coated satin black.  The whole bracket kit is well worth the $$s.

The first picture shows the C-Bow with bags installed -- no spacers on front pieces and rear pieces trimmed 1/2" (oops, I didn't mention this before, YMMV).  Second picture shows side view (I substituted black anodized Allen bolts for rear pieces).  Third picture shows the front pieces sans spacers (I substituted stainless Phillips bolts on the C-Bow end for both the front and rear pieces).

In the third picture note the bronze hex bolt to the left of the C-Bow lock slot; there is a matching black hex bolt to the right.  They are the fasteners for my removable rear fender rack.  And that is a future post...