[Ducati Scotty]

I lubed my new one up with thick axle grease.  I get a little wiggle at around 35-40mph but nothing like the wild swings when the old one was worn out.

Scott

[barenekd]

Adjusted the chain. (Since the dealership installed an 18T countershaft sprocket only a few hundred miles ago and did not replace the chain, I don't really think it should have gotten so loose, but it was clanging on the chain guard and not far from jumping off.)

If you have the original chain on your bike, get ride of it now before it destroys you sprockets. It is shot. Those things aren't made for motorcycles! Get a quality o-ring chain and you won't to do any chain adjusting for many miles. I've got over 7000 miles on mine and I haven't had to touch it.

The last time I used the Liquid Wrench Chain Lube

I haven't used Liquid Wrench Chain lube, but most chains lubes get very tacky,and way to sticky for cables. The lithium as probably a better bet for the speedo cable. I wouldn't use the Chain lube in the other cables either.
Who recommended it?
Bare

[Alan LaRue]

I wouldn't use the Chain lube in the other cables either.
Who recommended it?
Bare

I don't remember who, but it was someone on this board!

The original cable was shot pretty quickly using the lithium grease. Would a cable from Dennis Kirk or somewhere in the States be of better quality? I only remember one wacky cable on a car in the 1970s, and I'm sure the car had close to 100,000 miles on it.

[Arizoni]

I don't know that it is the best but shortly after I got my RE I lubricated the speedometer cable with petroleum jelly I got at the drug store. 
Yesterday as a part of my 7500 mile service I pulled the cable and relubricated it with more petroleum jelly.  After 7200 miles is is showing no signs of wear and the speedometer has always given me a smooth, steady reading.

[barenekd]

Back in the good old days I used lithium grease almost exclusively on them and never had a problem. Then I switched to Dri Slide which I'm using now and it works well. The petroleum jelly is probably fine. I have 13,500 on mine and nary a twitch
When you install them make sure it's a straight shot out of the speedo drive to the cable and check for any possible area of possible kinking.
Bare
Bare

[Arizoni]

Today I replaced the front fork oil in my G5.
After I was done I couldn't help but think it really is too bad the C5 (and B5?) don't use these front forks.  They sure make changing the oil easy.
All that needs to be done with the G5 forks is to remove the top cap with a large screw driver and remove the 18mm hex caps from the bottom of the fork legs.

(You new owners of the C5's may not know that you have to remove the entire fork legs to do this simple task.  A major undertaking to say the least.)

Before starting, I did a bit of research and noticed the 2011 Owners Manual says to use "Fork oil" (p.55).  No viscosity or any information is given.
The Service manual says to use SAE 10-30 which the last time I looked is regular engine oil.  It also says to install 265cc + 2.5cc in each leg.

The posts on the forum all seem to think that somewhere around 200cc is the correct amount.

With all this information in mind I bought some Maxima 10 weight Fork Oil and a measured beaker with cc graduations on it.

When I removed the bottom hex cap, one leg drained out 150cc of oil and the other drained 160cc of oil, even after pumping the front fork up and down a few times.

This 155cc average of oil has been working fine but with the forums 200cc recomendation in mind I decided to refill each leg with 180cc of oil.  It seems to be working all right on my short ride I took after finishing but I didn't hit any big bumps either. 
If the fork starts acting like it is bottoming out while riding it a few hundred miles, I'll let you folks know.

[The_Rigger]

Then I switched to Dri Slide which I'm using now and it works well.

I use either Dri-Slide or Tri-Flow on cables exclusively; have done for eons. Both will give superior service.

[The_Rigger]

You new owners of the C5's may not know that you have to remove the entire fork legs to do this simple task.  A major undertaking to say the least.

I wonder if it's possible to drill & tap a drain hole in an appropriate place on the C5 lower fork leg to make fork oil changes easier...  Gonna look deeper into this.

[JVS]

I wonder if it's possible to drill & tap a drain hole in an appropriate place on the C5 lower fork leg to make fork oil changes easier...  Gonna look deeper into this.

I think you can still drain the fork oil from the bottom, but to re-fill, you have to remove the fork legs so that you can open the top bolts below the chrome screw-plugs which can't be done simply because of diameter indifferences. If you open the chrome screw plugs and have a look inside, you'll get what I mean.

As per http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,10813.0.html

[Ice]

I use either Dri-Slide or Tri-Flow on cables exclusively; have done for eons. Both will give superior service.

Good stuff they both are.

 Dry Slide and Tri Flow are not carried local to me and neither is the old Lock Eeze.

 I have been using DuPonts Multi-Use Teflon on clutch and brake cables and pivot points and the Teflon-Sillicone on speedo de-comp and throttle cables. I get then for under six bucks each at Lowes.

[Ducati Scotty]

Arizona, add another 10-20ccs of oil.  I did a friend's G5 with 200cc and he noticed the difference and really liked it.  Less dive and better handling.

And I've never seen a post on any forum where anyone opened a fork and found the spec amount of oil.  Seems it's always less.

Scott

[mattsz]

Scott - you should be asleep at this time on a Sunday morning!

Does the B5 have the same fork as the C5, i.e. removal required to change the oil?

[JVS]

Scott - you should be asleep at this time on a Sunday morning!

Does the B5 have the same fork as the C5, i.e. removal required to change the oil?

Unfortunately, yes Matt, for the B5, we have to remove the fork legs. If you open the top chrome screw, you'll have a dead-end. At least on my 2011 B5 it is. Have a look on yours. I was under the impression that the B5's frame being the same as the older 350 models, it will have a nice spot to re-fill from the top, but nope, not anymore. 

[mattsz]

Unfortunately, yes Matt, for the B5, we have to remove the fork legs. If you open the top chrome screw, you'll have a dead-end. At least on my 2011 B5 it is. Have a look on yours. I was under the impression that the B5's frame being the same as the older 350 models, it will have a nice spot to re-fill from the top, but nope, not anymore. 

Well, mine is a 2011 also, so I guess we're both stuck...

[mattsz]

Forget the bike - I dumped about a quart of dirty oil on the garage floor.  The center stand prevents me from getting my oil-catching bucket under the drain.  Tried a funnel, but it couldn't keep up with the flow and spilled.  Once it starts, you just can't stop it!  What a mess.

By the way, the magnets were pretty clean, and the screen was very clean , except for one nice fish-bone sliver of metal.

Also, ran the bike a bit to get the oil pumping to check for leaks and final level - the oil level in the glass didn't settle right away, so I thought I'd try to tip the bike a bit to look for a change.  Don't worry, it's not going where you think it is... My wrist touched the pipe, right up next to the O2 sensor.  Raised a nice nickel-sized blister, right where my jacket cuff rests.

My bike leaves a trail of pain and suffering behind it...