[scoTTy]

red locktite

Man, that's a heat thing to break that loose.. Blue is bad enough, but at least you can break it loose.. I only use red when I for sure don't plan to undo it..

But that's me.

[ScooterBob]

red locktite

Man, that's a heat thing to break that loose.. Blue is bad enough, but at least you can break it loose.. I only use red when I for sure don't plan to undo it..

But that's me.

You are using too much!! Hahaha!! It's like Brylcreem - just a dab'll do ya! Seriously, tho - You CAN use too much of the stuff .... I "slather" with blue - it'll come loose - I "dab" with red - especially on the little stuff - but I usually USE the red because it can't be beat for holding stuff in place (It actually CAN be beat with GREEN stud and bearing mount - but we won't EVEN go there for an Enfield ... Hahaha!!) the red stuff WILL hold more than the torsional strength of some hardware store bolts. There is a really good article in SAE.org on this .... I paid for it - it's probably free by now .....

[Ice]

red locktite

Man, that's a heat thing to break that loose.. Blue is bad enough, but at least you can break it loose.. I only use red when I for sure don't plan to undo it..

But that's me.

 And me. 

 I take it that you also thoroughly de grease the nuts and bolts threads to remove all traces of oil before the application of thread locking compounds ?

[ScooterBob]

And me. 

 I take it that you also thoroughly de grease the nuts and bolts threads to remove all traces of oil before the application of thread locking compounds ?

That's they recommended way. It's like anything else that has "room for error" - IF you leave the fasteners oily and IF you don't use enough, you MAY not get the holding that you want. This is why I use the red stuff most of the time - there isn't enough "sanitation" in a field repair, usually, to get ALL the "hold" out of the stuff. That and the fact that I ain't gonna FUSS with it that much ..... Hahaha! 

[Blue Ridge Wheeltor]

"As things progress, I've very gradually been converting to stainless steel fasteners. "

Stainless steel in aluminum, have to be careful.

[UncleErnie]

The expert on rusty nuts -

This has only been a couple of items so far, but if you mean "don't over-torque", then no.  I'm very careful about that. 

[Blue Ridge Wheeltor]

The expert on rusty nuts -

This has only been a couple of items so far, but if you mean "don't over-torque", then no.  I'm very careful about that. 

No Mister Know it All, I am referring to galvanic corrosion when using stainless steel in aluminum.

[ScooterBob]

No Mister Know it All, I am referring to galvanic corrosion when using stainless steel in aluminum.

This is a very good point - I think, however that NON-FERROUS Stainless alloys - even when placed with dis-similar metals - offer galvanic corrosion protection. I know that if you put iron pipe and copper together in a boiler / chiller system, it'll rot out 1/2" thick stuff in a year if you don't use dielectric flanges .... It's crazy, I tell ya .... crazy! Any chiller guys out there know the poop on non-ferrous stainless alloy corrosion?? NOW I'm interested ...... 

[mtrueblood]

ScooterBob,
Heat exchangers on a Navy ship 30 years ago.  I remember making sure my enginmen checked the sacrificial anodes (zinc) periodically.  Not really relevant to the original question, but someone mentioned galvanic reaction.

[UncleErnie]

So what is it?  Using stainless fasteners is going to melt holes in my aluminium cases?

[mtrueblood]

Stainless steel fasteners are not going to melt holes in your aluminum cases.  At least, not for quite a while.  The two metals in contact with each other in the presence of moisture (especially salty moisture) will produce a galvanic reaction.  And, the aluminum will the be the anode.  It will be the metal that corrodes.  There's plenty of info on the internet about the process.  Where possible, polymer washers are recommended. 

[Blue Ridge Wheeltor]

If I read this correctly, they claim stainless is ferrous.
Notice the reference to galvanic corrosion.

http://www.inoxgrp.co.uk/pdf%20files/Tech%20sheets/PhysChem.pdf

[Ice]

If I read this correctly, they claim stainless is ferrous.
Notice the reference to galvanic corrosion.

http://www.inoxgrp.co.uk/pdf%20files/Tech%20sheets/PhysChem.pdf

Yup,
 Stainless Steel is still steel,,BUT,,with a higher content of things in it than other steels. Things like nickle and chromium.
For our purposes we needn't worry much if at all.

If we were concerned about a stainless bolt becoming frozen in an aluminum part the big solution would be to Heli-coil the hole.

 Any galvanic reaction would be confined to between the stainless coil and the aluminum .

[Blue Ridge Wheeltor]

Interesting discussion:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212510

[mtrueblood]

wire brushed the rust off, and then painted the nuts with engine enamel

how come I can't upload a picture (only 250KB).  I keep getting this message:
The upload folder is full. Please try a smaller file and/or contact an administrator.