[mtrueblood]

Last Fall, I stopped by a small motorcycle dealer in West Newton, PA.  The owner was interested enough to come out to look at my motorcycle.  He didn't have much good to say.  "I guess your only reason to buy that thing was the price."  I didn't argue with him.  After all, the price was certainly a factor.  The main reason was that I like the way it looks.  Anyway, he started pointing at all the oxidation, and told me I'd never have that problem with a Triumph or a Japanese motorcycle.
I don't know if that's true, but I am definitely noticing a lot of rust.  The most troubling is the rust on the various nuts.  And, the worst of them are a couple of the nuts that (I guess....not being a motorcycle mechanic yet) hold the head onto the block.  The two that are the closest to the spark plug are my primary concern right now. 
Is there anything I can do?  I'm sure it gets pretty hot there, so I don't think anything like wax or oil will stay there long.    Is there some kind of heat-resistant paint I can use on them?  I'm concerned that  they'll become so rusted that I won't be able to remove them, and that I'll end up having to have the engine removed and worked on.
I put a 5/16 nut on the top of the stud to check the size.  It wouldn't screw on.  So, I'm guessing the existing nuts are metric.   Is that true?  Do you know what size?
This is a 2009 Bullet 500 ES.  AVL
All the other rusty nuts I can probably take care of with a wire brush and some lubricant.  Thank you.

[ace.cafe]

You can just wire-brush them off, and spray some hi-temp engine spray paint on them.

Yes, the studs are metric. I'm not sure of the size. Probably M7 or M8, 1.0 or 1.25

[PaulF]

Yup, and a little WD or peneatrating oil to get 'em loose.

Everyone knows my soft spot for the reliability of Japanese motorcycles, but he's dead wrong. You can get rusty fasteners on any machine. Especially given the wet, salty and humid environs of the northeast US. Lord knows, I've had to deal with my share of scraped knuckles and profanity that would make Charles Manson blush on my old Jap machinery.

I dunno about old British bikes. Maybe the reason they never had corroded fasteners is because the entire lower end of the bike was always covered with a fine layer of leaked oil. 

[Chasfield]

Yeah, I think that constant oil mist was a big help with Brit bikes regarding corrosion. I do think that the frame paint depth and hardness on my Bullet are not the best but neither are they the worst. My Honda was certainly no better and a British winter made a mockery of its chrome plating and alloy lacquering.

[UncleErnie]

If some asshat came out and said, "So does your wife chase cars?  Is she house-trained yet?" would you still be listening to anything he said?  I believe I'd have snapped his bra strap before leaving.

You cxan't buy the best pentrating solution because it's too cheap;  1/2 acetone and 1/2 ATF.   Works like you wouldn't believe.

As things progress, I've very gradually been converting to stainless steel fasteners.  I haven't really noticed too many offending bits, though.
Fasteners are 99.9% metric.  When I can't figure out a size, I take the piece to a shop that can tell me.  Asheville Bolt and Screw is close.

[mtrueblood]

Thanks for the replies.  I just got off the phone with Craig at Enfield Motorcycles, and he said much the same thing.  I took a nut to Home Depot.  M8-1.25 is the right size.  PIcked up some enamel paint at Pep Boys.  I'm all set.

I called on another issue.  Maybe I should make this into a new topic, but after 1700 miles, I'm now ordering my fourth speedometer drive (about $80 delivered).  The little gray unit that sits on the right side of the front wheel.  It stopped working today while I was a couple miles from home.  Craig has told me these things are bomb-proof, so there must be some other problem having to do with spacers or torque.  Anyone else have a problem with this?   Thanks.

[Ice]

Three cheers for 50/50 Acetone/A.T.F. !!!

Brass and Stainless bristled tooth brush type brushes and wire wool are great for removing corrosion.

 Riding year round up here in the Pacific Northwest makes corrosion a big concern and a never ending battle for me.
 I have not seen any rust difference as far as brand of bike goes.

 I use WD-40 and automotive wax ( cheap as chips ) in the easy to get to places and  corrosion preventive compounds  ( more costly but longer lasting ) for hard to get to places.

 Any Aviation or Maritime supply house should have a selection of C.P.C's on hand.


 Good on you Sir for being polite to the dealer. Sour grapes types and brand snobs can piss off   I'm afraid I wouldn't have been.

No troubles with my speedometer drive box. Does your cable core spin freely in the cable housing ?

[PaulF]

You cxan't buy the best pentrating solution because it's too cheap;  1/2 acetone and 1/2 ATF.   Works like you wouldn't believe.

Ernie, never thought of that. One question. Will it eat the paint surrounding a fastener or damage any chrome?

[Marrtyn]

I think one of the best products on the market for anti rust protection etc is ACF 50.
This can be sprayed allover, even electrics, except brakes (pads discs shoes etc).
Also very good for anti salt corrosion.
Just "google" it.

[mtrueblood]

Thanks again for your replies wrt the rust.

I'm going to move my speedometer drive problem to a new line.

When I was talking to Craig in Minnesota (?) this morning, I got adequate info for me to deal with the rusty nuts and bolts.  At his suggestion, I went back to HD and bought a few metric acorn nuts to replace the rusty ones near the spark plug.  I've also got the spray paint from Pep Boys.

I told Craig I was a little hesitant to take nuts off that I assume help hold the engine together, and I asked if I needed to break out the torque wrench when I put the new ones on.  He advised me to think like an Indian, and realize that these motorcycles are meant to run where there aren't real roads, bounce in and out of pot holes, and be fixed on the side of the road with a flashlight and a few tools.  "Just make the bolts tight, and call it 'done' " is what I think I heard.  I guess i was being too technical? Too concerned with NSTM compliance?  I don't know.  I don't want to foul anything up that I'll have to pay someone else to fix.
Thanks, again.

[REpozer]

True Blood,
I wipe my RE down often with WD-40 and clean rags. Similar as one would with a fine gun or knife.
The aluminium has no protective coating.
 To keep cost down , I purchased a gallon can of WD-40 and spay bottle.

Seems to be working, but also store mine indoors.

[UncleErnie]

Ernie, never thought of that. One question. Will it eat the paint surrounding a fastener or damage any chrome?

I've always been very careful, using a quite small modeling brush for application.  Now that you ask, though, I think I'm going to find out tomorrow AM.  It will be good to know how sloppy I'm (you're) allowed to be.

As far as the cable goes- are you sure it's breaking at the wheel?  My unit stopped working and I finally figured out it wasn't screwed into the spedometer itself properly.  It take little hands to screw that in.

Torquing head bolts;  You're not riding alone through the Hymilayas.  I found a loose nut where you did and I asked the same question you are- even though I knew the answer, just like you do.  Don't be lazy.  Find TDC and re-torque all your head bolts.  That means taking off the rocker covers.  To do that you need to take the tank off.  In the long run, your bike will return the love and time spent.  I promise.

[UncleErnie]

If you've never taken the rocker covers off before, it can be quit a challenge.  I had to whack mine with a 2x4 and then replace the gaskets after they got tore up.  I just coat the new ones with grease and they've lasted a long time.  There's no pressure in there or anything trying to get out.  The covers are there mostly to keep a little oil from splashing out and to keep dirt out.

[ScooterBob]

Thanks again for your replies wrt the rust.

I'm going to move my speedometer drive problem to a new line.

When I was talking to Craig in Minnesota (?) this morning, I got adequate info for me to deal with the rusty nuts and bolts.  At his suggestion, I went back to HD and bought a few metric acorn nuts to replace the rusty ones near the spark plug.  I've also got the spray paint from Pep Boys.

I told Craig I was a little hesitant to take nuts off that I assume help hold the engine together, and I asked if I needed to break out the torque wrench when I put the new ones on.  He advised me to think like an Indian, and realize that these motorcycles are meant to run where there aren't real roads, bounce in and out of pot holes, and be fixed on the side of the road with a flashlight and a few tools.  "Just make the bolts tight, and call it 'done' " is what I think I heard.  I guess i was being too technical? Too concerned with NSTM compliance?  I don't know.  I don't want to foul anything up that I'll have to pay someone else to fix.
Thanks, again.

Just remember that in India, the engineers don't fix the bikes - it's the little guy beside the road with the set of wrenches carefully wrapped in an oily rag!   These guys can't be beat - They can "repair" your bike - or if you don't have the coin - they can "fix" it for you and all will be well - You just GOTTA love 'em! Put a drop of red Loctite on those head bolts and tighten 'em up 'til they are snug and RIDE!

[UncleErnie]

TEST RESULTS;   Very unscientic mixture of ATF and acetone in a dirty yogurt cup.  Applied with stick found on driveway to the deck of my 20 yo 3.5hp lawn mower, the underside of an antigue BMW /2 sidestand, and a can of paint. 
After one hour, I observe no differences in the surfaces.

That said- When in doubt (fear), DO A SPOT CHECK.