[LotusSevenMan]

Was ticking over nicely as I got my full kit on as still cold and crisp here in UK.
Engine sounding great but perhaps the tickover was just a tad low. Anyway, went over to it having got the helmet all on etc and realised it had just stopped. Went to kick it back into life. Zilch. Not like my bike at all. Fuel to reserve (even though it has lots in the tank) Prod, prod, prod prod, prod;  phew getting warm here now 
I even decided to use the ES but to no avail. Out with the plug. Umm no spark.
Battery good at 12.92 volts and holds a good 12.3v while cranking too.
No spark whatsoever. Tried a different plug. Same result. Nil. Checked points and they are set fine with 15thou gap (the same as before so no closing up) but they just don't operate the sparky bit. 

So, condenser or coil?

[t120rbullet]

Kill switch off?
It won't be the condenser. They will run without one.
CJ

[LotusSevenMan]

Kill switch is ON. Bike wouldn't have been running without it on etc and I didn't disturb it while prodding. If only that easy though ha ha 

Magnetos (on stationary engines I have) won't run with a defective condensor but maybe battery/points ignition is different so that the condensor only spares the points faces from pitting due to excessive arcing.
Have to test coil then. Damn!

[Spitting Bull]

Take your battery off and check the wires behind it - there's one little black one which makes a very spindly connection via a spade-connector. Mine vibrated loose and I'm not the only person it's happened to.

Tom

[LotusSevenMan]

Thanks SB.
I assume this is an earth return wire, yes?
I'll have a look!!!

C

[baird4444]

check continuity from the +side of coil to hotside of points...

- Mike

[LotusSevenMan]

Thought I'd have a go again after your suggestion SB (and was outside while yours was incoming Baird). 

It was the damn wire to the points (that crazy bullet connector join to be precise!). After a lot of fuss trying to remove the battery tray and then getting it back together with rubber air supply pipes falling off the airbox etc (let alone it being 0*c (32*F) and very dark in UK........................ it all RUNS AGAIN!!!
How poor though to have such a 'weak link' just waiting to fail. Could have been miles from home etc!!!     A decent inline crimp has put paid to that problem now though.
Many thanks SB & Baird 

[alwscout]

Same thing happened to me early on but I fixed that real quick with a better connector.
Took me forever to figure it out.

Adam

[Blackthou]

Hi Lotus, glad your bike is up and ruuning again. Where is the connector you  mention? I'd rather check mine than wait for it to fail. Does anyone have a picture?

[fredgold52]

I wonder if anyone could p[ost a picture of this condition since it seems to be a common fault that is difficult to locate.

[Spitting Bull]

It's easy to spot - there's a little wire coming out from the points cover.  (The cover has a little gap to let this wire out) .  The wire goes up behind the battery, where it connects to another wire by means of a cheap connector.  This connection can separate through vibration. You just need to replace the connectors with a better pair.

Tom

[LotusSevenMan]

Tom's right. Follow the wiring from the points to a very poor connector which is basically behind the battery support tray. Not even sure why there is a connector there. It doesn't need to come apart unless you want to remove the whole distributor without taking the wire off the points first. Stupid connection with a 'major' failure potential. Solid inline crimp or soldered joint + heatshrink is the way to go. 

[LotusSevenMan]

Fredgold52

Found this pic (on Baird4444's site) and it shows that damn stupid connector as being a black bullet connector with white wire from the distributor going in from underneath and a black wire coming out of the top of it with it sat at 90* to the clutch cable (just to the right of the orange wire).
My suggestion is to replace it asap before it inevitably drops out and leaves you stranded!!! 

http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u52/baird4444/Engine%20removal/?action=view&current=8819.jpg

[scoTTy]

lotZa nice pictures there

[Chuck D]

Would a nice thick wrap of electrical tape achieve the desird result? Just asking.

[scoTTy]

that and silicon on the contacts should take care of all leakage problems , been there  done that
 

[LotusSevenMan]

Would a nice thick wrap of electrical tape achieve the desird result? Just asking.

Chuck.
Better a permanent connection as I can't see why you'd need/want/desire (!) a connector at all in that area. Connections are always a source of trouble with possible corrosion and falling apart & if not now well maybe later so makes sense to eliminate them where not necessary eh?

[Chuck D]

L-7, Right you are. Thanks.   Chuck.

[scooberton]

You really want to solder the two ends together and use heat shrink tubing or liquid electrical tape to seal the connection,thats about as correct a connection as can be made.{first choice is shrink tubing}.Electrical tape has a way of sometimes unraveling over time especially with the presence of heat or temp. variance and moisture.Add to this an unsoldered joint and this is the worst of repair/modification techniques.do it right the first time and forget it,also remember to put the shrink tubing on one of the wires before you finalize the new connection{an easy mistake to make} or you will be redoing your work.