Author Topic: Clamp was right  (Read 5476 times)

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Blue Ridge Wheeltor

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on: April 23, 2010, 09:39:06 pm
I researched it, and he was right all along, despite getting jumped on. Bravo Clamp. ;)
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REpozer

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Reply #1 on: April 23, 2010, 09:48:58 pm
What are you looking at ?

Does that mean I'm wrong?
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redcat

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Reply #2 on: April 23, 2010, 10:55:37 pm
Right about what?
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BigDon

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Reply #3 on: April 24, 2010, 02:49:12 am
Let's not get carried away here........ ;)
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Rick Sperko

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Reply #4 on: April 24, 2010, 05:00:00 am
I assume this is in regard to the two year old discussion regarding clutchless shifting? Maybe not.
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Ice

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Reply #5 on: April 24, 2010, 09:11:21 am
Oil ? ATF in the chaincase ? Cheeseburgers ?
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clamp

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Reply #6 on: April 24, 2010, 01:02:24 pm
Yeah,--what was a right about? ???
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Blue Ridge Wheeltor

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Reply #7 on: April 24, 2010, 04:13:18 pm
google   tubeless wire wheels
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Rick Sperko

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Reply #8 on: April 25, 2010, 05:20:15 am
Duuudde, are you really going to take us back there? I am outta here before Vince shows up.

-Rick
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clamp

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Reply #9 on: April 25, 2010, 08:34:11 am
Oh that !!   yeah well.


     So what did you find out about?
« Last Edit: April 25, 2010, 01:13:13 pm by clamp »
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UncleErnie

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Reply #10 on: April 25, 2010, 04:07:40 pm
Bernie is looking forward to the passage of legislation in Oldpeopleville where they propose paving the streets with rubber.  He hates buying tires and tubes.
Run what ya brung


Blue Ridge Wheeltor

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Reply #11 on: April 25, 2010, 04:44:42 pm
Oh that !!   yeah well.


     So what did you find out about?


As long as the rim has a safety lip on it (most do, but not sure about Enfield) it can be done and has been done successfully by numerous people. There is a company, Woodies Wheels, that has been specializing in rims since 1973 and had done these too. Google  tubeless wire wheels and there is a huge amount of info.
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UncleErnie

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Reply #12 on: April 25, 2010, 05:40:37 pm
Whenever I have trouble sleeping, I read Bernie's e-mai  ...
Run what ya brung


Blue Ridge Wheeltor

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Reply #13 on: April 25, 2010, 06:11:43 pm
Whenever I have trouble sleeping, I read Bernie's e-mai  ...

That's because you read so slow, Magoo. Glad that "Hooked on Phonics" is starting to work for you.
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clamp

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Reply #14 on: April 28, 2010, 03:21:26 am
The safety lip is suppose to keep the tyre in a controlable situation in a flat condition.

     Im not sure about that, or that it would help handling of a motorcycle.

     There are bling shops replacing spokes and wheels on every street corner here. 5 million motorcycles in the  city of Bangkok alone.

      Outside hangs 20 30 different alluminium wheels of all sizes with brake disc galore along with bright green/ red. yellow callipers for anything under 125cc

    NONE   --- of these wheels have lips. I have stood up to them with my glasses on,--all are tubless and there are no safety lips on ANY of them,----any more.
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Vince

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Reply #15 on: April 28, 2010, 06:38:17 pm
Duuudde, are you really going to take us back there? I am outta here before Vince shows up.

-Rick
    I had hoped this would die a quiet death.

    
The safety lip is suppose to keep the tyre in a controlable situation in a flat condition.

     Im not sure about that, or that it would help handling of a motorcycle.

    

    Guys, the question here is not whether it can be done. Of course it can. But should it be done? A product feature without benefit is just so much fluff. The main feature of a tubeless tire is that the tube is bonded to the inside of the tire. There are two benefits to this.  For one, the tire/tube combo is somewhat thinner and transfers heat better, and additional heat from tube to tire chafing is eliminated. This allows for more consistent traction, longer tread life, high load capacity, and the ability to spin the tire faster. Two, because the tube is bonded to the tire, the tube won't split or tear. A puncturing object is held by the tube (liner) and the liner seals around the object. This limits air loss to allow for more control as you slow down.
      There is more engineering involved. The safety bead really does work. I have no doubts about 100 years of proven engineering. Yamaha Virago and Maxim wheels, from 1980 to '84 did not have this feature. Most of the time I do not have to break the bead when one comes in flat. The bead came off while riding. The last three tubes I replaced had a ripped out valve stem. This happens when the tire is run low on pressure. It slips on the rim, ripping out the stem. These three were on bikes that were pulled out of the garage for the first ride of the season. NOT ONE of the riders checked their tire pressure after the winter lay over.
     MOST FLATS CAN BE AVOIDED BY KEEPING UP THE AIR PRESSURE. Not all, certainly, but in my experience probably over 90%. Most people keep their tire pressure too low, and check it only once a year. Most of the bikes I get in to service have less than 20# in one or both tires. I check mine at least weekly. If I haven't ridden in a while I check before riding. In almost a half million miles of riding I have had 2 flats on the street. In the dirt I have never had a flat that didn't involve a cactus or a crash. You too can have this track record by keeping up your tire pressure.
     Tubeless tires get flats also. The fix is labor intensive and problematical. Every tire manufacturer that has a repair guideline (most don't), requires the load and speed rating to be downgraded. Most bias ply tubeless tires can be tubed. Radial tires must be replaced.
     Most flats occur in the rear tire because the front tire kicks up something that the rear tire runs over. You can hang a mud flap off the front fender or under the engine. If it hangs to the ground it will knock down anything the front tire kicks up, thus virtually eliminating rear flats.
     Sometimes, tubeless tires that sit with low pressure develop corrosion on the bead when the low tire pulls slightly away from the rim. Then I have to dismount the tire to clean the bead to stop it from leaking.
   Unless you are going to run up around 150 MPH, you will not make use of one of the benefits of a tubeless tire. Keep the pressure up and you won't need the other benefit.
     On the down side, sealing the spoke area eliminates the potential to maintain the spokes. That is a safety issue.
     From my position I see a lot of time, energy, and money being spent on something with at best no benefit. At worst there will be significant safety and maintenance issues. Is it really so hard to check your tire pressure? Are you going racing at Daytona, or otherwise going 150 MPH?
     There is a new product out. Go to www.nuetech.com They have a device to seal your rim and lock the bead in place. Of course it depends on 100# of air pressure in the device...
     From the dealer's side of the counter (wasn't there a thread about that?) I see all manner of "improvements" that are at best a waste of time and money.  I am always in awe of my customers that know so much moire than the engineers whose product they are using. Up grades are fun and useful if it's a real upgrade. The theoretical and actual advantages of tubeless tires are wasted on the Enfield, as well as most other bikes that come with spoke rims. And while most people that will make this kind of modification will be just fine, some will have a problem. You might be one of the special few.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2010, 06:57:12 pm by Vince »


r80rt

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Reply #16 on: April 28, 2010, 09:45:00 pm
I never saw a problem with tubes, I've had bikes with tubeless tires and never saw any benifit from it. I must be missing something :D
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baird4444

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Reply #17 on: April 29, 2010, 04:44:39 pm
so long as we are waking sleeping dogs and whipping dead horses...
  I have used Castrol 20/50 for years. I am using the Rotella 15/40 for the
run-in of the new piston and rings...   I am considering keeping with the
Rotella or maybe even going.... 
                       ( here it comes )
             synthetic.....
 outside of cost between the Rotella - Castrol - Synthetic;
what are the virtues of each and why shouldn't I ?

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Blltrdr

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Reply #18 on: April 29, 2010, 05:07:35 pm
so long as we are waking sleeping dogs and whipping dead horses...
  I have used Castrol 20/50 for years. I am using the Rotella 15/40 for the
run-in of the new piston and rings...   I am considering keeping with the
Rotella or maybe even going.... 
                       ( here it comes )
             synthetic.....
 outside of cost between the Rotella - Castrol - Synthetic;
what are the virtues of each and why shouldn't I ?

             -  Mike   

Mike I've been using Lucas 20/50 synthetic in my bike since October. The benefits go like this: 1. No perceived breakdown of oil. 2. Oil loss from longer rides has minimized 3. Extended period between oil changes 4. No foaming 5. Cooler running temps

I have put about 1600 mi. on since changeover to full synthetic and notice the oil looks like I just changed it. So far so good! I intend to keep observing it's characteristics but don't foresee changing back to dino. I believe there are benefits to running synthetic oil in a single cylinder motor, especially one as antiquated as the Bullet's.
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baird4444

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Reply #19 on: April 29, 2010, 05:17:35 pm


         Nice...    please keep us posted.
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clamp

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Reply #20 on: April 30, 2010, 02:36:49 am
Quote from: Blltrdr link=topic= I believe there are benefits to running synthetic oil in a single cylinder motor, especially one as antiquated as the Bullet's.
[/quote

    Can you explain?   What are the benefits that you believe would accommodate the demands of a single cylinder 25HP push rod engine with 8.5: 1 compression ratio that would require synthetic.

   

   
   
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Blltrdr

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Reply #21 on: April 30, 2010, 04:04:17 am
[quote author=Blltrdr link=topic= I believe there are benefits to running synthetic oil in a single cylinder motor, especially one as antiquated as the Bullet's.


    Can you explain?   What are the benefits that you believe would accommodate the demands of a single cylinder 25HP push rod engine with 8.5: 1 compression ratio that would require synthetic.  

Clamp, I think the benefit of running cooler (about 12* F cooler than dino oil) is one, another is it's longevity. I was running Castrol 20/50 before I changed over and noticed it breaking down at an extremely fast rate (this can't be good for the engine), I also noticed the oil would foam up a lot (which is a sign of breakdown). I have had none of these symptoms with the synthetic so far and this makes me happy. I don't mind paying twice as much for something that works twice as hard. As far as oil changes go I would change my oil every 1000 mi. or sooner depending on the look of the oil. This is an experiment for me because I have never used synthetic oil in anything I've owned because I've been slightly apprehensive because of the unknowns. I think that the characteristics exhibited so far make it an ideal choice for my riding style. I'm not trying to push what I'm doing on anyone else, it comes down to other riders riding style and maybe budget.
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