Author Topic: oil pressure probs (Read 3818 times)

enfield freddy · **on:** February 24, 2010, 10:17:09 pm

one that i think "ace" might be interested in

a few weeks ago a oil pump spindle failed , first signs were the semrat rockers locking up , (as i was proceding at speed)

knowing this problem might happen again , i decided to do something?

now we all know that the bullet has low oil pressure , but a good flow , so a guage was out of the question.

I decided to fit a very low actuating oil pressure switch into the quill bolt.

the switch actuates between 1.1 and 2 LBi , (so is low)

I set this up , on a space on the cascette reseved for a warning light , that shows when my side stand is down (no cuttout fitted)

switch here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-MICRA-BLUEBIRD-OIL-PRESSURE-SWITCH_W0QQitemZ220506484619QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091126?IMSfp=TL091126206005r11527

i removed the plastic section , and its descrete , if for some reason the light comes on ,,,,,,stop!!!

chumma7 · **Reply #1 on:** February 24, 2010, 10:19:28 pm

very good idea. got any pics of this installed?

enfield freddy · **Reply #2 on:** February 24, 2010, 10:24:55 pm

the switch supplied was an "intermotor" brand

51150 24 1/8" BSP Taper 0.7-2.2 LBS

and it was a simple job to put a spare quill bolt in a lathe to be drilled/tapped

only one wire was needed to be run to the cascette

ace.cafe · **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2010, 10:57:50 pm

It's a neat idea.

Are you running the floating bush or the roller?

I don't think the roller will hold any pressure.

enfield freddy · **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2010, 11:06:14 pm

at present the standard big end , the switch has such a low operating pressure , i think it would work on the later roller type

as the cost is just an old quill bolt , a (£5 UK) switch , nothing is lost

if/when the light comes on STOP!!!!

cochi · **Reply #5 on:** February 27, 2010, 05:58:37 pm

Freddy, that is an excellent idea. I'm with chumma7, would love to see pictures and some directions. Thanks. cochi

enfield freddy · **Reply #6 on:** February 27, 2010, 06:18:10 pm

parts are being manufactured at the moment for a mk 2 version, the idea is to make a semi hollow bolt , to replace the oil filter bolt , this new bolt will have a tapping on the back to take a switch , with a drilling running down it for several inches , then cross drillings to get the pressure from the filter housing , we are trying to find the correct dia /material that will not break on the cross drillings

this one will sit neatly , where the nut at the back of your filter is now

cochi · **Reply #7 on:** February 27, 2010, 07:14:16 pm

Freddy, that's even a better idea. Keep us posted. I'm, for one, am very interested. Thanks, cochi

enfield freddy · **Reply #8 on:** February 27, 2010, 07:27:53 pm

I am having several sample made up (as we speak) the cost of the final article complete with a compatable UK made switch should not be excessive , the idea is to make the thing foolproof , reliable , unbreakable , and a cost effective upgrade.

when they are running , i will send photo,s/samples to kevin and let him decide if he wants to supply , if not i will make then available vie paypal

alan b

ERC · **Reply #9 on:** February 27, 2010, 10:39:50 pm

Freddy I'm a bit confused you say the nut at the back of the filter. The Bullet doesn't have a nut at the back. All the 700s I have do but the bullet I own doesn't. Is this just for the twins? ERC

ERC · **Reply #10 on:** February 27, 2010, 11:50:50 pm

Thats a good idea the only one I ever thought of was with the Quill bolt. Actually CMW had a rig like this with the Quill bolt years ago but they discontinued it. Must admit I never thought of trying to use the through bolt on the twin oil pumps. ERC

enfield freddy · **Reply #11 on:** February 27, 2010, 11:58:52 pm

cheers have tried on the quill , tapping in and fitting a switch ,, a guage is useless!!! but the switch works ok,

but it looks ugly , and in the case of my bike , is very close to the sweptback front pipe.

the prioity is finding a sutable metal that in a smaller size , ie: closer to 8mm that will not snap/stretch when cross drilling are made into it , along with the drilling running down the interior to feed the switch outlet when you tighten the oil filter cover nut

things are looking good tho,

RGT · **Reply #12 on:** February 28, 2010, 12:10:26 am

I wonder if you might be better in putting a tapped hole for your switch in a capnut that is then used to lock your standard undrilled quill bolt. You could cut in an oring groove on the sealing/ mating face of the capnut so that oild could come up the threads into the capnut and switch without having to weaken the bolt...

enfield freddy · **Reply #13 on:** February 28, 2010, 12:24:14 am

sorry , late in the uk , bedtime almost!

plan 1 was to drill the quill bolt that screws into the timing cover , that feeds the cork/neoprene seal at the end of the crank? , this has been done , and we have proved that a oil light works , but a guage is a no no.

plan 2 , which is progressing , is to fit a switch at the rear of the oil filter housing , between the housing and the g/box ,and will get a reading from inside the oil filter chamber, sorry if i have misread your post (polish lager!)

alan b

RGT · **Reply #14 on:** February 28, 2010, 12:29:49 am

Sorry, my mistake I thought you were calling the bolt that rod that passes through the oil filter the quill bolt.

RGT · **Reply #15 on:** February 28, 2010, 12:53:43 am

I understand, and what I am saying is rather than drill the through bolt, let the oil that would leak past the threads activate your switch, you would need a seal outside of the thread, I suggested using a capnut but you might be better just machining a piece of hex stock with the thread for the rod that passes through the oil filter on one end and a tapped hole for your switch on the other. This would replace the backing/lock nut that goes on the back of the filter housing. You don't need or want flow to your switch, you just want to get a pressure reading, which you should be able to get by the leakage past the threads, maybe with some insignificant delay on start up...my suggestion to cut on oring groove in the mating face of this fitting that goes up against the back of the housing was so that you would have a positive seal that did not interfere with the flow of oil up the threads to your switch, hope that makes sense.

enfield freddy · **Reply #16 on:** February 28, 2010, 01:05:42 am

yup point taken , but the switch is a taper thread , and unscrewing , rescrewing would not nessesarry land in the same place , plus on a taper thread , they do not screw in till they touch a washer ,

points taken on board tho

the minimum size for a switch that was not taper would be m10 , therefore the casing would need drilling

Part No. A/F Size Thread Pressure ( p.s.i.)
51150 24 1/8" BSP Taper 0.7-2.2
50820 22 1/8" BSP Taper 2.2-3.6
51140 22 1/8" BSP Taper 3.0-5.0
50750 22 1/8" BSP Taper 3.0-5.0
51100 22 1/8" BSP Taper 3.0-6.0
51110 22 1/8" BSP Taper 3.0-6.0
50740 22 1/8" BSP Taper 3.0-6.0
50810 22 1/8" BSP Taper 3.0-6.0
50700 22 1/8" BSP Taper 4.5-7.5
50800 22 1/8" BSP Taper 4.5-7.5
51196 24 1/8" x 27 NPTF 1.26-3.25
51010 22 1/8" x 27 NPTF 2.0-5.0 N.O.C.
51011 22 1/8" x 27 NPTF 2.9-7.3 N.O.C.
51000 22 1/8" x 27 NPTF 3.0-5.0
50620 13 1/8" x 27 NPTF 3.0-5.0
50530 22 1/8" x 27 NPTF 4.4-8.7
50540 22 1/8" x 27 NPTF 4.5-7.5
51060 22 1/8" x 27 NPTF 4.5-7.5
50670 22 1/8" x 27 NPTF 4.5-7.5 N.O.C.
50500 22 1/8" x 27 NPTF 5.8-10.2 - Standard sprite
51020 24 1/8" x 27 NPTF 6.5-8.5 N.O.C.
50650 22 1/8" x 27 NPTF 6.5-10.0 N.O.C.
50630 13 1/8" x 27 NPTF 10.0-13.0
50610 25.4 1/4" x 18 NPTF 2.0-8.0
50850 22 1/4" x 18 NPTF 2.9-5.1
50590 22 1/4" x 18 NPTF 2.9-8.7
51050 22 1/4" x 18 NPTF 3.0-5.0
50690 22 1/4" x 18 NPTF 4.5-7.5
51190 22 1/4" x 18 NPTF 7.5-11.9
50510 22 1/4" x 19 NPTF 2.9-5.1
50520 22 3/8" BSF 6.1-10.2
50680 22 3/8" BSF 17.4-29.0
50611 22 1/2" UNF 3.0-5.0
51170 22+18 1/2" UNF 4.5-7.5
50600 22 1/2" UNF 5.8-10.2
50950 22 M10 x 1 2.2-6.5
51031 22 M10 x 1 5.8-10.2 N.O.C.
50660 22+15.8 M10 x 1 7.5-10.0
50760 22 M10 x 1 7.5-10.0
51030 22 M10 x 1 17.4-23.2 N.O.C.
50970 22 M10 x 1 23.0-29.0 N.O.C
50960 22 M10 x 1 Taper 2.2-6.5
51197 24 M10 x 1 Taper 4.25-6.25
50550 22 M10 x 1 Taper 4.4-8.7
51015 22 M10 x 1 Taper 4.4-8.7
50710 22 M10 x 1 Taper 4.4-8.7
50951 24 M10 x 1 Taper 4.4-8.7
51040 22 M10 x 1 Taper 23.0-29.0 N.O.C.
50720 22 M12 x 1.5 0.7-2.2
50570 22 M12 x 1.5 2.9-7.3
50730 22 M12 x 1.5 2.9-7.5
50725 24 M12 x 1.5 4.25-6.25
50910 22 M12 x 1.5 5.5-8.5
50770 22 M12 x 1.5 6.0-8.0
50780 22 M12 x 1.5 7.5-10.0
50790 22 M12 x 1.5 7.5-10.0
50830 22 M12 x 1.5 7.5-10.0
51195 24 M12 x 1.5 Taper 4.25-6.25
50890 22 M12 x 1.5 Taper 5.8-10.2
50900 22 M12 x 1.5 Taper 7.5-11.5
51131 21 M14 x 1.5 2.0-4.0
50985 21 M14 x 1.5 2.0-4.0
50980 22 M14 x 1.5 2.2-3.6
50990 21 M14 x 1.5 3.5-6.5
50721 24 M14 x 1.5 3.5-6.5
51133 21 M14 x 1.5 4.25-6 25
50930 22 M14 x 1.5 4.4-8.0
50935 22 M14 x 1.5 4.4-8.0
50840 22 M14 x 1.5 4.5-7.5
50860 24 M14 x 1.5 5.8-8.7
50560 22 M14 x 1.5 7.3-11.6
50880 22 M14 x 1.5 8.0-11.0
51134 21 M14 x 1.5 28.0-32.0
50870 22 M16 x 1.5 5.8-10.2
50871 21 M16 x 1.5 5.8-10.2
50875 21 M16 x 1.5 10.5-14.5
51130 21 M18 x 1.5 4.25-6.25
51132 21 M18 x 1.5 4.25-6.25
50861 21 M18 x 1.5 6.0-8.0
50941 23 M18 x 1.5 8.0-10.0
50920 23 M18 x 1.5 8.5-11.5
50940 23 M18 x 1.5 8.5-11.5

alan b

RGT · **Reply #17 on:** February 28, 2010, 01:14:24 am

I hope this makes it clearer

enfield freddy · **Reply #18 on:** February 28, 2010, 01:25:45 am

see what your saying , and taken note , a new bolt would have to be made anyway as the origional one is not strong enough

cheers

alan b

RGT · **Reply #19 on:** February 28, 2010, 01:34:36 am

why would the stock bolt not be strong enough? there is no change to it or its use except that you would be using an oring for a seal. In this method you would get your oil pressure reading from the oil passing through the straight thread between the bolt and the housing not by drilling it.

enfield freddy · **Reply #20 on:** February 28, 2010, 01:53:38 am

will check with the machinist on monday , remember the bolt is made in india from chewing gum , and would have both a drilling running down it , and several cross drillings , would you trust that bolt? yes we know the filter cap is a low poundage , but after stripping 5/16th head bolts a 15lbf , i would sooner replace

cochi · **Reply #21 on:** March 01, 2010, 01:17:01 am

Looks that that both ideas are sound on how to place the oil pressure switch. I'm going to have to increased my wish list! ACE oil cooler, air filter and now one of Fred's gizmo's. Fred hope CMW picks it up. I think it would be a bit easier to order. thanks cochi

cyrusb · **Reply #22 on:** March 01, 2010, 02:00:09 am

How about threading one of the rocker banjo bolts. It's up and out of the way,and the rockers were the first indication you had a problem to begin with, right? It seems to me that the bottom end was least affected by your low(no) pressure problem. And that alone is good info. It seems to have alerted you without ruining any expensive parts, or has it?

enfield freddy · **Reply #23 on:** March 10, 2010, 02:53:39 pm

oil warning light switch settup now fitted and working

at present only for earlier (imperial / non metric) bikes ,

PM me for more details

AB