Author Topic: Ignition On light  (Read 4109 times)

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LotusSevenMan

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on: December 03, 2007, 05:43:47 pm
I don't know how relevant this is to Classic owners in the 'States, but it has proved useful to myself in the UK (and that's why we do modifications eh?)

I have been using the stop-engine-with-the-decompressor-lever method since reading on here that is is better for ES models re sprag clutch etc etc.
I found it too easy at night or while working on the bike to leave the ignition in the 'on' position because the only giveaway is the ammeter if flicked over and of course the key position. Well, I was finding I was leaving it in this 'on' position while working on the bike more times than I'd like especially with the darker winter evenings coming in.
 I wanted an ignition light!
I had fitted an MPH speedo which happened to have the neutral light in place. A redundant light in my case as my four speed RHS change doesn't use one. So, I removed the ignition switch. Soldered a couple of wires to the back of the relevant terminals to that carried the 12v when the ignition switch was in the on position and fitted it all back in place. I removed the  bulb holder that had the neutral light and chopped off the wiring (that on mine was wired originally as extra speedo illumination on the KPH European spec speedos).
Here's the clever bit (well not really). I then fitted a super bright 12v white LED through the plastic holder and fitted a cable tie to hold it at the right height above the holder so it sits right against the neutral light lens cover. The LED was then soldered and heat shrink protected onto the previously soldered tails from the ignition switch.
Result is a light I can see at all times with the ignition on without it being blinding at night. One could always fit a separate holder somewhere on the casquette if needed etc.
Works for me and I don't leave the ignition on now while 'playing' /maintaining the bike!!!



If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
Honda VTR FireStorm (SuperHawk) 996cc 'V' twin
Kawasaki KR1 250cc twin 'stroker
Ducati 916 'L' twin


cyrusb

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Reply #1 on: December 08, 2007, 01:59:36 am
On my 500e those running lights (if thats what they are?) that straddle the headlight are on with the key, engine running or not. The headlight lites with the engine.
2005E Fixed and or Replaced: ignition, fenders,chainguard,wires,carb,headlight,seat,tailight,sprockets,chain,shock springs,fork springs, exhaust system, horn,shifter,clutch arm, trafficators,crankcase vent.


LotusSevenMan

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Reply #2 on: December 09, 2007, 11:25:19 am
Well European spec ones are not it appears. Good idea; though I feel it does mean electrical use (albeit only 8W if that is the larger wattage bulbs you have) at all times.
These so called running lights come on on my 500ES with the switch in the sidelights position (logical) which lights these + a headlight 'pilot' light that is also 4W.

Strange to see as I hadn't noticed it before, even with the key off and decomp lever pulled in when I kick it over the four times (I find that best to prime the bike and move the 'bits' around) the LED light actually flickers. Must be my kicking the engine over that is powering up the generator enough to give a low current to operate the LED!!!
I've 'invented' a generator testing light too LOL. ::)
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
Honda VTR FireStorm (SuperHawk) 996cc 'V' twin
Kawasaki KR1 250cc twin 'stroker
Ducati 916 'L' twin


t120rbullet

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Reply #3 on: December 09, 2007, 03:34:15 pm
On my 500e those running lights (if thats what they are?) that straddle the headlight are on with the key, engine running or not. The headlight lites with the engine.

Those are "pub lights".
I guess back in the olden days in England when parking on the street at night one had to leave the lights on. Why? I have no idea but if one of our members from across the pond would like to elaborate! Maybe so one didn't trip over their own bike when leaving the pub after a long night of tipping a few.
My guess that would lead to many dead battery's in that era of Lucas electrics.
Nowadays their just a cool reminder of days gone past.
My Trump has a "pilot light". A small bulb in the bottom of the headlight that does the same thing. Not very bright but I use it in the daytime to satisfy our states "lights on" law.
CJ
1972 FLH "Sambo"
1999 Enfield 500 Black Deluxe "Silver"
2023 Guzzi V7 Special "BOB"


cyrusb

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Reply #4 on: December 09, 2007, 06:25:29 pm
Why stop the engine with the release? Does that guarantee a TDC start ?
2005E Fixed and or Replaced: ignition, fenders,chainguard,wires,carb,headlight,seat,tailight,sprockets,chain,shock springs,fork springs, exhaust system, horn,shifter,clutch arm, trafficators,crankcase vent.


LotusSevenMan

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Reply #5 on: December 10, 2007, 08:31:39 pm
Read this on site:-

Bull
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    How do you stop your engine?
« on: October 24, 2007, 02:12:12 PM »   

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How do you stop your engine?  By using the kill switch?  By turning the key?  By using the decompressor?

I always use the decompressor.  It's the habit of a lifetime because on all my previous bikes, the only way to stop the engine (apart from deliberately stalling it) was by using a decompressor or a valve-lifter.  The Bullet is the only bike I've ever owned that has the modern refinements of a kill switch or an ignition key.

But I've been wondering - is one method better for the health of the bike than the others?

Tom
If it ain't broke-------------------------- fix it 'till it is!

Royal Enfield Miltary 500cc  (2003)
Honda VTR FireStorm (SuperHawk) 996cc 'V' twin
Kawasaki KR1 250cc twin 'stroker
Ducati 916 'L' twin