Author Topic: early bullet breather (Read 4118 times)

enfield freddy · **on:** February 21, 2010, 01:41:24 pm

fed up with my breather chucking oil out , i decided to do some mods,

a one way valve was needed , so i looked around, a popular valve is the one used on domestic plumbing , but is to large , so a smaller one was found

this a valve used on diesel cars/commercial vehicles , to stop the fuel flowing bach to the tank overnight.

(sorry about the bad photo)

then work proceeded , to an idea that i had seen from the hichcocks cataloge/web

the idea was to let the oil/fumes go back into the tank , but vent the gasses off ,

it did/does work , but if you are only riding short distances/cold , you get a lot of mainasse going back in the tank

work progressed to this stage

more picis in use:

the final outcome , was the valve shown above , but leading (not to the tank) to the swinging arm , as per a scottoiler

this has worked good now for several yrs

cyrusb · **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2010, 03:14:21 pm

Good stuff, where did you find the little check valve? Most of the spring loaded checks I looked into required too much pressure to open them, at least I thought so.

enfield freddy · **Reply #2 on:** February 21, 2010, 03:21:14 pm

as mentioned before , this type of valve can be bought from a "motor factors" as opposed to a car accessory shop ,

the valve opens quite easily , by mouth pressure ,

I would think the best place to locate one , is by asking a "back street" garage that plays will diesel cars , as stated above , the fuel pipe is cut , one of those inserted , to stop a faulty diesel fuel pump from allowing fuel to drop back in the tank overnight (cowboy trick!)

hope you understand the UK terminolagy?

RGT · **Reply #3 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:00:04 pm

I used Hitchcock's part and added a T to the crossover pipe from the carnkcase allowing me to run two of the duckbill valves, you can see them exiting the picture to the right they both go up into the stock airbox.

( I have to laugh at your remedy for leaky fuel systems, here we fix the leaks : )

enfield freddy · **Reply #4 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:05:23 pm

( I have to laugh at your remedy for leaky fuel systems, here we fix the leaks : )

sorry , over my head with that one?

RGT · **Reply #5 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:40:36 pm

using a one way valve to keep diesel fuel from bleeding back to the tank. In a tight leakfree system the fuel will not leak back.

enfield freddy · **Reply #6 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:54:29 pm

sorry , i might have misguided you there (european) cars and wagons , use the diesel fuel pump to lift the fuel , as well as meter it (not the very modern ones) , and a lot of high milage ones , or diesels that have been filled with petrol , suffer from "knackered" diesel pumps , a common symptom is bad starting , due to internal leakeges , ie the pump empties overnight or if left for a while , the valve above is a quick easy fix , and will keep the car/commercial on the road ,

cyrusb · **Reply #7 on:** February 21, 2010, 05:53:40 pm

O.K, Where exactly did you buy that thing?

enfield freddy · **Reply #8 on:** February 21, 2010, 06:10:06 pm

sorry don,t know about the USA , as mentioned in 3 PMs to me , the valve is used/designed to stop fuel running back to the tank on a diesel engine (faulty fuel pump)

the ones I use here in the UK are made by a company called "fuelparts" part No. D12-6303 contact No is 01 935 414 225

NON RETURN VALVES
D12-6302 6mm in-line
D12-6303 8mm in-line
D12-6304 10mm in-line

Telephone 01527 835555

since this article was published "henry price" (of diesel engine mods) has started stocking them , and can supply to the USA , his contact is [urlhttp://www.pricepartmotorcycles.co.uk/[/url]

although they should be available localy , as i said , a motor factors , or someone that plays with diesels

good luck

fdx · **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2010, 09:44:30 am

I'm using the same valve. Just pointed exit on the chain so I have chain lubrication.

Just did it so now I need to check how much oil is going out from there.
Same system is on one of 1950' made polish bike "Junak". No oil separator or stuff like that just breather gases are pointed on to chain lubricate him.

Hog Head · **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2010, 11:51:50 am

My Indian domestic market 500 has the breather going straight aft onto the chain

enfield freddy · **Reply #11 on:** February 22, 2010, 11:58:31 am

yup , is it the duckbill? , running back to the front sprocket

Blltrdr · **Reply #12 on:** February 22, 2010, 04:33:59 pm

What is the advantage of this valve when compared to the duckbill? The duckbill has been used on these bikes from there inception. Is there a ball inside, if so can it get mucked up and not fully close? A full explanation of the valve's benefits should be thoroughly explained so people can make an informative decision before replacing there factory part. So EF give us the scoop please!

enfield freddy · **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2010, 04:51:08 pm

yes there is a ball inside , as posted above , the origional idea was to push the surplus oil back to the tank , alas mainasse (ing) was happening , so the later idea of running a rubber tube , terminated by a small brass tube , aimed at the rear spk was tried , dunno costs over there , but if you say $10 for a duckbill , then the valve would cost $20 ,

In practice this works good , has not failed or jammed up in over 3 yrs ?

and the oil is at the back , like a scottoiler?

try it? nothing lost?

fdx · **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2010, 05:19:30 pm

I have that one way valve and duckbill on the end of hose.

enfield freddy · **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2010, 05:24:49 pm

accepted , but why have two one way valves? one is enough , it it works proper?

Blltrdr · **Reply #16 on:** February 22, 2010, 05:41:55 pm

There has been a few Hitchcock's post that I've read where a Volvo power brake booster valve was used for the breather valve. Any time a ball is used in a valve you would have to think that it could be compromised in some way with deposits especially being used on a big single. Have you ever had to clean it in the last 3 yrs and how do you check it to make sure it is operating 100%. I have been very leery of changing out my duckbill with something else and if I did there would have to be some benefit achieved over the factory one to make it worthwhile. What would be my benefit?

enfield freddy · **Reply #17 on:** February 22, 2010, 05:56:39 pm

benifit for you ,,, dunno , for me it has worked ok , at minimal cost , and as stated above , in its last form , is applying any oil on to the chain at the rear ,

Testing: you can hear the air pulsing thru it , and by removing the clamp on the barrel can easily blow , but not suck , so I think it works?

remember , this was an idea I thought of , and people on a couple of other forums have tried , maybe , this should go into the oil tank in hot weather? , but in the cold it causes problems.

do you also know that the early twist on cap has two positions? , run and fraight , in the first position , the cap will allow air in and breath , if you continue to twist the cap , it then seals the tank for frieghting , and you will have oil coming from every orifice , when you run the bike? , as the tank is sealed

RGT · **Reply #18 on:** February 22, 2010, 06:42:38 pm

I had noticed that there were two positions on my cap but did not know it was by design, learn something new here everyday

Blltrdr · **Reply #19 on:** February 22, 2010, 06:47:20 pm

EF, a few months back I converted my breather from the location off the oil reservoir to the original location on the side of the case. I feel it noticeably changed the characteristics of how my motor sounded and performed. It was a fairly easy mod to perform. Here is the link to my posts if your interested: http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,5572.15.html

enfield freddy · **Reply #20 on:** February 22, 2010, 07:07:04 pm

yes I did see that , a chappy on another UK forum sent me the link , and I sucsesfully modded my G/Friends bike much the same as you did ,

By your postings I can see that the technicalities (or lack of) on a bullet , give you an erge to remidy/rectify

have you read my comments below , regarding strengening the 4 speed gearbox cover , to remove the flex?

EF

Blltrdr · **Reply #21 on:** February 22, 2010, 07:16:14 pm

Quote from: enfield freddy on February 22, 2010, 07:07:04 pm

By your postings I can see that the technicalities (or lack of) on a bullet , give you an erge to remidy/rectify

have you read my comments below , regarding strengening the 4 speed gearbox cover , to remove the flex?

EF

Well yes the Bullet does lend itself to modification. Sometimes I wish I could leave well enough alone but am a pathetic addict when it comes to reinventing the wheel.

I haven't read your post on strengthening the 4spd cover, where's the link? I am currently using a 5spd box w/4sp primary but still have my close ratio 4spd pleading for another chance.

enfield freddy · **Reply #22 on:** February 22, 2010, 07:26:01 pm

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,6844.0.html

so simple , just extend the upper bolt that holde the smaller brg in , and drill thru the outer cover , and place adjusted locknuts behind , and a smallwasher/nut on the outside

= no flex