Author Topic: Gearbox and primary maintenance - which side first, or does it matter?  (Read 5859 times)

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Glenn

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Here, look at this. It's the inboard side of the LH shift linkage bottom lever. It's all welded up so the only way to remove it would be to first remove that part of the frame.


baird4444

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without going out to look at it; I think that is just where the shaft from the shifter is welded to that arm...   that is the way they are. If I remember right, if you remove the shifter and the cir-clips on the shaft; then remove the nut and bolt on the other end of the arm,
it should come out by pulling to the center of the bike.
    it's been 3 years and a few beers since I was there - Mike
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Glenn

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You might think so, but the geometry of the frame would prevent that in my case. My photo is not very good so it's hard to see, but that welded shaft/lever combo could slide maybe 1/4" - 1/2" toward the center of the bike, before it hit that gearbox fastener & mounting plate you can see in the upper part of the red square.

As far as I can tell, it would have to come out the other way -- by removing that section of frame that the footpeg rod passes through.


baird4444

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yea,yea...   you are right. That whole assembly comes off to the outside after the inner primary is off. That linkage is a roundabout way to get to the cross shaft that is rearward and a little higher...  I've added a couple of pics from when I removed my motor a couple of years ago. To help you get your bearings, the output shaft from the gearbox has duct tape on it. Sure wish I had degreased b4 I took these...
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 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
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Glenn

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I tried using 3 heavy spring from CMW on my 4 speed and it didn't work at all. But it isn't hard to find out so you might as well try it.

What happened? Did you break a cable?



baird4444

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I just re-read my post and it wasn't very clear. If you follow the linkage in your pic up and around to the clamp on the Knurled cross shaft...   mark the shaft to get the clamp on the same knurl, then remove and let the linkage drop. once the shifter, footpeg, clips, and nut at the rear of that sub assembly have been removed you can slide it all out and off.
          sorry bout that - Mike
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 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
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Al

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  You need not remove ANYTHING to install the bushing kit. with perhaps the exception of the foot-peg. I  speelrd out the proceedure in am essage on the royalenfield yahoogroup site. It's too lenghty to repeat here.

 Sahame on C<MW for not revising the much compalined about instruction that accompany the bushing kit!

 


 
Here, look at this. It's the inboard side of the LH shift linkage bottom lever. It's all welded up so the only way to remove it would be to first remove that part of the frame.


Blltrdr

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I still don't see the need to remove the inner primary to take the linkage apart and install the kit. You should be able to remove the shifter bracket and foot peg then push the foot peg shaft to the right side linkage should drop down and out. Please point out why this won't work. Like I said before, I never had to remove the inner primary to install my bushing kit.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


Blltrdr

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Now that I know what to look for, and while the primary cover is still off, I can check if the previous owner (the mystery man who apparently had the same ideas as me) really did install the bushing kit himself. If he did, worst is that I'm out $25. (By the way, that's way too expensive for two metal bushings, small bolts, regular nuts, locknuts, and bad instructions.)

Nothing's for naught! Sometimes the simplest ideas cost the most. Now why the hell is that? Knowledge, Widom, Ideas=$$$$$

Well Glen the awkward lessons we learn on our beloved Bullets can be rewarding also.

Happy riding

Brad
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


The Garbone

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................................................................................
I didn't think it was too difficult, but you will need to remove the primary to get those sealed bearings in place. If you don't have a bearing drift you can get the right set at Harbor Freight very cheaply, like $11.00 and it will save you a lot of time.........................................

Cheers,
Donovan

A bit of thread necromancy here...

Nothing in CMWs online store so for a drift I looked at Harbor Freight and the had this.....

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html


On Fleabay I found this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-BSA-ENGINE-BEARING-BUSHING-SEALS-DRIFT-TOOL-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aa0a085a1QQitemZ320522454433QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories



I am thinking of purshasing the HF item, but just want to be sure it is the proper one?  Also, can this same tool be used on something like say,,, the main bearings??



« Last Edit: May 05, 2010, 12:04:15 am by The Garbone »
Gary
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67' Ford Mustang
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95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


pushrod

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I am thinking of purshasing the HF item, but just want to be sure it is the proper one?  Also, can this same tool be used on something like say,,, the main bearings??
 I would be interested in knowing this too.
Pushrod
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Donovan

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HF doesn't show the item I got for sale anymore, but it looked like the one listed on EB, only less fittings. I do not know about main bearing sizes, so I can't say about that.

Cheers,
Donovan


The Garbone

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Very well,,  I will purchase the fleabay item then.... More bits and pieces in that one anyway so it looks to be the better deal.....

Thanks for the response..
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *