Author Topic: Kicked it this morning, kicked back with a loud sound in the engine. Now locked (Read 13946 times)

boulevard · **on:** November 18, 2009, 03:57:30 pm

Well I am back. . . I had a few great weeks of enfield riding bliss.

Here is the story . . .

06 enfield military

About 40 degrees this morning which is cold for Alabama. I went to kickstart the bike and it kicked back just a little before locking. I heard a loud whack in the engine. The kicker will no longer kick. When I push the decompressor it is still not possible to kick. It did not sound like anything broke in there or crunched BUT something definitely pinged and locked.

I just left it alone and headed to work on the Suzuki.

All I could think was I hope it is not expensive.

What do I do? Where do I start?

ace.cafe · **Reply #1 on:** November 18, 2009, 04:52:37 pm

99% chance that the sprag clutch or gears in the electric starter system is broke.

It's common, and is especially likely to occur when the weather gets cold, which puts the jetting into a lean condition, unless it's re-adusted.

So, the likely scenario is that you kicked it, it was lean, so it kicked back causing the engine to try to move backwards, and the sprag clutch can only go in one direction, and it broke.
The sprag clutch is fully engaged 100% of the time. It works sort of like a ratchet-wrench, and can only go one way.
It can break during electric starting or kick starting.
And it can even break if the bike stalls, and the engine tries to go backwards after the stall.

The way to approach this is to remove the primary cover, and inspect all the gears in there, and it's probably got a couple of broken teeth, or the teeth in the sprag clutch itself are damaged.
If the gears are ok, and just the sprag clutch is toast, that's a bit cheaper to repair.
Some people just remove the whole thing, and put the primary back together without the sprag system, and use kick-start only.
Once you do that, it can't break again.

Vince · **Reply #2 on:** November 18, 2009, 05:31:27 pm

Ace is probably right, but the other 1% is easy to check. Pop the tappet cover and /or the valve covers to check the push rods. I've had a couple of bikes with the same symptoms that were traced to a push rod popping off the rocker or tappet and jamming.

boulevard · **Reply #3 on:** November 19, 2009, 05:35:39 pm

That is what I was afraid of! Well I will enjoy taking her apart and learning. I will just remove the sprag clutch.

Probably be after thanksgiving before I can start the project.

I am going to research all the posting on this topic from the past and hopefully be able to get it done.

I know there is a lot of controversy on which tools you need. Talk about a gear puller etc. Ace what tools do you think I need to get the job done?

ace.cafe · **Reply #4 on:** November 19, 2009, 06:05:37 pm

Quote from: boulevard on November 19, 2009, 05:35:39 pm

That is what I was afraid of! Well I will enjoy taking her apart and learning. I will just remove the sprag clutch.

Probably be after thanksgiving before I can start the project.

I am going to research all the posting on this topic from the past and hopefully be able to get it done.

I know there is a lot of controversy on which tools you need. Talk about a gear puller etc. Ace what tools do you think I need to get the job done?

I've only taken one apart myself, and I was able to do it all with normal hand tools
But, some things might need a puller, if they are stubborn.

The only reason that I've even done that one, is that I bought a blown engine for parts, and had to disassemble it, and it was an E-start.

I'm sure you'll get some more detailed responses from many many other people here who's e-starts have blown out.

1Blackwolf1 · **Reply #5 on:** November 19, 2009, 06:20:58 pm

Have you looked into the valve train yet? That way you don't start disassembly for a different problem. I'd check that first, then pop it into gear and try to rotate the engine backwards a bit using the rear tire. Will.

boulevard · **Reply #6 on:** November 19, 2009, 07:29:54 pm

Haha I can't keep from working on this thing. I went home for lunch today and did a little trouble shooting.

I had know idea what a tappet was so I looked it up and I think I know what it is. When I took off the cover I noticed that the right side was moving and that the left side did not move at all.

I put it in gear and tried rocking the bike to see if it would move but nothing happened. I didn't rock it too hard though.

Does this mean that the tappet is stuck? Or is it not supposed to move?

Here is a picture to make sure that I am talking about the right thing. I know it is a terrible picture. I couldn't find my light.

ace.cafe · **Reply #7 on:** November 19, 2009, 07:47:06 pm

Well, by looking at the picture, that pushrod does look like it might be on a funny angle. Hard to tell for sure.
You might wanna have a little more fun, and remove the fuel tank, and remove that rocker cover, and check to see if the pushrod is seated on the little ball end of the rocker arm, like it' supposed to be.
That's pretty easy to do, and it might turn up the answer.
Vince had an inkling about it, and Vince is very experienced with this stuff.
I always pay attention when Vince speaks.
Worth a try to look at the rocker.

Blltrdr · **Reply #8 on:** November 19, 2009, 07:50:55 pm

I did a little work on your pic and it definitely shows the intake pushrod off the tappet. You will want to take your valve cover off your intake side and take a look at the pushrod.

Thanks to Blackwolf for pushing the point again of checking the valvetrain.

ace.cafe · **Reply #9 on:** November 19, 2009, 07:52:08 pm

Good work, Blltrdr!

I couldn't see it on my screen.

You may have "dodged the Bullet", Boulevard!
If that's all it is, you are in the clear.
Maybe check the pushrod for any bends, to be sure it didn't suffer any damage.

Gotta hand it to Vince!
He really nailed that one, right on the button!
Nice work Vince!

1Blackwolf1 · **Reply #10 on:** November 19, 2009, 08:27:33 pm

Listening to Vince and Ace has saved me some serious time and $'s so I tend to look pretty close at things they mention. This happened not too long ago to someone else on the forum. I remembered that post. Kind of like the saying in carpentry measure twice cut once. Will.

Vince · **Reply #11 on:** November 20, 2009, 01:29:48 am

I appreciate the kind words, guys. I hope this is the extent of the trouble. A back fire can cause a push rod to pop off, but until this issue is addressed we are still not sure about the Sprag. An easy test is to remove the push rod and then try to turn the engine over. There can be multiple problems. I suggested this first because it is an easy check and an easy fix. With any luck at all boulevard will be good to go.
I would check valve adjustment on both intake and exhaust. Also check timing, and check for a fouled plug. The object being to avoid or rectify the cause of such a big back fire. The next one may take out the Sprag.

boulevard · **Reply #12 on:** November 20, 2009, 02:20:29 am

Awesome! I am glad to be moving toward getting it fixed. Hopefully this weekend I'll get to it. I know I'll be asking more questions.

Thanks for the help. You guys are gonna make a mechanic out of me.

baird4444 · **Reply #13 on:** November 20, 2009, 04:34:40 am

Man you really dodged a Bullet on this one...
GOOD CALL Vince!!
If you find the rod needs replaced, I've got a spare I'd be glad to send you....
PM me and I'll post it next day...
unless someone closer than Illinois has one... gotta dealer close by?
- Mike

boulevard · **Reply #14 on:** November 20, 2009, 04:47:04 am

Well once again I couldn't wait. I took the tank off and the top cap of the engine and everything looked fine. Both sides looked the same. The pushrod on the right side rotates and te one on the left does not. I'll post some pictures in the morning. I found my light so these ones look better.

It is like something is putting pressure on the rod from the bottom instead of the top. So much pressure that it won't rotate freely.

Geirskogul · **Reply #15 on:** November 20, 2009, 05:37:18 am

Remove the rocker and get it up and off?

PhilJ · **Reply #16 on:** November 20, 2009, 12:17:52 pm

Don't jump the gun. If the engine is not at TDC, you wouldn't expect both push rods to turn. It's really unlikely the when the backfire occurred that the engine stopped at TDC.

boulevard · **Reply #17 on:** November 20, 2009, 02:00:59 pm

okay here are the pictures that will hopefully give some insight

ace.cafe · **Reply #18 on:** November 20, 2009, 02:13:43 pm

Okay, as Phil says, if you are not at TDC on the compression stroke, then it is possible there might be a little pressure on the intake valve, if the cam is trying to start opening it.

In fact, it looks to me that the top photo you just posted shows that the intake valve is open.
And that would be why it won't turn.

So, you need to get that engine rotated to where the pushrods are both fully down, and then adjust them. That is at the point of TDC at the top of the compression stroke.

So,turn the engine to the proper TDC location, and then adjust the pushrods.

If you don't know how to find TDC like we're talking about, then just ask how.

boulevard · **Reply #19 on:** November 20, 2009, 02:45:09 pm

Tell me if this is wrong . . . . Okay I understand that I need to loosen the pushrod in order to get it back lined up properly. After alignment I will need to get the pushrods back to being properly adjusted. The way to do that is to adjust it when the engine is in TDC.

I have no Idea what TDC is and I don't know how to tell If my engine is in TDC. Heck I don't know how to get it to TDC if its not there already.

After I get the engine to TDC i guess I will tighten the pushrod back to where it fits snugly.

PhilJ · **Reply #20 on:** November 20, 2009, 03:05:11 pm

At this stage you still can't determine what is keeping your engine from turning.

The easiest thing at this point would be to pull the primary cover off and see if you see any obvious damage to the sprag. If not then try to work on the valve. Need to solve one problem at a time when possible.

ace.cafe · **Reply #21 on:** November 20, 2009, 03:12:38 pm

I'm not clear on what the full situation is right now.

Can the engine be moved around now, or not?

boulevard · **Reply #22 on:** November 20, 2009, 03:42:30 pm

Man I wish I just had you guys in my garage. I need to know what TDC is. I don't know how to move the engine around.

How would go about moving the engine around? Put it in gear and move the back wheel? Or try to move the kicker?

The kicker is stuck and when you put it in gear and try rocking the bike it acts like a bike in gear and doesn't want to move.

boulevard · **Reply #23 on:** November 20, 2009, 04:22:14 pm

A new discovery that might help. Probably just make you laugh.

When I pull the clutch and the decompressor the kicker is able to move. I know that is probably an obvious thing but just in case it isn't I thought I would post it.

Are we all still in agreement that the left pushrod was jammed?

Blltrdr · **Reply #24 on:** November 20, 2009, 05:17:30 pm

1. Are you in neutral when you try to rock the bike? 2. Does your kickstand raise your rear wheel off the ground? If not you will need to raise it by putting a block under it. 3. After it's raised put the gearbox in top gear, this will make it easier to rotate. I would remove the spark plug and carefully try to rotate the wheel around in either direction, it takes a little muscle but not to much to get it to rotate. 4. If you do get it to rotate listen for a wheeze through the carb and then some air being pushed out of the plug hole, this will be your piston making its way to the top of it's stroke and by putting a piece of thick wire (clothes hanger) or a screwdriver into the plug hole you will be able to gauge the top of the stroke. 5. If you don't get it to rotate you might check the inside of the primary for any sprag damage as Phil pointed out earlier.

It still looks like something isn't right with your intake pushrod. How much does it move around? Does it make contact with the tappet?

Be patient Boulevard there will be a conclusion to your problem soon and whatever problem is found there enough knowledgeable forum members to help you through whatever your needs.

ace.cafe · **Reply #25 on:** November 20, 2009, 06:03:13 pm

Quote from: boulevard on November 20, 2009, 04:22:14 pm

Are we all still in agreement that the left pushrod was jammed?

Yes, it was jammed and off the tappet, but we don't know for sure if that was the only thing wrong.

UncleErnie · **Reply #26 on:** November 20, 2009, 06:31:39 pm

TDC= Top Dead Center; when the piston is at it's highest point in the "Suck Squeeze Bang Blow" cycle. First- take out the spark plug. I find it's easier to find TDC by putting the tranny in high gear and sort of bumping/bouncing/rotating the rear wheel.
Since you yave the rocker covers off, you can tell when you're at TDC when they're both in the same position. Otherwise, use a dowel sticking out of the plug hole -AND HANG ON TO IT so you don't drop it into the cylinder. When the dowel sticks out the most, that's TDC and both valve lifters will rotate by finger pressure. If only one rotates (usually the exhaust valve in my experience) then you got a fake TDC.

The Garbone · **Reply #27 on:** November 20, 2009, 09:45:55 pm

Personally, since you have the rockers covers off I would remove the rear (intake) rocker block and push rod. The valve should spring back into place.

If the valve does not pop back up when you remove the rocker block you dropped your intake valve seat or bent the valve stem and the piston is hitting on the valve and not allowing the engine to turn. You will need to pull the head and fix that valve, possible replace the head at that point..

If the valve pops back up and you can still not turn the engine you sprag is nuked. You will have to pull the primary off and remove the sprag gearing from the tumor.

Hopefully its the sprag and not the head..

ERC · **Reply #28 on:** November 21, 2009, 12:44:41 am

Sounds like it is a sprag problem. The main tool you'll need is an impact wrench to remove the nuts. It's easy to check the sprag just remove the big middle nut on the primary pull the cover and check for metal pieces. I wouldn't mess anymore with the valve train. With the primary off you can put a wrench on the crank nut and try to rock the motor back and forth to maybe discover what the problem is if the sprag is ok. ERC

boulevard · **Reply #29 on:** November 21, 2009, 06:17:34 pm

This morning I tried to get it to tdc and had a hard time finding something to fit into the spark plug hole. So instead I put it in 5th gear and rotated the back wheel until I could feel both push rods were able to rotate. I found a spot where both were able to rotate.

Does this mean I have te push rods operational and I need to start searching the sprag?

The Garbone · **Reply #30 on:** November 21, 2009, 06:25:55 pm

I would think so...

Blltrdr · **Reply #31 on:** November 21, 2009, 07:00:12 pm

Quote from: boulevard on November 21, 2009, 06:17:34 pm

This morning I tried to get it to tdc and had a hard time finding something to fit into the spark plug hole. So instead I put it in 5th gear and rotated the back wheel until I could feel both push rods were able to rotate. I found a spot where both were able to rotate.

Does this mean I have the push rods operational and I need to start searching the sprag?

When you rotate your wheel do you hear anything that sounds like it is not right? Please read my earlier post, Boulevard. You want to get it to TDC and then check/adjust your valves, intake spins free with no up & down movement, exhaust spins free no up & down movement. If you haven't done these adjustments before and need help sorting it out feel free to ask some questions. Just be patient the adjustments can take a couple tries to dial it in. If you have points, check your gap at this time also.

1Blackwolf1 · **Reply #32 on:** November 21, 2009, 07:30:29 pm

Agree with the check and adjust pushrods and points. I'm still unclear as to the condition of both pushrods at this point. Did you check to see if they appear straight since you can now turn them? May want to remove the rocker blocks and pull the pushrods and verify straightness before further surgical procedures.

I'd probably also still open the primary and see if something exploded in the sprague arena. I believe you just did the clutch, something might have bound up to give you this problem. Will.

Blltrdr · **Reply #33 on:** November 21, 2009, 07:55:56 pm

Quote from: 1Blackwolf1 on November 21, 2009, 07:30:29 pm

Agree with the check and adjust pushrods and points. I'm still unclear as to the condition of both pushrods at this point. Did you check to see if they appear straight since you can now turn them? May want to remove the rocker blocks and pull the pushrods and verify straightness before further surgical procedures.

I'd probably also still open the primary and see if something exploded in the sprague arena. I believe you just did the clutch, something might have bound up to give you this problem. Will.

Will good point to check for straightness, but he should be able to tell by spinning them installed. A badly bent rod would show up immediately as you spin it around you would see it lope. I would look for a heavy lope because I don't know if any of these pushrods are completely straight from the factory anyway and a very small lope may be present even on a brand new motor. He should try to do the least amount of tear down as possible to solve this problem. I would hate to see him strip something out or compound his problems by unneeded removal of parts.

1Blackwolf1 · **Reply #34 on:** November 21, 2009, 08:32:02 pm

Suppose that might be safer approach at this point. Forget that he is still in the learning stages of Enfield ownership. Will.

Vince · **Reply #35 on:** November 21, 2009, 10:19:07 pm

Boulevard, don't fret over TDC. This means top dead center, the highest point of piston travel. Instead watch either push rod as you rotate the wheel/engine in 5th gear. Find where the push rod/ lifter is at the LOWEST position. Adjust it there. Now rotate again until the other push rod is at its lowest position. Then adjust that one. Now try to start it and listen for other noises. More and more it sounds as if you will have to go into the Sprag. But always do your diagnostics one step at a time, starting with the simplest. Any other way is a crap shoot. If you guess right you can feel like a genius. Most people at best, merely wind up doing more than they need to.

boulevard · **Reply #36 on:** November 22, 2009, 02:11:35 am

Well I have good and bad news. The push rods do not spear to be bent. I believe they adjuted correctly. I thought hmmm I wonder if the kicker is still stuck. Sure enough it was no longer stuck. So I started the bike and she started up just like normal. No wierd sounds. So I took her for a spin. Got the usual hey nice bike at the stop light. I am feeling on top of the world. Everything runs and sounds great.

Then I start to adjust the garage to get ready to leave on vacation making it nearly impossible to steal any of my bikes. I'm crazy like that. I noticed a little red fluid on the floor. The primary was leaking oil. So I inspected further and found a small crack up towards the front not on the cover but on the piece the cover covers.

Aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh I'll post a picture soon. The crack is very small but the primary is leaking quite a bit from the whole seal. I do have another gasket I can put on but that crack. Aaaaaaaahhhh

boulevard · **Reply #37 on:** November 22, 2009, 03:22:12 am

I need to learn to type. The crack is on the front of the primary. Not on the primary cover. It is on the part the cover covers : ) if that makes sense. I'm headed to new Mexico for thanksgiving and will have to get to it when I get back. The whole time I'm gone I will be pondering the enfield repair.

Blltrdr · **Reply #38 on:** November 22, 2009, 03:38:53 am

Sounds like your inner primary is cracked. I would try to seal it with JB Weld or something similar. Pic of the crack would help evaluate how bad it is. I'm glad you got it running without to much work. Did you have to make any adjustments to get it running?

boulevard · **Reply #39 on:** November 22, 2009, 03:52:16 am

No I didn't have to make any. It seemed to be adjusted properly. It will be interesting to see inside the primary. It is wierd that the pushrod popped out of alignment and on the other side of the engine the inner primary has a small crack. I don't think the crack was there before because it did not leak.

Geirskogul · **Reply #40 on:** November 22, 2009, 05:52:23 am

when you seal it up with JB weld be sure to clean it real well, rough up the surface around the crack a bit, and try to "inject" or push a bit into the crack. And don't use JB Quik - the normal 24-hour-cure stuff is stronger once cured. I've seen it on engine blocks where it's lasted 100,000 miles etc etc

I know you say you're heading on a trip but we can get a stack of pointers for you to do when you come back.

1Blackwolf1 · **Reply #41 on:** November 22, 2009, 06:48:05 am

Going to have to open up the primary for sure. Something either slapped the cover (primary chain), or exploded in a shrap metal fit (sprag drive). That would be my 2 guesses on the cause of the cracked inner primary. Will.

ace.cafe · **Reply #42 on:** November 22, 2009, 04:31:24 pm

Quote from: 1Blackwolf1 on November 22, 2009, 06:48:05 am

Going to have to open up the primary for sure. Something either slapped the cover (primary chain), or exploded in a shrap metal fit (sprag drive). That would be my 2 guesses on the cause of the cracked inner primary. Will.

I agree with will.
Something happened on that kickback that was violent enough to crack the primary case.
That's not a good sign.
Investigation would be called for.

UncleErnie · **Reply #43 on:** November 22, 2009, 05:12:11 pm

Drain the primary oil and leave a cookie pan under it ro you may come home to a messy surprice.

On a personal note regarding valves; Billtrdr says he makes his exhast valve a little tighter? On all my other bikes, the exhaust valve is a hair looser, so I've been doing that on the Musketball. Have I been incorrect there?

Vince · **Reply #44 on:** November 22, 2009, 05:16:54 pm

Absolutely! Ace and Will are right. If you had not found and fixed the push rod issue, you would have caused other problem when you tried to start it up after fixing the Sprag. That is why I recommended this diagnostic path. I know it took longer, but it got you to the point where you can now fully diagnose the Sprag problem. You may have to replace the case. Carefully inspect the the mounting boss for the Sprag shaft for any cracking or mis-alignment. This will not be repairable. If, however, a chunk of metal merely blew a hole in the wide outer part of the case, you can weld that up. Email me vince@vincesmc.com, and I will send you info on the modification I do to minimize the chance of another failure.
After the repair remember to fully tune and service the engine before starting. Most kick backs of this magnitude involve an out of tune engine.

ace.cafe · **Reply #45 on:** November 22, 2009, 07:08:47 pm

Quote from: UncleErnie on November 22, 2009, 05:12:11 pm

Drain the primary oil and leave a cookie pan under it ro you may come home to a messy surprice.

On a personal note regarding valves; Billtrdr says he makes his exhast valve a little tighter? On all my other bikes, the exhaust valve is a hair looser, so I've been doing that on the Musketball. Have I been incorrect there?

Ernie,
Your method is not uncommon, and it does leave the exhaust valve on the seat longer, for better cooling of the valve.
So, it could be considered sort of a safety measure, when done within reason.

However, the expansion of the head is a little bigger on the exhaust side, due to heat, and this may be enough to give it that extra thou clearance all by itself, although I never really tried measuring that.

Running the exhaust valve a little tighter may be an attempt to quiet it down a bit, because of that expansion.

FWIW, I make mine both the same.
The clatter does not bother me a bit, and I feel it gets enough seat time with the normal settings.
IMO.

Blltrdr · **Reply #46 on:** November 22, 2009, 08:29:02 pm

Quote from: ace.cafe on November 22, 2009, 07:08:47 pm

Ernie,
Your method is not uncommon, and it does leave the exhaust valve on the seat longer, for better cooling of the valve.
So, it could be considered sort of a safety measure, when done within reason.

However, the expansion of the head is a little bigger on the exhaust side, due to heat, and this may be enough to give it that extra thou clearance all by itself, although I never really tried measuring that.

Running the exhaust valve a little tighter may be an attempt to quiet it down a bit, because of that expansion.

FWIW, I make mine both the same.
The clatter does not bother me a bit, and I feel it gets enough seat time with the normal settings.
IMO.

I probably shouldn't have explained the valve adjustment in that manner. I had read of doing the valve adjustment with the exhaust valve being a bit tighter and tried it, first adjusting it cold then checking it hot and it seemed to work fine, no noticeable difference in rotational movement. I'm not sure of how much if any it quieted the motor. But I will say now after reading Ernie's & Ace's comments that adjusting the valves equally is most likely the safest bet and to strictly adhere to that method. Something that has worked for me or others might not be the case for the next person. I also will update my earlier post to show the adjustments being equal for both valves.

boulevard · **Reply #47 on:** December 02, 2009, 04:07:59 am

Hey everyone, I am back on the other side of America and can't wait to get the enfield repaired.

I opened up the primary tonight and found a few pieces of metal in the bottom on the Sprag clutch side. It looks like the sprag is dead. Now for the removal. . . aaaah I can't belive I am going to do this.

So I take out the clutch and the alternator . . . somehow that will allow me to get the inner primary off which will then allow me to get to the sprag. This is all guessing from looking at it.

Is there a previous post that outlines this process?

The Garbone · **Reply #48 on:** December 02, 2009, 04:42:28 am

Here is a thread I made when I hit a snag doing mine...

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,3313.0.html

It seems most people have one or two little hangups along the way. Just dive in and ask before you break something.

Look at the bright side.. When I did mine I replaced the inner primary. That involved getting the gears machined and tapping new holes in the engine case. A learning experience but not all that fun.. All you have to do is remove the guts and seal the tumor, easy.

boulevard · **Reply #49 on:** December 03, 2009, 07:38:28 am

The job is complete!!!!! I started at 9 pm and finished at 1. I jb welded the crack in the inner primary. I can't believe I am taking apart stuff like this. My wife walked in the garage and just turned around as if she didn't believe in my skills. Whose got skills now. Haha.

The job was easy.... More intimidating than difficult. With every piece I dissasembled I kept thinking surely I am getting close to the end. I used someones idea of getting out a sheet pan for all the parts. Lots of parts.

I didn't need any special tools. It was tricky to remove the nut that hold the clutch on because it kept spinning. I wedged a screwdriver somehow between something to get it to stay still. The woodruff key was a booger to get out. I didn't remove the chain. Just slid the clutch and gear out at the same time. The bolt that hold the alternator on was tight but loosened when I locked the clutch side from spinning.

The actual teeth on the gear that connects to the chain broke off. Wow. Must be cheap. All the other broken sprags I have seen have had another piece broken. I'll try to upload pictures tomorrow. Sheesh. The backfire wasn't even that bad. Or so it seemed.

I have had my enfield for a month or so and I have now disected nearly every part if you include my other two endevors. I can't imagine what could break next. Hopefully It was just the 2000 mile marker that eerything decided to go. This is my favorite bike I have ever had for some strange reason. How can I like a bike that keeps breaking? Who knows?

Well... off to bed. Just had to post my success.

Geirskogul · **Reply #50 on:** December 03, 2009, 08:11:40 am

I've thought about it like this, for the new bikes anyway:

Run it in the first year/2,000 miles, and whatever will break will break. From thereon out you're golden until the first rebuild, which comes between 10,000 and 40,000 miles, and between rebuilds it's wear parts and that's it.

That's the impression I get from the forum problem list, with mine and others combined.

I also kind of understand that's how old, old bikes were, too. Unless you had something like a Brough Superior, that Pope or Norton or BSA will break things in the first 2,000-5,000 miles, but whatever doesn't break is a keeper.

1Blackwolf1 · **Reply #51 on:** December 04, 2009, 03:30:16 am

Quote from: boulevard on December 03, 2009, 07:38:28 am

The job is complete!!!!! I started at 9 pm and finished at 1. I jb welded the crack in the inner primary. I can't believe I am taking apart stuff like this. My wife walked in the garage and just turned around as if she didn't believe in my skills. Whose got skills now. Haha.

The job was easy.... More intimidating than difficult. With every piece I dissasembled I kept thinking surely I am getting close to the end. I used someones idea of getting out a sheet pan for all the parts. Lots of parts.

I didn't need any special tools. It was tricky to remove the nut that hold the clutch on because it kept spinning. I wedged a screwdriver somehow between something to get it to stay still. The woodruff key was a booger to get out. I didn't remove the chain. Just slid the clutch and gear out at the same time. The bolt that hold the alternator on was tight but loosened when I locked the clutch side from spinning.

The actual teeth on the gear that connects to the chain broke off. Wow. Must be cheap. All the other broken sprags I have seen have had another piece broken. I'll try to upload pictures tomorrow. Sheesh. The backfire wasn't even that bad. Or so it seemed.

I have had my enfield for a month or so and I have now disected nearly every part if you include my other two endevors. I can't imagine what could break next. Hopefully It was just the 2000 mile marker that eerything decided to go. This is my favorite bike I have ever had for some strange reason. How can I like a bike that keeps breaking? Who knows?

Well... off to bed. Just had to post my success.

Now you know why we say an Enfield turns any man into a mechanic. Will.

boulevard · **Reply #52 on:** December 04, 2009, 06:26:02 am

I know this post is getting long but I have one more issue to sort. If you recall at the beginning of this post I had a problem with a stuck valve or pishrod or something.

The bike started just fine this morning in 35 degree weather. At lunch it kicked back and wouldn't start. When it did start it felt like it wanted to die so I kept on the throttle A little. This evening after work same think. Spent about 20 minutes tying to get it to start. Kicking back and not even almost turning over. When it finally did start it wasn't due to anything different that I could tell.

Is my timing off? Valves need to be adjusted? It was running with no backfires 2 weeks ago in 40 degree weather. Does 10 degrees make that much difference.

I feel like the engine sounds a little more clanky than before but that could be because the sprag is removed maki g things quieter which then causes me to hear things never heard before.

So wierd that 2 weeks ago it started on first or second kick and now on kick number 30+

The Garbone · **Reply #53 on:** December 04, 2009, 12:00:10 pm

It almost sounds like a fuel feed issue. My bike gets all goofy at startup, kicks back ect, when it is low on gas. Your air screw might need adjustment or something in the has crud in it. The carb issue probably caused the kick back that did your sprag..