Author Topic: Loud Valves????  (Read 16786 times)

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alwscout

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on: July 12, 2007, 10:54:56 pm
How loud are the valves supposed to sound? I have about 380 miles on my '06 Bullet Classic and maybe I'm hearing ghosts but it seems that once she gets warmed up and I'm running 40mph or so I hear some pretty significant noise. It's hard to describe using a keyboard but it seems to come and go .

I had an old airboat with a 1969 Continental 0470 aircraft engine that had a case of loud lifters and this sounds really similar. It never hurt my A/C motor but that's apples and oranges I know.

Any ideas?

Adam
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Charro

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Reply #1 on: July 12, 2007, 11:56:23 pm
Adam, how loud is too loud? Good question, each bike is different. They do  get a bit louder when bike is hot. Only way to be sure is to check the valves. Very easy to do, chime in if you need help.

Andy
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alwscout

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Reply #2 on: July 13, 2007, 12:07:00 am
OK Andy, CHIME :D

What am I looking for? The manual doesn't do a very good job IMO and my copy of Mr. Snidal's book hasn't arrived yet so I really don't know what I'm looking for to determine if it's good or bad.

Thanks.

Adam
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deejay

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Reply #3 on: July 13, 2007, 04:03:31 am
its either your valves or its knocking due to bad timing. both easily adjusted, probably just your valves. the valves are under the 10mm acorn nut cover on the rt side of your engine. take that cover off (oil will drool out a bit) and also remove the stud to easily access the valve adjustments. put your engine a tdc by slowly kicking over and waiting til the meter just flicks to 0. then check your pushrods by trying to move them up and down or from side to side. if there is any movement, then they are too loose. they should spin freely with the flick of a finger but should not move up and down. the exhaust side should be a bit looser. I'll try to explain how to adjust the rods, but to be honest, I didn't understand how to do it until I actually got my hands dirty... you'll need two 13mm open ended box wrenches and a 10mm one as well. Back off the 10mm nut, adjust tightness of the valve then retighten the 10mm nut which holds everything in place. Its a tight fit to get the wrenches in there, some grind down the sides of their wrenches to fit better.

hope that helps, good luck!


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #4 on: July 13, 2007, 03:30:46 pm
We don't sell T-shirts that say "Loud Valves Save Lives" for no reason. DeeJays advice is good advice.
http://www.royalenfieldusa.com/royal-enfield-tshirt-vintage-rider-black-series-loud-valves-p-6531.html
Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
www.cyclesidecar.com


Charro

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Reply #5 on: July 13, 2007, 06:07:44 pm
Deejay and Kevin beat me to the punch. Thats what I get  for going to work. Anyways what they said.  Cold engine+TDC-+should twirl freely with no up and down slack=easy to work on RE. Also no need to grind down a good wrench.  You can  unscrew the cover mounting stud, that will give you plenty of working room. Just dont over tighten when you put it back on.

Its good that you have the Snidal manual on order. I also recommend the Super Manual and parts manual, all three work well together. I got them at CMW.

Andy
« Last Edit: July 13, 2007, 06:21:24 pm by Charro »
2014 Royal Enfield C5
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2004 Triumph Speed Four
2001 Triumph Bonneville
2006 Triumph Scrambler
1998 Triumph Speed Triple
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"Tell me what kind of horse you want to ride. I'll tell you what kind of rider you are." (Old Mexican proverb)


deejay

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Reply #6 on: July 13, 2007, 08:22:24 pm
Also no need to grind down a good wrench.  You can  unscrew the cover mounting stud, that will give you plenty of working room. Just dont over tighten when you put it back on.

You must have got a good cast, because I can't fit a wrench in there to save my life, even with the stud removed. Apparently someone forgot to grind off the extra metal on my bike at the factory (only on the exhaust side though). I don't mind grinding down a cheap wrench and keeping it in my RE toolbox.  ;D


dewjantim

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Reply #7 on: July 14, 2007, 06:49:30 pm
If you warm up your engine, then adjust your pushrods until they are difficult to turn with your fingers you will have quiet valves. I got this little tip from a RE website (I forget which one) and my bike has run quietly for the last 3700 miles with no need for an adjustment. The bike usually starts first kick, without choke, and runs great getting 100 MPG. Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!


alwscout

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Reply #8 on: July 15, 2007, 12:32:30 am
I checked them out per your instructions andc everything looks spot on. Guess it's probably normal. I'll have to remember that sound level so if it gets louder I'll know to stop and check things out.

Thanks gang!

Adam
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RagMan

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Reply #9 on: July 17, 2007, 01:10:00 am
My valves are truly loud..  even straight from the dealer, after service, and when it was extensively worked on...  The valves are just plain noisy..  Many years ago, when living in northern Scotland, I had an RE, that also had very noisy valves.
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DaveG297

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Reply #10 on: July 21, 2007, 04:31:05 am
If you warm up your engine, then adjust your pushrods until they are difficult to turn with your fingers you will have quiet valves. I got this little tip from a RE website (I forget which one) and my bike has run quietly for the last 3700 miles with no need for an adjustment. The bike usually starts first kick, without choke, and runs great getting 100 MPG. Dew.


DaveG297

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Reply #11 on: July 21, 2007, 04:32:45 am
That website that tells a great deal about setting the valves is Cybersteering.com..........its and India site is is great to read the indepth stuff about our bikes.........dg


dewjantim

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Reply #12 on: July 24, 2007, 05:38:05 pm
That website that tells a great deal about setting the valves is Cybersteering.com..........its and India site is is great to read the indepth stuff about our bikes.........dg
Has anyone else but me tried this method. If so, let us know how it worked for you. Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!


justin_o_guy

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Reply #13 on: July 24, 2007, 11:41:41 pm
That Cybersteering.com covers a lot of territory. Could you refer me to the specific section that explains the valve adjustment?


dewjantim

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Reply #14 on: July 25, 2007, 04:56:43 pm
That Cybersteering.com covers a lot of territory. Could you refer me to the specific section that explains the valve adjustment?
You will have to ask Dave about that. I don't think I have ever been to that website, unless it was from a link on another site. Haven't had to adjust those valves for about 3 years. It sure worked for me. As a matter of fact, I haven't done anything to my bike for the past 3 years except ride it, sometimes hard, and change the oil and lube the cables, check air in tires (they didn't need any, must be those thick India tubes), and put in gas. I got one of those "duck-bill breathers" which deposits oil vapor from the engine on your chain and haven't had to lube "or" adjust the chain since I got it. These are available from RE USA for under $10.00 and are worth $100 to me. I would suggest that everyone get one of these babies. Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!