Author Topic: Electronic Ignition Installation  (Read 5963 times)

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gemini641

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on: July 12, 2007, 09:00:18 pm
Hi, Kevin,

I installed the OEM RE electronic ignition on my 2005 RE Bullet Deluxe a
couple of days ago, following the "updated" instruction sheet provided
by you all. I did, however, use a  head gauge to set the timing at .8mm
BTDC. It ran fine right out of the box.

However, I found that the engine kill switch had been taken out of
circuit by removing the black/red (blue/white) wire to the old contact
points. Using a multimeter and the wiring diagram in my service manual,
I determined that by removing the red/black wire from the coil VE (-)
and connecting it to the black/red wire previously going to the points,
the bike ran fine and the kill switch was back in the circuit. The brown
wire from the ignition module is the only one connected to VE.

The only thing I haven't been able to determine is whether or not the
timing is "right on". I know I have to turn the timing plate clockwise
or CCW, but how do I know where it's right? Is there a certain sound or
"feel" that I'm looking for? I'd appreciate your input.

Thanks,

Tom


Rockdodger

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Reply #1 on: July 13, 2007, 12:50:02 am
Tom,
I believe you have the same ignition that I installed a couple of years ago. Thanks for the tip on making the kill switch functional again.
With the electronic ignition, you can no longer time an RE statically, as with points. The old-timers recommend you time it by advancing the timing until you hear pinging on acceleration. That works fine if you are a youngster who still has good hearing. After frying a piston, I decided to time mine dynamically. I found a link to some pretty good instructions that I believe were for the Boyer unit. (Unfortunately I can't find it now.) It involved locating tdc on the compression stroke and using a degree wheel to mark tdc and 32 degrees btdc on the alternator. To find tdc use a probe thru the spark plug hole to find the same distance (e.g 1/4 inch) before and after tdc. Then, with the piston at exact tdc,  use the degree wheel to mark a point on the rotating part of the alternator and another point at 32 degrees clockwise on a stationary point on the alternator. (I used a twisted pair of alternator windings for the stationary point.) Drilling small holes at zero degrees and 32 degrees btdc on the degree wheel was helpfull in making permanent marks. Once you have the marks, hook up a timing light and fire up the engine with the primary cover off. Rev the motor above 2000 rpm for full mechanical advance. Rotate the distributor plate until the marks on the alternator line up. Forget about your ignition for the next 30 years!
Good luck,
Larry
2004 Bullet 65 Magic Black
1999 Honda XR 400R


gemini641

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Reply #2 on: July 19, 2007, 04:27:10 pm
Thanks, Larry...

I'm about to try the system you suggested but I have 2 questions: Where did the 32 degrees come from (Is that the same as .8mm)? and Shouldn't  the 32 degree mark be counterclockwise on the stator rather than clockwise? I got myself a little confused trying to visualize it...

Tom


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #3 on: July 25, 2007, 11:48:14 pm
0.8mm is the distance that the piston should be before top dead center (BTDC) when it fires at idle. As the rpm of the engine increases the automatic centrifugal advance unit located in the distributor will move the time that the spark fires to about 32 degrees before TDC. As a practical matter most of us do the best that we can and call it good. A rule of thumb says that if it doesn't ping or detonate at heavy throttle with a load on a hot day it is not too advanced. Another way to tell if yourtiming is too advanced is if it kicks back when you kick start it.
Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
www.cyclesidecar.com


Rockdodger

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Reply #4 on: July 27, 2007, 04:03:21 am
Tom,
Hope Kevin's expert answer clarified my instructions on the amount of advance to use for dynamic timing.  As best I can recall my stationary 32 degree BTDC mark was to the right (Clockwise) from the rotating TDC mark. As you rev the motor to full advance with the timing light pointed at them the rotating one moves toward the stationary mark. Just turn the distributor plate until they line up at anything over 2000 rpm. Although the "listening for pinging on accelleation" method didn't work for me, plenty of folks who never raced 2-strokes with open expansion chambers swear by the method. All I can say is "Huh?"
Larry
2004 Bullet 65 Magic Black
1999 Honda XR 400R


gemini641

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Reply #5 on: August 01, 2007, 04:40:24 pm
Kevin and Larry:

Thanks for the good info. I'll do the timing marks as part of the reassembly of the bike. See "Sprague Clutch woes" posted on the forum.

As you can guess, I've gotten real gun shy about advancing the ignition...hahahaha!!!

Tom