[Rick Sperko]

Broke my third clutch cable this morning on the way into work. This was the premium cable, with two months and just over a 1000 miles. This one broke at the handle. Left the nub in place but the cable itself was shredded. Any suggestions on what I could have done wrong, it seems pretty clear cut for the installation.

I am getting quicker at replacing them. It took me 15 minutes and could have taken less easily.

-Rick

[ace.cafe]

Well, I probably can't tell you anything about it that you don't already know.

But, for that situation you described above, it is very important that the barrel in the lever can rotate freely, and is well-greased.
I know that's a very basic answer, but it's very important.
I lube my cables alot more often than Iube my chain.

[Rick Sperko]

Just got off the phone with Tim at CMW, they are taking care of me. Great company to deal with IMHO. Plus I get more practice changing it! Soon I will submit an application to join Westy72's pit crew.

I will grease the barrel on this cable like nobody's business. I lube my cables a couple times a year, I wish it were easier. I make a mess every time I do it. I have one of the cable lube devices, but the lube shoots right out around the part of the cable coming through the top, or flows down the sleeve. I feel like I get maybe 10% inside the sleeve. I really don't want to take all the cables off every time I lube them.

-Rick

[The Garbone]

Is there a burr or rough spot in the lever assembly? Probably just  bad luck. 

My original throttle cable frayed on the carb end for no real reason,   had to replace it at about 2k miles.

[mbevo1]

I heard RE changed the actuating lever for '07... don't know if that's true, but the original cable on my '07 has gone 3 + seasons and 10K miles...

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan

[Vince]

     Rick, those cable lube tools work great. To handle the dribbling I simply wrap a rag around it. Make sure you have removed all the burrs in the lever, perch,and adjuster at the handlebar, as well as at the actuator in the case. The cable  must move freely.
     Don't use grease or any thick, heavy lube. These get pasty and tend to hold grit. this adds to stress. Dry lubes such as graphite clump up with any hint of moisture and have the same issues.
    If you don't have a genuine motorcycle specific cable lube,  just use WD-40. WD works great in this application.. Also, every 2 or 3 or 4 weeks hose down the upper end of the cable with the WD. Aim the nozzle into the opening where the inner cable exits the outer housing. Work the lever in and out as you squirt. A lot of lube will work it's way into the cable.

[1Blackwolf1]

  FWIW grease the clutch handle pivot bolt while you're replacing the cable.  Also grease the end going into the transmission.  When I cleaned all the crap out of my clutches awile ago I greased the throw out rod inside the clutch basket.  Pulls like butter with better feel and release now.  Will.

[Hellbender]

9000 miles. On my third clutch cable and second throttle cable.

[woodboats]

Is there a service time period when you should be changing your cables?
I have original cabels at 11,000 km.

[mrunderhill1975a]

Ace is right on.  I think I have only used 2 cables in 16000 miles.

[sopwithdriver]

Three clutch cables and 3 throttle cables to date with 7500 on the bike. I dont sweat it anymore just cary two of each. Mine are well lubed and no burs I can see or find with panty hose. Done the relieving bit down in the gear box as well. Who knows, part of the fun I guess.Roger

[chris-bartlett]

I'm currently stuck at the side of the road with a snapped clutch cable at 7500 miles. First time since I got it over a year ago.  I was bad and hadn't lubed it in a while.  Too bad my spare is at home! Ah well, good thing the weather's nice and my iPhone works! The bike has been running/shifting like tasty butter lately since  I mastered the transmission adjuster screw and the neutral finder bolt. Sorry to hear about yours Rick, but the tips on this thread have been helpful as always.

  

[Vince]

     I am not recommending this for regular use, but you can shift without a clutch. Starting and stopping are a real pain, but once you get moving it's not too bad. The trick is to keep RPM moderate- not too fast, not too slow- and back off the throttle when you shift. Load the shifter with your toe and back off the throttle. Down shifts require more force than up shifts.
     Use this technique only if you are really stuck somewhere.

[REpozer]

Maybe a Ridley MC is in the future.