[ace.cafe]

Well guys, I finally got the weatherproof electric fan system done for the Ace Oil Cooler.
This is really ideal for the city riders who sometimes get stuck in traffic, and need to move some air thru the oil cooler when they are idling in traffic, and heating up.

It went together real well, and I'm happy with the outcome.
The fan only adds 1 inch to the profile of the cooler package, and is in keeping with the compact nature of the design

It takes alot more work to do this one, because there are mountings involved, and more cutting and drilling and fitting. But it's nice.
This option will add $100 to the price of the basic cooler, coming to $175 total.
The waterproof muffin fans are expensive, but they are made to hold up to outdoor weather conditions. You can use a regular indoor muffin fan if you want, but I don't think it'll last too long outside in the weather. But, it's cheaper in the short term, but you'll be replacing them,  I think the waterproof one is cheaper in the long run.

All you have to do with this is make simple mounts to your frame downtube with some circle clamps and some bolts, and it's mounted. Or you could mount it to your engine-mount bolts with some simple L-brackets, or you could mount it to your crash bar with some muffler U-clamps.
It's about as easy as it gets, and still allow flexibility for mounting locations.
And I did the hard part of putting the basic strut-mounts onto the cooler.
I located the strut-mounts centrally, so that it hangs relatively evenly-weighted on the mounts, fore and aft of the aluminum angle stock pieces. The angle stock is good and strong because of that L-shape it has. It's not going anywhere.

Electrical connections are easy as pie.
A red wire for positive, and a black wire for negative. 12vdc.
The fan only draws 3 watts when running. Not going to run your battery low.
The fan runs at 3000 rpms, and pulls 40cfm thru the radiator.

I'm working on an automatic control system to make the system operate passively, but it can be done with a simple manual toggle switch if you want. That would be cheaper.
The additional price for the automatic control option is not yet determined.

The automatic control system that I've ordered some parts for will make it only come on when the oil temp is over 180*F, AND when the bike is not moving.
This way, you don't have to "turn it on". It won't come on when you're starting up cold, because the oil is below 180*F then, and you don't need the fan on. And you don't want the fan on when the bike is moving, because air is getting pushed thru the radiator when you're moving anyway. But, when you are stopped in neutral, AND the oil temps sensor reads over 180*F, then it will turn on and run until you start riding again, and it will automatically turn off until you stop again, or the oil temp drops below 180*F.
I'm using switch-logic in an "and-gate" to handle this automatic control, and it will be simple to hook up.
The parts are a bit expensive for the auto controller, but it's an option that you can buy or not buy, depending on what you want and how much your want to spend.
The simple manual toggle switch is cheap and it works fine, and all you have to do is remember to use it at the appropriate times, and turn it off at the appropriate times.
Nothing at all wrong with doing it that way.

I should have the parts for the automatic control system in by the end of next week, if the shipment arrives by then. They can't ship till Tuesday because of the holiday, so that might push it off till after next weekend if the stuff doesn't get here.
Anyway, I'll be putting that together as soon as I can get parts to do it.

So, here's some pictures of the unit with the waterproof electric fan option all installed and ready to go.

Front view:




Rear view:




Side view:




Top view:


.

[texabilly]

royal enfield should hire you!  amazing.  any pics of what yer latest would look like mounted on the bike?  would you run the lines from splitting the oil feed lines to the rocker boxes?

once again, impressive & thanks for making all our riding a little more reliable!


db

[ace.cafe]

Well, it's raining today, so I couldn't get any pics of it on the bike.
But, it really won't look hardly any different than the cooler without the fan, except that 1" thicker from front to back for the fan added.

Here's a pic of the cooler without the fan on my bike, and you can get the idea.
I took this pic just before I spliced-in the hoses to the oil line, so they aren't attached in this pic.
The one with the fan might have to be about an inch more forward to clear the primary case. Or it could be mounted to the frame down-tube on ES bikes.




And yes, to hook up the hoses to the cooler, you just cut the external oil line to the head, and clamp on the hoses. It doesn't matter which hose goes to which end of the pipe, because the cooler will flow the same in both directions. Just a basic in-line installation.

Here's a pic of the hoses attached to the oil line on a KickStart Bullet.

[Ice]

Excellent ! Br Ace.  Well done. Good on you Sir.

Several of us are waiting with much anticipation for the debut of the auto fan control and the V2.0 spin on oil filter mount .

 I have been looking at my A.C.E. Oil cooler since it arrived and besides the overall quality of the cooler I am struck by two things.

First is the obvious;
 Properly controlling the oils temperature allows high performance and race engines to out put more power without seizure. Of course shedding the extra heat makes our stock motorcycles live much much longer and gives us more room for error.
 I wish your coolers would have been available for Noisymilk's ride.

 Secondly, If this were the year 1959 instead of 2009 those of us modding our I.B. Bullets today would be attempting the same efforts with whatever was available back then.
 
In view of whats currently available I say, thank God these are the new good ol' days.

 AVL and UCE owners, if you wouldn't mind, please post pics of your installations thank you.

[1Blackwolf1]

  You asked and here they are..Will.

[ace.cafe]

I'll explain this auto-control function a little more concisely.

The switch logic that I'm using is called an "and-gate".
This means that there are 2 switches involved, and they both have to be on, in order to make the fan actuate. It's called an "and-gate" because the one switch AND the other switch need to be in the "on" position for the fan to be turned on. And if either one is not in the "on" position, then the fan will not come on.

The way it works is like this.
The main power for the fan is going to come from the neutral light wire. This provides 12v only when the ignition is turned on and the bike is in neutral. And since the fan only draws 3 watts, there's no relay needed and the neutral wire can handle this load just fine.
So, when the neutral light is on, the bike is in neutral and probably not moving, and there will be power available to the oil thermostat switch.
The oil thermostat switch is an in-line thermostatic switch that actuates at 180*F.
So, if the oil temp gets over 180*F, then that switch makes a connection, and if the oil temp is below 180*F, then that switch breaks that connection.
When the bike is in neutral, power comes thru the neutral wire, and feeds it to the thermostatic oil temp switch.
If the oil is over 180*F, then the oil temp switch makes its connection too, and power is fed to the fan, and it turns on and runs.
When you put the bike in gear, the neutral light turns off, so power is broken to the circuit by the neutral light switch, and the fan goes off when you start riding in gear. So, you ride along with the wind going thru the cooler while you ride, and the fan stays off until you come to a stop and put the bike in neutral again.
When this happens, power comes thru the neutral light switch and turns on the fan while you sit at the stoplight or traffic jam.
If at any time, the oil temp drops below 180*F, then the oil temp switch breaks the connection. That means that even if you're in neutral, the fan won't come on because the oil temp isn't too hot, and the oil temp switch keeps the fan off.
At any time the oil temp gets over 180*F, then when you select neutral, the fan will come on while you're stopped.

So, it's an automatic system that will ONLY come on when both conditions are met.
The oil temp must be over 180*F, AND the bike must be in neutral, and then the fan will come on.
If the bike is put in gear, the fan will turn off, and will come back on again when you select neutral at your next stop, IF the oil temp is still over 180*F. If the oil temp has dropped below 180*F, the fan won't come on when you select neutral, because both the neutral light AND the thermostat switch must be in the "on" position in order for the fan to be running.

This satisfies all the conditions necessary. The fan is only wanted when the oil is hot, and when the bike is in neutral at a stop. If either condition is not occurring, then we don't want the fan to come on, and it won't.
So, no user interaction will be needed. It will all be automatic, and it will never come on when it is not wanted, and it will always come on when it is wanted.
That's why it's a "passive auto-control system". All needs are met at the proper circumstances for ideal operation, and no user interaction is necessary at any time.

I"m considering providing a handlebar-mounted LED indicator light, so the rider can see when the fan is on, for a visual confirmation when the fan is running.
Some people might want to know when the oil temp is above 180*F and the fan is on, so I can fairly easily make an indicator LED for alerting the rider of that condition and the fan being on.
I don't know if that's a big deal to people so see a light turn on when the system is active, but I can do it, and it might be a nice feature.

[noisymilk]

Ice....

Me too my friend. Me too.

However, if you'll recall, my actual problem ended up being a jumped push rod. How damn lucky was that??

However....back from my summer on tour. Awaiting a few parts to get oil changed, air filter cleaned, and a new fuel tap (which is unfortunately back ordered....i like the locking one).

So once I am made of money again (right.....) and get my carb to stop seeking and revving, I will be getting the ace air filter and possibly the oil cooler. Which, I must say looks mighty awesome. However, given the heat I ride in, Ace, I might just hook it up to 12 volts and bypass that AND circuitry. Can you foresee and issues with this thought?

I really like all this custom stuff you do man. Very very cool.

-Milk

[ace.cafe]

Ace, I might just hook it up to 12 volts and bypass that AND circuitry. Can you foresee and issues with this thought?

I really like all this custom stuff you do man. Very very cool.

-Milk

Milk,
Yes, the problem with leaving the fan on when riding is that it actually impairs cooling when it's turned-on above a certain(low) road speed.
Riding the bike at road speeds pushes more air thru the cooler than the fan can pull when it's running.
So, the fan running would then effectively become an obstruction behind the radiator,and reducing the ability of the radiator to cool. If the fan is off, it can free-wheel, and as much air can come thru as the road speed will give it.
Additionally, when you first start up the bike cold, you don't want the fan to come on  until the oil temp is hot, so that your oil comes up to temp in a short warm-up period before riding. Having the fan on when the bike is just started would just impair the warm-up functions, and is not needed/wanted during that time.

The radiator alone, without the fan, is just fine and dandy for when you're in motion.
The fan is only needed when the bike is idling at a stop, because there's no airflow thru the radiator when the bike is idling at a stop.
So, if you don't encounter situations where you have traffic jams, or long idling periods like city people do, then the fan system really isn't needed.
But for city people, or those who commute during rush hour times when they might encounter some stop-and-go traffic or traffic jams during hot weather, then this can help to keep the oil more cool during those difficult times when the bike is basically getting no cooling at all, either thru the engine fins or in the oil.
The fan then takes up the task of supplying airflow thru the rad when the bike is not moving, and helps keep the oil at lower temps in situations like traffic jams.

We do have a reasonable number of Bullet owners that live in or near cities, and use the bike for commuting, and who do encounter traffic problems.
This fan system is primarily aimed at those users who see problems from sitting in traffic with a hot engine, and no way to do any cooling during those times. Even the radiator and the fan system are only a partial solution, because without air going thru the engine cooling fins, the engine will eventually overheat anyway. But the radiator with the fan can help to lengthen the time period that they can idle without moving, and keep the lubricating oil at safer temps.

I won't be using the fan system on my own bike. I don't encounter conditions in my area where the fan would be of use to me, personally.
But I recognized that some Bullet riders DO need something like this for their riding conditions, and that's what this product is for, and also why it is an optional thing, and not just included on every oil cooler that I make. Because not everyone needs or wants the added fan capability, nor would they want to pay extra for a feature they don't need for their riding habits.


This is a pretty leading-edge type of product for motorcycles, and there's only one other product out there on the market that I'm aware of, that provides these functions.
It's made for a Harley, and it's quite big, and it isn't vintage looking, and would look totally out of place on our Bullets. But, it's okay  for big Harleys.
And it's expensive. Like $450 expensive!
It does have the radiator bypass function, and I could add that function to my unit, but it starts to get messy with plumbing and might spoil the clean look. That's why the Harley unit has a big plastic housing all around it, to cover up all the mess.
I like my system a whole lot better, and its more compact and vintage looking, with basically the same function.

Here's the only "competition", if you want to call it that.


On their website, they rant and rave about how amazing and new and innovative their Harley fan-cooler is, and how it's "cutting edge" latest technology and blah blah blah.
And it's a nice cooler with a fan and a controller for a Harley.
But I have basically the same thing in a smaller vintage style for a Bullet right here that I make in my work room by hand, one at a time, for way less than half their retail price, and probably about $250 total price once I get my auto-controller on it.
So, we now have the "latest whiz-bang technology" for the old antique Bullet now, in a style that goes with the Bullet, for alot less money, just because some idiot like me decided to build them.
And if you "just gotta have"  a radiator bypass circuit, I can get you one to go on the one I make. It will just add some bulk and extra plumbing work, and cost more money.

[REpozer]

Ultracool FL cutting edge technology for a not so old school H-D.

$450 dollars is nothing , H-D probably sales that to the fair weather weekend crowd  along with curb feelers and chrome add-ons ,like a new car dealer sales undercoating and fabric protector.

Oh would you like to purchase the extended warranty plan for only $99 a month?

[rick505]

Curious.....what kind of oil temps would one expect to see on the Output side of the cooler while riding??  Could a thermal switch be fitted to the output side (I'm expecting it's cooler there-oil cooler after all), that is N.O. and would close when the temp exceeds a set amount completing the fan circuit.  I have a similar one mounted to my gas fireplace that will toggle a circulation fan on after the firebox heats up.  Might make all the electronics a moot point.

Just rambling.

Rick

[ace.cafe]

Curious.....what kind of oil temps would one expect to see on the Output side of the cooler while riding??  Could a thermal switch be fitted to the output side (I'm expecting it's cooler there-oil cooler after all), that is N.O. and would close when the temp exceeds a set amount completing the fan circuit.  I have a similar one mounted to my gas fireplace that will toggle a circulation fan on after the firebox heats up.  Might make all the electronics a moot point.

Just rambling.

Rick

I'd say it's probably about 20 degrees less than the input side.

Yes it's possible to use a switch like you describe, and that's the thermostatic switch part of the controller that I outlined in my post about it.
The other part of the controller is to ensure that the fan never comes on when the bike is moving.

[noisymilk]

Sorry Ace, I was unclear in my explanation of my thoughts. I meant that I thought hooking it up to 12V and merely using the temperature switch only was my idea.

That said, you still answered my thoughts with a very important point. That the fan will not spin faster than air movement at speed, and actually act as a surface...thus interfering worse than if no oil cooler were installed at all, most likely.

Thanks for making the point. Very much.

Here's hoping its through beta soon, so I can start saving and get one. Down here in the desert, its a good idea, even in December.

Take care

-Milk

[ace.cafe]

Sorry Ace, I was unclear in my explanation of my thoughts. I meant that I thought hooking it up to 12V and merely using the temperature switch only was my idea.

That said, you still answered my thoughts with a very important point. That the fan will not spin faster than air movement at speed, and actually act as a surface...thus interfering worse than if no oil cooler were installed at all, most likely.

Thanks for making the point. Very much.

Here's hoping its through beta soon, so I can start saving and get one. Down here in the desert, its a good idea, even in December.

Take care

-Milk

Milk,
For use with a manual switch, it's perfectly feasible to do.
You just manually switch it on or off at the appropriate times.
It doesn't have to be shut down immediately upon beginning to move, It could run until you get up to some convenient road speed and then shut it off. And then put it back on again when you stop  at traffic.
Nothing wrong with manual operation, and it will be less costly.

The automatic controller is made so that the person doesn't have to remember to do it, and operates by sensing the 2 conditions that affect when we want it on or off.

Either way can work just fine.
For a person on a budget, the manual switch is a perfectly fine way to go.

[Royal Bulleteer]

ace.cafe,

Not to be a negative nelly but a question pops to mind.  Those fans probably have a limited number of rotations in their life cycle right?  Maybe like ... 1million?  I really don't know, just guessing.

If the fan free wheels whilst riding won't that theoretically put a physical load on the parts of the little motor that revs the blades?

Just wondering ... Dont own an Enfield (yet) but soon and will definitely be adding the oil cooler option.

[ace.cafe]

ace.cafe,

Not to be a negative nelly but a question pops to mind.  Those fans probably have a limited number of rotations in their life cycle right?  Maybe like ... 1million?  I really don't know, just guessing.

If the fan free wheels whilst riding won't that theoretically put a physical load on the parts of the little motor that revs the blades?

Just wondering ... Dont own an Enfield (yet) but soon and will definitely be adding the oil cooler option.

It's a good question, but no, there's no additional stress put on anything in the motor except maybe for the shaft spinning in the bearing.

This is a brushless DC motor, and nothing touches except the center shaft in the  bearing.  It's all done by inductive magnetic action. And it's all sealed from the elements.

So, it's about as good as can be done in the application. I don't think that there are any other bases that I could have covered, except the controller system, which is coming.