[gunbunny]

When I get stuck in traffic and its stop and go neutral  is really hard to find .the gears just  bounce from  f.irst to second, and I hate to hold the clutch in for long periods .Is this a  clutch adjustment problem ? or do I need to put extra oil in the transmittion?

[UncleErnie]

Older bikes hate to shift while sitting still, anyway.  Could be over-heating some?  Does it matter if it's cold or warm?  What kind of oil ar you using in the 2 sides?

[EnfieldJake]

I've had the same occurrence in my '06 AVL Electra. In order to find neutral, I just got used to shifting into it as I was coasting to a stop. Just a light, half tug/push between 1st and second does it. Problem solved. I have found it's nearly impossible with the engine running to do it at a standstill. I always pass it up that way up or down. Good luck!
Jake

[The Garbone]

I don't really pay much attention to what gear I am in while I ride,  so I usually shift all the way down to first as I coast to a stop, pop it into second and then tap it into neutral. Easy...

[Thumper]

Same as Jake, my '06 Electra X likes to be popped into neutral as I slow to the stop. Even then it still goes too far (up or down) occasionally. I can find neutral at a stop though. It's not easy but it's there.

It's probably not your clutch adjustment. That is also a fairly precise setting (at the handlebar) - but if it's not just right you won't be able to get it out of 1st or 2nd into neutral - it won't budge out of gear. The opposite of your problem. Having said that, I wouldn't rule it out. Just leave the clutch for last.

It might be that you simply have to find that sweet spot and learn to finesse it as best as you can. (I.E., Live with it. It's an RE, silly)

Matt

[1Blackwolf1]

  Comparing the designs of the iron and avl engine I think I may have figured out the shifting problem.  My iron is ann easy tap into nuetral from 2nd or 1st.  Wifeys Electra is sometomes a real PIA.  I've concluded that the iron barrel has al ittle more harmonic vibration to it than the AVL.

  New H-D with the twin cam 88" had shifting problems when that engine was designed.  The engineers found out that prior model bikes had no problems..they concluded that old engines (Evolution 2 back) needed vibration to shift.  So they redesigned the transmission around the 88" and thats the reason they shift like a Honda now.

  So maybe that can be applied here, since the AVL was a stop gap before the UCE was perfected.  I have to admit the 5 speed is a real tractor of a gearcase next to any other 5 speed I've ridden.  Just an observation.  Will.

[gunbunny]

THe problem only happens when its warm and been running a while.Have to check what oil is in there with the dealer.

[Geirskogul]

My 2009 AVL is super easy to get into neutral, at a stop or moving, either from first or second gear downwards, hot or cold.  I guess I got lucky?

The unlucky part is that, almost EVERY TIME I try to shift into 4th, it doesn't "go far enough" and I end up in the false neutral between third and fourth, and I have to essentially double-shift it every time unless I want to hear the engine rev up as I try to pull away.

[UncleErnie]

Talked about this with Earl today.  He feels that motor oil is too thick and may cause the clutch plates to drag; the multi-grades have thickening agents.  He recommends a half quart of ATF (as opposed to the full quart some espouse).

[Vince]

     Motorcycle transmissions are designed to be shifted while moving. If it was set up like a car the transmission would be 2 or 3 times bigger and heavier. As has been mentioned here, you should shift as you come to a stop.
     I recommend a full liter in the primary of the electric start units. The Sprag will last vastly longer. The spec fo the old kick start only primary is 420 cc.
     Certainly you should make sure the clutch is properly adjusted, but most of the issue is the design of virtually every motorcycle transmission.

[PhilJ]

Mine is an AVL electric start. 12 K miles haven't lost a sprag yet. (where's the icon for crossed fingers)

I'm in the anti-motor oil corner. I use 1/2 liter synthetic ATF. It's easier than 420 ml. Two changes and no left over ATF. The old is used to lube my chain ( Ok so I'm cheap ). My bike shifts easily into neutral at stops from 1st or 2nd. When I first got the bike that was not the case. What made the difference was adjusting the clutch rod properly and then fine tuning the clutch lever. After that it would still start shifting hard after a few days. I found that the clutch handle bar lever was out of adjustment again, well almost, what was really happening was the clutch cable was still stretching. Once the cable found it's level (stopped stretching) I haven't missed getting into neutral once. Still the original cable.

Since I have electronic ignition the only thing that will cause the sprag, IMO, to fail would be a back fire. I'm very careful not to let that happen. If it were to happen it would be in the morning when the idle would be low. I have the idle set for hot = 1K rpm very hot = 1.2 K rpm.

[Ice]

PhilJ you are spot on!!
 

found that the clutch handle bar lever was out of adjustment again, well almost, what was really happening was the clutch cable was still stretching.

 I noticed the same thing over the years. Still haven't made up my mind though if it its the cable core stretching or the cable housing settling in or a combination of the two.  I suppose more, Ahem , "Road Testing" is in order here.  

[PaulF]

Ice, that's a good question. Often, I find that my my clutch, perfectly adjusted when cold, is out of adjustment when hot - with a well-lubed cable.  Maybe it's the 20-50 VS ATF in the primary case argument. I don't know.

Usually, by the 2nd or 3rd traffic light, I'm adjusting the cable on the fly. When I find the money spot, thats where it stays for the rest of the day, then its all good.

[PaulF]

By the way, one more point of order regarding cables. There is the reality that cables stretch and cheap cables stretch and break.

However, as mine, and many others, are post 2007 manufacture and are supposed to be equipped with improved quality clutch cables, are the factory clutch cables reliable enough or should they still be replaced with thew heavy-duty cable?

[PhilJ]

Good question Paul, mine is almost 1 1/2 yrs old. If / when it breaks I'll probably try the heavy duty. Or as Ice says, 'more road testing'.