Author Topic: UCE Chain Adjustment  (Read 11789 times)

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t120rbullet

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Reply #15 on: August 28, 2009, 05:26:10 pm

Found it difficult to check for "dead-on wheel alighnment", but it looks OK from where I'm standing.


There is nothing to see really.
First adjust the chain until it's right and tighten the larger of the 2 nuts down.
Have someone else sit on the bike and hold the the bike up and hold the front wheel straight. Take your straight edge and push it up to the rear tire (front and back) and note how far it is from the front tire.
Then do the same to the other side.
The distance from your straight edge to the front tire should be fairly even on both sides.
If it's 4 inches away when you check one side and right up to the tire on the other side then you need to cock the rear tire over until they even up.
Adjust the tire back and forth using the cam on the opposite side as the chain adjustment.
When you get it right check your chain again.
CJ
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Vince

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Reply #16 on: August 28, 2009, 05:51:53 pm
     You can check chain alignment much easier. Use a 12" ruler or your eye. Check the bottom run of the chain where it comes off the rear sprocket. Look for a little kink or angle in the chain where the chain leaves the sprocket. If your eye or the ruler finds a kink, straighten it out and you are done.
     There are tools, including lasers, you can use, but unless you have 100 HP on tap or travel 150MPH around Daytona Speedway you will not notice any difference in wear or handling. Certainly you should align it. but laser precision is not really necessary in this application.


UncleErnie

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Reply #17 on: August 29, 2009, 12:56:05 am
Regarding the chain tightness- I find that I can't check it by myself because the bike has a fair amount of sag when I sit on it.  In other words- it looks too loose but when i sit on it (rather- I have a friend sit on it)- the chain is perfecto.  You don't want a chain too tight because it will cause extra wear on the transmission.  

I was taught to check the lower run.
« Last Edit: August 29, 2009, 03:18:56 am by UncleErnie »
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Marrtyn

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Reply #18 on: August 29, 2009, 03:15:02 pm
Thanks for all the info. guys.
Yes I always thought the lower run, but the good book says upper run, hence the initial debate. :-\


Geirskogul

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Reply #19 on: August 30, 2009, 04:52:05 am
My manual has a diagram depicting the lower run of the chain, which is good because the upper one is behind the guard.

Aligning is pretty straightforward - my cams are three notches apart and the bike tracks true.
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The Garbone

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Reply #20 on: August 30, 2009, 01:27:19 pm
I use my laser level for this, have to use it for something.   On a side note the batteries in my level are over 10 years old and the thing still works like a champ..  Why can't my TV remotes last that long?
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Leonard

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Reply #21 on: August 30, 2009, 01:33:12 pm
I use my laser level for this, have to use it for something.   On a side note the batteries in my level are over 10 years old and the thing still works like a champ..  Why can't my TV remotes last that long?

Real Classic has an article on this subject that may be of interest to you.
http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/wheelalignment.html
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t120rbullet

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Reply #22 on: August 30, 2009, 02:25:22 pm
I use my laser level for this, have to use it for something.   On a side note the batteries in my level are over 10 years old and the thing still works like a champ..  Why can't my TV remotes last that long?

Because you watch too much TV?
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Marrtyn

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Reply #23 on: September 02, 2009, 02:01:17 pm
Like the lazer, Len. Going to make one. Thanks.


Marrtyn

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Reply #24 on: September 17, 2009, 08:45:51 pm
Found after, with my attempted chain adjusting, that I found/heared the chain intermittently clicking!!
So I assumed it was out of alignment. Therefore messed around with the cams until the clicking stopped, and it transpired that the difference in notches, between left and right, was back to its original setting (i.e. not the same ), be it, that both cams were now on a tighter setting of one notch, than originally set.


Chris-G5

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Reply #25 on: October 16, 2009, 02:04:56 am
In the service manual it says " Check and ensure that the number of notches from the punch mark on the cam to the notch resting on the pin are equal on both sides"


Chris-G5

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Reply #26 on: October 16, 2009, 02:13:50 am
Also be sure to use some loc-tite on, and tighten good the anchor nut. MIne vibrated off and luckily I noticed it while putting on my new muffler.


Scott Gilmore

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Reply #27 on: December 13, 2009, 12:07:41 am
Like the lazer, Len. Going to make one. Thanks.
That's a pretty trick rig to adjust your bike's chain.

If you prefer low tech that's certainly accurate enough and costs a whole lot less, cut yourself a ~10 or ~12 foot piece of string.  With the bike on the center stand, wrap the halfway point of the string around the back tire somewhere around about 4 or 5 o`clock viewed from the chain side.  Now pull the string forward on either side of the bike taught and look at the point on either side where the string passes the rear tire at about 7 or 8 o`clock.  You'll be able to easily see if the rear wheel is cocked.

But you could use lasers too, I guess.

Regards,
Scott Gilmore