[UncleErnie]

Getting ready for new sprag and reading the manual (read; looking at pictures).
- What is anabond?
- Do I need to take out the alternator also, or just the clutch?
- Do I need any special tools?
- How long did it take you?
- Is the take-down and re-assembly fairly self evident, or am I going to need documentation as I go? 
- Any things to watch for / tips?

I realized I didn't have nearly enough oil in there- may have contributed to blow-up?  I plan to use a quart of ATF.  Good?  Bad?  What do YOU use?

[REpozer]

Sorry Uncle  E,
My spag appears to still be working.
Let me share a few pointers that you may find helpful.

1)We all know how to accomplish the fluid priming gyration we all learned in RE 101.So I   will spare you that. Do it now.

2) After garnering all factory recommended safety gear( IE cool shades, leather flight jacket and sturdy pair of tennis shoes). Confidently mount your MC from the left side remembering the lessons learned way back in Coolness 101 class (hopefully you have an audience by now)

3) After you are safely mounted on your RE MC, assume a relaxed poster (a crowd should be on pins and needle's by now if you have followed steps 1&2 properly.)
And remember coolness still counts.

4) Hold chin up in a symbolic juster as to point to a bright riding future. Now ready your right thump approx 1mm away from the electronic starter motor switch.

5) THIS IS IMPORTANT....hold tongue to left side of lips and MASH the STARTER BUTON.

6) Once you are certain the RE engine is pumping under its own power, promply release the electronic starter motor switch . This seems to not agitate the spag.

7) Enjoy a safe ride. Give the crowd a slight wave as you ride away.( coolness 202)


If you properly follow the above steps a sprag should last a life time.

And yes, I have kept a full litre of 20w-50 dino oil in my primary.Perhaps your Crew Chief has betrayed you.

[UncleErnie]

Well, there seems to be a raging debate about what oil to use, doesn't there. 
So what wlse is new.

Sprag gears and crashes;  not a matter of "if", but "when", my over confident friend. 
I have twice the miles you do and thought I was in the clear, also.   Hear those foot steps in the night...?


So, that was fun. 
Do I have to take out more than the clutch?

[REpozer]

Sprag gears and crashes;  not a matter of "if", but "when", my over confident friend. 
I have twice the miles you do and thought I was in the clear, also.   Hear those foot steps in the night...?
So, that was fun. 
Do I have to take out more than the clutch?

Thump! Drag! Thump! Drag!......
" Uah!??? Uncle Ernie , Is that you"?!!!!
Thump! Drag!....
AHHHHHHHH GLOP!!

[UncleErnie]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz_crHdfggY

Oh- that's not me.  That's your sprag clutch coming to get you in the night.   


(I wonder if Kevin ever reads this junk and cries himself to sleep?)

[REpozer]

I actually just watch that one.
Got  it free from the libray. No cable TV.

[ace.cafe]

Anabond is a company in India that makes sealant and threadlocker compounds.
So, depending on where they tell you to put it, you could substitute RTV or Blue Loctite.
RTV to seal like a gasket, and blue Loctite for thread locking.

The alternator definitely has to come out, and the sprocket behind it.

I didn't need any special tools, but I was just taking it out, not putting it back together.
I think you can do it all with normal hand tools.

It should be pretty self-evident as far as how to get it apart.
Be sure to clean any metal particles off the alternator, especially in the gap.
You have to set the alternator gap correctly when you put it back together.
There's a gauge for this, but some people just use a piece of plastic of about the right thickness, like from a milk jug or peanut butter container. It has to be a non-magnetic material.

Ideas about the oil vary, but what I've heard is that Dexron ATF with an over-fill is the most recommended.

[UncleErnie]

Huh.  I wonder where this gap is you speak of.
Well- it doesn't work now, nor I guess I'll just start unscrewing things and see what happens.  I guess I can always dump it in a trailer and take it to my dealer....

[UncleErnie]

I put a socket on the first nut and the whole shebang moves- except the nut.  Do I need to put the bike in gear to offer resistance?
Also, the manual says to use special tools- pullers I assume.  I can get this thing apart without these pullers?

[ace.cafe]

I put a socket on the first nut and the whole shebang moves- except the nut.  Do I need to put the bike in gear to offer resistance?
Also, the manual says to use special tools- pullers I assume.  I can get this thing apart without these pullers?

Yes, it's a good idea to put it in gear and lock the brake on.

I didn't need any pullers. You might not need any.

[Blue Ridge Wheeltor]

Hey Uncle Louie,
On the member rides-what's the green cylinder behind the air cleaner?

[UncleErnie]

The new air filter- a dirt bike pod.  I have the right-sized black Uni pod, but saw this and just had to put it on- just to be pervo I guess.  There seems to be 2 air boxes, and the one with the filter in it was in the way of my feet (rear-sets), so I took iboth side boxes off.   The pod filters the air into the secondary airbox, and everyone is happy.

Mr Cafe, spent the whole day with the AMCA Blue Ridge chapter on my sidecar today (wanted to take the Musketball, but-).  I feel like I've been mugged in a blind alley, so sitting in front of left side of this miasma may be just the thing.  If I can find the strength to lift a wrench...
I feel like the old routine;  "I just flew in from Chicago..."


What the heck- here's a picture of Glen's '51 Chif next to my Beemer just prior to leaving.

[UncleErnie]

Running diary;
Using a socket to remove the alternator nut, everything moves.  Finally put a thin wedge of hardwood between the chain and sprocket, put a pipe on the ratchet handle to extend the leverage, and gave it a sharp rap with a 4x4.  Came right off. 
I've inadvertantly discoveresd the inside of the alternator is made of VERY soft material.  Thin aluminium?  Hope that doesn't matter much- it's only a small disturbance.  (I hope)
Now I can't figure out how to get the alternator off.  I can see why a puller is necesary, but some say it's not.  (Tapping with a rubber hammer is how I discovered the inside of the alternator)  We shall see...

[mbevo1]

Ernie -

I just removed all the starter stuff this weekend (one lazy kick and kickback locked her up).

I used a standard gear puller to get the alternator started.  Just had to get it started, and it wiggled right off.  I think I could have used my small Stanley pry bar, but didn't know how much force I'd have to put on it.  Turns out, not much...

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan

[UncleErnie]

I tried a whammy bar from behind... thought about a good tap with a hammer, but I'm afraid of chipping the case.  Especially the edges where the gasket sits.