When its time for me to split my crank cases I will clean up and de burr anything that would benefit from such treatment and then coat the insides with a couple of coats of Glyptal .
It does a great job of sealing any porosity and keeps crud and sludge from building up or sticking.
Most of the Royal Enfield twins were built with Glyptal in them from the factory.
In my 1961 948cc+.040" Bug-eye Sprite, I used DuPont Imron Corlar epoxy paint inside the engine block, and that worked fine too.
That was a pretty hot little buggy. It had 42 hp in stock form, and when I was done with it, it had about 100 hp. 8800 rpm redline with an Isky cam and Hepolite pistons.
That was the first car that I ever threw a rod with.
I made the fatal rookie mistake, which I always harp about now, of doing the performance mods and leaving the bottom end stock. Lost the #4 con rod and the crank along with it. Replaced it with a hardened and nitrided crank turned .010" under on the rod journals, and had the rods lightened and balanced, and the whole assembly balanced together after that. Installed a center main bearing girdle to reduce crank whip, because it was only a 3 main bearing crank, and it was cast.
I did so much work on that car, you wouldn't believe how much.
There was literally nothing left unblueprinted. Nothing.
It really ran good, too.
That was back in 1972.
Topic: crank bearings gone bad, case split, what to do while I'm in there? (Read 6330 times)