Author Topic: ES Battery in Toolbox  (Read 4487 times)

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luckylefty

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Reply #15 on: June 30, 2009, 03:11:29 am
As far as I know, there is no battery with the same speccs that will fit. I did quite a bit of searching. The Yuasa listed above and its clones are the best we can find.  I had to file the bottom left corner of my bracket, so 1/8" deeper would not have worked.

While this battery is not the same spec, when I push the starter button - pow it starts, instantly.

-Rick

thanks rick..but will there be any issues ? like in the long run..? is it the same as yuasa YTZ7ST ? Even the RE agent here is not familiar with batter specs..wat a shame..


Rick Sperko

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Reply #16 on: June 30, 2009, 04:04:48 am
The YTZ14S has higher Amp-hours than the 7S. Long term, I cannot see any issues, maybe longer term motorcycle veterans here can come up with something. The bike is running on the alternator most of the time (unless you have a diesel ;) ), so I think the spag clutch is the biggest concern. Lots of people have their spag clutch break with 14Ah batteries, so who knows. I think it is UncleErnie who says "you pay your money and take your chances."

Really I think the only issue is do you use your ES a lot, do you hold the starter button for a while? Once the bike is running the alternator should be doing the work. I don't do either. One other issue is being careful that the positive post doesn't touch anything while the negative is connected. That will make a spark, probably blow a fuse, possibly fry something. Really you have that same concern with a 14Ah battery too.

I like it, I think it looks good.

Just my $0.02 and probably more than it is worth.

Good luck,
-Rick
Rick in Milwaukee, WI

'06 RE Bullet Classic Iron
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'66 Chris Craft Cavalier Cutlass 26'
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luckylefty

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Reply #17 on: June 30, 2009, 08:29:32 am
The YTZ14S has higher Amp-hours than the 7S. Long term, I cannot see any issues, maybe longer term motorcycle veterans here can come up with something. The bike is running on the alternator most of the time (unless you have a diesel ;) ), so I think the spag clutch is the biggest concern. Lots of people have their spag clutch break with 14Ah batteries, so who knows. I think it is UncleErnie who says "you pay your money and take your chances."

Really I think the only issue is do you use your ES a lot, do you hold the starter button for a while? Once the bike is running the alternator should be doing the work. I don't do either. One other issue is being careful that the positive post doesn't touch anything while the negative is connected. That will make a spark, probably blow a fuse, possibly fry something. Really you have that same concern with a 14Ah battery too.

I like it, I think it looks good.

Just my $0.02 and probably more than it is worth.

Good luck,
-Rick

thats good to know rick i am ridin my RE daily its like my mode of transportation to work and home. I mean if you are usin a es and there is no problem ..i hope my bike doesnt give any problem too..i guess its gonna be quite costly to get it fixed here..the postive negative issue issit the top part of the dry cell ?


1Blackwolf1

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Reply #18 on: June 30, 2009, 01:44:00 pm
  I will probably go to the baterry in the box when the new AGM I put inits original position goes south but I did get a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty on it so it may be a while before that happens.  From what I've found out is the sprague is just as likely to blow from bad tuning as anything else.  If you use the decompressor when using the electric start you will prolong its life.  And having it tuned properly will save backfiring.  I know what caused mine to blow and it was the coil primary wiring coming apart and having the bike die at speed in gear.

  I'm no electrical engineer but have worked on lots of equipment (got my DOT maintenance license courtesy U.S. Army) and IMO a 2AH difference will not make or break the system.  May be wrong, probably am.  It won't hold out as long cranking but you shouldn't grind on the starter anyway.  If it doesn't start within 15-20 seconds on anything, car/bike/truck you have a problem.  You need to figure out the issues then try to start it.  So while I do believe in the biggest battery in a auto I can fit in the mount (book calls for a 750 CCA, if a 1000 CCA fits in it goes).  I also believe a 2AH difference is less of a concern in a bike.  Unless you plan on riding in extreme heat or cold.  If I'm way opff base I suppose I'll find out from someone smarter than I am.  Will.
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Rick Sperko

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Reply #19 on: June 30, 2009, 07:33:45 pm
I am going to get even more opportunity to use my ES, my kickstart spring popped out or broke this morning. I had it off over the weekend and as I was putting it together I thought it looked like it was not all the way seated, but I tried pushing it in and it didn't go any farther. This morning I went to kick it over and pow! The kick start goes up and down but stays where I left it. Since I won't get a chance to take it apart till this weekend I will tie it up and use the ES.

It is a bummer, I love kick starting the bike. I recently found I can start it one kick left footed, just for the heck of it. Then the next day it took four kicks just to keep me humble.

-Rick
Rick in Milwaukee, WI

'06 RE Bullet Classic Iron
'63 VW Beetle Ragtop (also classic)
'66 Chris Craft Cavalier Cutlass 26'
'02 BMW R1150R


geoffbaker

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Reply #20 on: June 30, 2009, 07:37:36 pm
If it's the spring its an easy fix :)

Probably just popped out of the little hole.


Rick Sperko

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Reply #21 on: June 30, 2009, 08:05:39 pm
Yeah, I had the spring in my hand this weekend, so that is likely the cause. If I touch it...

Thanks,
-Rick
Rick in Milwaukee, WI

'06 RE Bullet Classic Iron
'63 VW Beetle Ragtop (also classic)
'66 Chris Craft Cavalier Cutlass 26'
'02 BMW R1150R


luckylefty

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Reply #22 on: August 08, 2009, 07:34:04 pm
guys i just recolated my battery to the tool box and i cant seem to start my bike..there is a click sound..when i press the start the pliot light turns on then it goes off..is there a glitch ? btw the click is from the tool box a round looking thing..


Blltrdr

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Reply #23 on: August 08, 2009, 07:46:10 pm
guys i just recolated my battery to the tool box and i cant seem to start my bike..there is a click sound..when i press the start the pliot light turns on then it goes off..is there a glitch ? btw the click is from the tool box a round looking thing..

Check your ground. Make sure it has a clean and tight connection to the frame. Battery fully charged? Is it the same model/size Rick installed?

Blltrdr
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luckylefty

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Reply #24 on: August 09, 2009, 01:36:01 am
Check your ground. Make sure it has a clean and tight connection to the frame. Battery fully charged? Is it the same model/size Rick installed?

Blltrdr

the battery is fine and its charged..but i am not sure about the ground. i rem there was a green cable was linked to the chasis..and direct to the battery negtive side. and also another. Black cable linked to the battery but it as another wire coming out .. there is a click sound from the starter and my pilot light flashes.


geoffbaker

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Reply #25 on: August 09, 2009, 02:03:45 am
guys i just recolated my battery to the tool box and i cant seem to start my bike..there is a click sound..when i press the start the pliot light turns on then it goes off..is there a glitch ? btw the click is from the tool box a round looking thing..

I would check connections, and figure out what the round looking thing is.. you need to know your electical system well enough to know what the parts do, to figure out how to fix it :)

Read the manual and the circuit diagram.


luckylefty

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Reply #26 on: August 09, 2009, 02:43:31 am
I would check connections, and figure out what the round looking thing is.. you need to know your electical system well enough to know what the parts do, to figure out how to fix it :)

Read the manual and the circuit diagram.

i was lookin a snidal's and realized its a starter. will have to figure out later..how to trouble shoot