Author Topic: front break job  (Read 3977 times)

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FXMASTER75

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on: June 23, 2009, 02:01:18 am
Whats the tick to getting the wheel apart?


REpozer

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Reply #1 on: June 23, 2009, 02:30:36 am
After you remove the front wheel ,you will notice that the axle is still in the wheel. You must remove the large nut on the axle. The drum will then come out.
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FXMASTER75

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Reply #2 on: June 23, 2009, 03:13:25 am
I see that at least one side needs to come off. Very scary putting a deep well socket on that thin soft nut. Cant seem to keep the socket head on the nut flush. Afraid Im gonna round it off.

How do you keep the axel stationary doing this?


t120rbullet

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Reply #3 on: June 23, 2009, 03:21:06 am
I see that at least one side needs to come off. Very scary putting a deep well socket on that thin soft nut. Cant seem to keep the socket head on the nut flush. Afraid Im gonna round it off.

How do you keep the axel stationary doing this?

Use an impact on it or chuck the other side of the axle up in a vise and use a wrench.
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Geirskogul

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Reply #4 on: June 23, 2009, 06:05:25 am
Get thee a pair of vicegrip pliers.  They will save your ass one day.
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geoffbaker

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Reply #5 on: June 23, 2009, 02:14:44 pm
Don't forget WD-40!

A large adjustable wrench worked fine for me. But set it up on a vice or somewhere stable.


petefletcher

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Reply #6 on: June 26, 2009, 08:34:31 am
Vicegrip pliers?
Adjustable wrenches?

These ar tools of (very much) last resort and are almost bound to damage the nut.

Get a correct socket or box spanner and do the job properly.
It's easier if you can holt the axle in a vice (with soft jaws of course)
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Blltrdr

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Reply #7 on: June 26, 2009, 04:17:35 pm
Vicegrip pliers?
Adjustable wrenches?

These ar tools of (very much) last resort and are almost bound to damage the nut.

Get a correct socket or box spanner and do the job properly.
It's easier if you can holt the axle in a vice (with soft jaws of course)

Pete is quite right. Always purchase or rent the correct size spanner or socket for the job, it may not save you time, but assuredly will save you money. A pair of magnetic rubber protectors for the vise jaws is a very good investment as Pete has also pointed out.
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clamp

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Reply #8 on: July 01, 2009, 02:58:59 pm
Guys guys before you go rattling on about pliers and windy guns the guy said front wheel,  not rear.

 You can tell he means front brake because he actually mentions it in the thread title.
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ianw

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Reply #9 on: July 04, 2009, 04:12:24 pm
If you've got strong hands you can apply the brake using the lever with one hand - this will stop the thing from turning and then you can undo the nut with the other ... unless someone's put the nut on previously with a huge bar wrench.


FXMASTER75

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Reply #10 on: July 30, 2009, 06:27:14 pm
Best solution...1 24mm deep well socket, 1 1"deep well socket, a good friend and a few beers.

Step1. Drink a few beers and BS w/ good friend.
Step2. Tag team the wheel w/ deep well socketts.
Step3. Remember to re-align the wheel halves properly for correct speedo cable angle...LOL.
Step4. Drink more beers w/ good friend.

I was doing this because I was having trouble w/ cable strech, and getting the break light to work properly. Break pads werent that bad, still had life in them. Cleaned front break internals, and re-lubed pivot points w/ some pretty pink Mystic break part grease. Amazing how much better the springs return the break lever when properly lubed.

Question though...Purchased new break shoes, and was going to go ahead and install them...Way too tight. Have seen threads on here about having to sand down the break pads a bit, but man it looked like most of the pad on the leading edge would need to be removed.


mbevo1

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Reply #11 on: July 30, 2009, 07:40:00 pm
FX -

Are your new pads OEM items?  Don't know what the spec is for thickness, but my stock shoes had plenty of room in the drum. 

BTW, I ending up arcing my shoes (well worth the effort), and probably ground off 1/8 inch in spots...

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FXMASTER75

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Reply #12 on: July 31, 2009, 01:44:47 pm
Mbev:

Pads are indeed OEM. Ordered from classic.

What is Arcing shoes? Sanding of pad material?


Blltrdr

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Reply #13 on: July 31, 2009, 02:50:30 pm
Mbev:

Pads are indeed OEM. Ordered from classic.

What is Arcing shoes? Sanding of pad material?

Arching is when you true the shoe by shaving, grinding or filing the shoe surface until it is perfectly arched to make full contact on your drum surface. You take a piece of chalk and make an X or Z pattern completely around the shoes, install it in the drum, give it a spin, apply the brake then remove and check the contact. Remove material where needed. This can be a bit tedious but well worth the extra effort.

Blltrdr
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