Author Topic: sprag clutch - embarking into the unknown  (Read 1893 times)

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jbdrury

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on: May 29, 2009, 07:40:05 pm
OK!

So, I've finally got the bike to start, which took some time. However, before I begin this riding season I want to finally remove my sprag clutch, which was giving me so much trouble last year.

So checking with you all real quick, here's a checklist of things I have to do the job:

clutch center extractor
engine sprocket extractor
complete overhaul gasket set
all your regular assortment of tools
lots of hope....

Is there anything else I need? How important is that primary case cover remover-device? I figured since I was replacing the gasket anyway it wouldn't be necessary? Am I wrong?

Thanks everybody, any other advice on embarking on this overhaul would be welcome as well!


ScooterBob

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Reply #1 on: May 29, 2009, 08:04:17 pm
The job is pretty much a piece of cake! Disconnect the battery before you begin - and be sure the bike is securely standing, then remove the pedals and pegs to access the outer primary cover and remove it. Then you can remove the primary chain tensioner shoe, the clutch and the alternator and you are ready to remove the inner primary. Remove the last few bolts securing the primary to the engine and the gearbox and remove the inner primary to gain access to the starter gearset. Keep everything clean, use new gaskets and PAY ATTENTION to the order of disassemble and you'll be done in no time! Pay particularly close attention to the magnetic parts of the alternator to make sure they didn't "collect" any broken gear teeth or other metallic detritus - this debris can whack an alternator in a heartbeat! Best of luck on it!
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The Garbone

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Reply #2 on: May 29, 2009, 08:06:58 pm
I put in 3 heavy clutch springs I bought from CMW when I did mine.  Like the feel much better...
Gary
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clamp

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Reply #3 on: May 30, 2009, 05:09:15 am
If the clutch isnt slipping then why the stronger springs. Its just more load on the thrust bearing ,lever  and cable that is already prone to breakage.

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Blltrdr

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Reply #4 on: May 30, 2009, 05:48:17 am
Posted by: clamp
If the clutch isn't slipping then why the stronger springs. Its just more load on the thrust bearing ,lever  and cable that is already prone to breakage.

Yes Clamp does make a very valid point. Sometimes just giving the clutch pack a good cleaning can solve the slippage. Check the friction plates for cracks or abnormal wear and also check the metal plates for any distortion which can be the root of your slippage. Adding heaver springs is not a cure-all.

Blltrdr
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Geirskogul

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Reply #5 on: May 30, 2009, 06:05:55 am
Wait, so you do all this through the primary (left) side?
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The Garbone

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Reply #6 on: May 31, 2009, 12:17:57 am
Wait, so you do all this through the primary (left) side?

Yes, the clutch and all that is in there...

As for the heavier springs,  at the time I was contemplating hooking up a hack so that is why I got them.  But I do like the slightly heavier more even pull they seem to give on the clutch, just a feel thing, and considering I am a fat ass my clutch needs all the help it can get..
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


Rick Sperko

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Reply #7 on: May 31, 2009, 04:28:20 am
Disconnect the battery before you begin

Stupid question: why?

-Rick
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Geirskogul

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Reply #8 on: May 31, 2009, 05:58:10 am
Stupid question: why?

-Rick

Standard procedure when working on anything mechanical/automotive.
All hail Sir Lucas, Prince of Darkness.

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Rick Sperko

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Reply #9 on: May 31, 2009, 02:05:00 pm
I can see touching the stator to ground and messing something up. The Navy taught me electronics so I could fix their radars, I guess I picked up some bad habits there. I remember people rewiring parts of the ship while everything was still hot. I should get in the habit of disconnecting the battery.

-Rick
Rick in Milwaukee, WI

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'66 Chris Craft Cavalier Cutlass 26'
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