Author Topic: Trafficators Don't Trafficate  (Read 5686 times)

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DVDitman

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on: May 24, 2009, 06:35:34 pm
Electrical problems: the trafficators don't blink, and the electric start won't spin. The headlight works, as do the pilot lights, the brake and taillights, the horn, and the bike runs. The voltage at the battery, after a sixty-plus mile ride was about 10.5. The voltage at the trafficators ranges from .5 to just 4 volts. Checked both fuses (Are there more?) - they're good. The bulbs all look good. Everything under the rear mudguard did get oil-soaked when the oil blew out through the breather tube a couple months ago, but I cleaned that mess up and applied a little ElectroGrease to the connections.
What do you think?
Thanks. -Dave


otteryboy

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Reply #1 on: May 24, 2009, 06:45:00 pm
Sounds mostly like a low voltage problem. So is the battery in good condition and charged?

If so, it's chasing the connections that are ruining your supply of DC.

Maybe the alternator is not putting out it's stuff - test it as well. You should get 13 plus volts at the battery when slightly revving.

 ???


ace.cafe

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Reply #2 on: May 24, 2009, 06:45:48 pm
I think you should  remove the battery terminal connections(ground side first), and do a thorough cleaning of the battery terminals, reconnect(hot side first) and take it for a long ride.
When you get back, if your battery is not up to over 12.5 volts, then you should buy a new battery.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2009, 06:49:09 pm by ace.cafe »
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rideOn

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Reply #3 on: May 24, 2009, 07:49:53 pm
If my battery is low, the taillight or signals do not work, which was the case recently. When I cranked the bike, the lights worked fine. This told me the battery was weak and the alternator good. If your lights are inoperative with the bike running, time for the meter to check charging.
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stevel

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Reply #4 on: May 25, 2009, 03:51:52 am
Dave,

I have gone through a 3 month period when the bike would constantly conk out on me. Each time the battery voltage would be down to about 8 volts. (Note I couldn't charge it up past more than 11.3 volts). I thought that once it started, the alternator would take over, and the battery was showing +12V while the bike was running.
I put the conking out down to carbi problems and have wasted a lot of time stuffing about. Finally bought a new battery, and that was the end of my problems.

PS shortly after buying the battery, I was down at a local metal recycling yard, that always seems to have a lot of lead acid (sealed & conventional) batteries, and had a multi meter with me. Within minutes I had picked up 3 sealed 12 volt batteries - all showing over 13V - for a few bucks. Two are very small (90mm highx 70mm wide x 60mm deep)
and I might even carry one as a spare


Geirskogul

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Reply #5 on: May 25, 2009, 04:59:21 am
Be careful about those sealed batteries - if they bulge EVEN A LITTLE BIT then they're bad.  Some come from things like security systems and are still good, but things like local laws mandate replacement every year, so you'll find a lot.  Other times, even if they show 13-14v, they may conk out the second you put a meaningful load on them.  Still, a good deal if you find even one good one, though.

Batteries can be the bane of my existence.  We had a 1995 saturn that was having shifting problems.  Alternator tested good, did a lot of transmission work, but still had problems.  We knew the battery was going and had put it on a tender every night, but didn't even make the link that a weak/bad battery could cause shifting problems in the automatic.  Figures out, that's what it was.
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stevel

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Reply #6 on: May 25, 2009, 06:48:35 am
Thanks for the heads-up, Geirskogul.


Steve


DVDitman

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Reply #7 on: May 25, 2009, 05:12:06 pm
After more than 12 hours on the Battery Tender, my unsealed battery is up 13.4 volts. The trafficators again trafficate. I am going to pull it, clean the terminals, etc., and weather permitting, take a ride. I am a little perplexed as I kept the cells filled, and the Tender hooked up all through the winter on a battery that is just now a little over a year old. Well, we'll see.


geoffbaker

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Reply #8 on: May 25, 2009, 06:35:11 pm
Sounds like the trafficators are fine, just not getting enough power. Although if you've got 10.5 at the battery, you should get more than 5 at the trafficator... shouldn't drop more than a volt or two. Cleaning/examining the connectors and wire would be a good idea, enough bad connectors add up to voltage drop.. After an hours ride you should definitely have a charged battery! (Unless you spent all the time at traffic lights). Also check the connections at the flasher and the trafficator switch.


REpozer

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Reply #9 on: May 25, 2009, 06:37:24 pm
DVD Man
I live in wet environment.I have had the frame ground near the battery under the seat corrode. It looked fine till I removed the terminal to see the rust.
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500KsGerry

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Reply #10 on: May 25, 2009, 07:03:41 pm
the stock traficator flasher sucks on RE. any variance in voltage and they wont work. replaced mine with a standard 2 prong automotive flasher from Shucks for about 5 bucks. works good
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PhilJ

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Reply #11 on: May 26, 2009, 08:56:56 pm
Sounds like the trafficators are fine, just not getting enough power. Although if you've got 10.5 at the battery, you should get more than 5 at the trafficator... shouldn't drop more than a volt or two. Cleaning/examining the connectors and wire would be a good idea, enough bad connectors add up to voltage drop.. After an hours ride you should definitely have a charged battery! (Unless you spent all the time at traffic lights). Also check the connections at the flasher and the trafficator switch.
He probably had 10.5 static and 5 with the load. That's what weak batteries do.

If the battery is is over a  year old it is just about on it's last legs, what with it running down the way you described. Wet cell batteries lose a lot of life after being taken down. They aren't designed as deep cycle.



LotusSevenMan

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Reply #12 on: May 27, 2009, 09:07:16 am
By 'tender' I assume you mean trickle charger in UK parlance (a tender being the rolling article behind a steam train that is used to carry the coal)?
I have known some that put out rather more amperage than they should and that can dry out a lead/acid battery and actually do more harm than good. Best ones in UK are the 'Optimate' range that really do work well.
I have a sealed lead/acid unit on a Honda that is now twelve years old so it must work well!!!
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Geirskogul

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Reply #13 on: May 27, 2009, 09:11:57 am
Trickle charger isn't just UK wordage, it's what we call them over here, too.  I didn't know the thing was called a "tender" until I started reading this board.  "Tender" just makes it sound more, "vintage-y," I guess.
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DVDitman

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Reply #14 on: May 28, 2009, 07:40:08 pm
Battery Tender is a commercially available product on this side of the pond, by our host for example. It is a trickle charger, and like the coal tender of steam-powered locomotive tends to the coal needs of locomotive, it tends, in this case, to the needs of the battery, providing voltage as the battery voltage drops while in storage. They do have the ability to dry out the cells of a small battery, however, I usually check mine every week,and it never came close to being dry. The battery is just over one year old. I charged it up the other day, and it has held the charge, but I haven't had a chance to actually get it out on the road and see what happens. I also did clean up all the connectors leading to the trafficators, but have not measured the voltage there since they were cleaned. I'm thinking that I will need a new battery, but after only a year, with good maintenance, I'm wondering why.


PhilJ

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Reply #15 on: May 29, 2009, 12:26:16 pm
...... I'm thinking that I will need a new battery, but after only a year, with good maintenance, I'm wondering why.

In a word, vibration. Some batteries just don't last as long as others. You'll notice that on motorcycle batteries there are no statements of "2 year", "5 year", etc.