Author Topic: Oil Loss  (Read 11908 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

mbevo1

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 732
  • Karma: 0
  • Mike and Stumpy
Reply #15 on: October 01, 2007, 01:34:45 pm
Here's a breather solution from Tim Busby, an RE expert from New Zealand (as posted in the Bullet-mania yahoo group...  I plan on doing this one today!

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan

"A Lot of owners of post '04 bikes (Bullets and Electra X) report engine
breather problems; to which end there are several highly (expensive)
touted fixes to 'cure' the 'problem'.
Not required!

The root of the problem is the main engine breather pipe that comes off
the top of the oil tank; it is routed underneath the main frame cross
tube, then it passes underneath the battery, and curves up into the
catch can.
That very first bend in the pipe is acute, (not a good start) and then
the pipe is forced to dip down under the frame tube and battery.
There in lies the problem; that low point dip in the breather pipe
fills with oil and condensate, eventually blocking up. Slowly it is
pumped up to the catch can, in time the catch can fills with the foul
stuff. Soon all the breather lines are blocked with the excrement, and
then the oil and condensate gloop is forced into the air filter
housing...
A double helping of crap on cold soggy toast for dinner...
:-(

The cure:
Disconnect the main breather pipe completely.
Remove the main breather pipe from off the top of engine, and disconect
it from the catch can.
Turn it around so that the acute bend is no longer attached to the top
of the oil tank. (That end is now going and onto the catch can)
Instead of the breather pipe passing UNDER the frame cross tube, run it
OVER the frame and behind the battery, and back up to the catch can.
Ensure that the pipe has a constant rise in it, No dips of falls.
it will be a 'tight' fit, but it does fit...

That is half the fix.
Now any oil that is carried out from the engine with the crankcase fume
and that passes into the breather pipe is able to drain back into the
oil tank. No longer does it condense in the breather pipe and cause it
to block.

The second part of the fix has two options; one is a factory retro
upgrade for the Drain pipe that runs from the catch can back to the
timing cover.
For the Electra X it involves the fitting of a short Duck Bill breather
INSIDE the timing cover, onto the internal end of the breather pipe.
On the Classis, the upgrade involves a replacement Drain pipe with an
internal Duck Bill installed. Though both are interchangable...
This stops the engine from venting UP the Drain pipe, but allows for
any Oil that makes its way into the catch can to drain back into the
timing cover.
In reality, with the repositioned main breather pipe as described
above, next to no all whatsoever ever makes into the catch can!

So I prefer to disconnect the catch-can drain line, and blank off the
drain pipe on the fitting at the rear of the timing cover.
I simply run the drain line down to the rear chain, with a duck bill
fitting on the end of it.
Any oil that does get it to the catch-can is used to lube the chain.
Any fume expelled from the motor is still able to be recycled via the
Air-box.

In the case of the Electra X: Also disconnect the vent line from the
catch can that runs to the Primary chain case, and simply run it down
over the rear of the bike behind the gear box.
Block off the connection at the catch-can to maintained a 'Closed
circuit'.

Instant solution to the engine breather problems!
No more condensate build up in the engine or breather lines, no water
retained in the oil tank; clear breather lines at all times, and no
compromise to pollution control.
Takes about 10-15 minutes to do, and minimal cost for a secondary Duck
Bill breather to go on the end of the relocated drain line.

The net result also features in a slight drop in average crankcase
operating pressure. Oil consumption will be minimalised, and the Gloop
that used to be accumulating in the oil is free to be expelled as the
gaseous vapour the system was originally designed to handle.

Well tested and proved to work 100%.

Tim
N.Z."
'07 Classic - Stumpy
'10 C5 Military - Sherman