Author Topic: 2 questions; axles and Armorall ~ (Read 7433 times)

UncleErnie · **on:** April 26, 2009, 11:04:47 pm

I'm very sorry- I know this stuff is inhere somewhere, but the type is so small I have a hard time reading- especially when it's in those blue boxes in the search results. So-

1) Rear axle is still loose after chain adjustment. That 30mm nut doesn't pull it in tight. What am I doing wrong here?

2) Just happened to note that Mr Thumper recommended Armorall for rubber bits, and several people said there are better things to use. Question; Like what? Possum fat? (A plentiful natural recource around here)

PS; 1b) 2500 miles and I've had to adjust the chin a couple of times now. is that normal? Does riding like a maniac have any effect on this? (great day today, eh? What?)

ace.cafe · **Reply #1 on:** April 26, 2009, 11:45:53 pm

Didja get the axle spacers in right?

UncleErnie · **Reply #2 on:** April 27, 2009, 01:01:18 am

I didn't take any spacers out. Tok off the brake retainer-thinger nut, the castle nut, and the 30mm nut under that, and lossened up the axle on the right side so both nubby moon-shaped adjusters are loose. (Tough job getting those to stay where I want them. Tightened down the 30mm, but the axle is still losse. Whacked it with a mallet, and everything fell apart.

One wonders why there aren't adjusting screws like Japanese bikes use...

The Garbone · **Reply #3 on:** April 27, 2009, 01:16:44 am

The 30mm nut only tightens the break assembly to the left hand side of the swing arm.. The castle nut tightens down the axle..

The first time I did my chain I was under the impression that the 30mm nut did both and the castle was just to lock it in place. Not so, If you take off the castle you can slide out the axle without touching the 30mm. There are 2 spacers on axle on the right side of the tire that come off, allowing tire changing without touching the chain/ break assembly.

Example.

UncleErnie · **Reply #4 on:** April 27, 2009, 02:00:17 am

Get outta town! I('ll be dipped... Well, i'll have to take a look at all that with a different pair of glasses in the AM. Thanks.

BTW- have you figured out that tub? Up and running?

The Garbone · **Reply #5 on:** April 27, 2009, 02:13:26 am

Still thinking about the hack... Was going to run down to the folks in Holopaw and take a look at some of their Ural rigs before I a decide to sell the tub for something lighter (cozy), put it on and suffer or get a XS1100 or GL1000 to tow it around. Was gonna go down Saturday but ended up fixing flats, changing oil, adjusting my solo saddle and fixing my rattling Indian shorty pipe....

scoTTy · **Reply #6 on:** April 27, 2009, 03:08:35 am

u guys work more on your re's than I do.. I just start it up on the center stand and it walks backwards across the garage floor .. now if I give it gas it prances

backwards

The Garbone · **Reply #7 on:** April 27, 2009, 03:15:56 am

Quote from: Scotty_RE_DJ on April 27, 2009, 03:08:35 am

u guys work more on your re's than I do.. I just start it up on the center stand and it walks backwards across the garage floor .. now if I give it gas it prances backwards

At times I think my RE hates me... I think that has something to do with my inability to leave well enough alone...

Shelley CC · **Reply #8 on:** April 27, 2009, 09:48:29 am

Quote from: The Garbone on April 27, 2009, 02:13:26 am

Still thinking about the hack... Was going to run down to the folks in Holopaw and take a look at some of their Ural rigs before I a decide to sell the tub for something lighter (cozy)

Garbone,
If you're going to browse Urals, check out the new Tourist-T model: pared-down and flat black (that would be my first choice). When it comes to dedicated sidecar-rigs, it truly is hard to beat a Ural. Tell Gene and Paul that Shelley in Michigan said "Hi".

Fabulous chaps, those two.

UncleErnie · **Reply #9 on:** April 27, 2009, 12:15:38 pm

Most bikes I do the bare miniumum- while insisting they run very well.
The Musket Ball has me fairly paranoid- for many years I swore I'd never get one unless , somehow, there was no other choice. So, I'm riding as much as i can to shake out any potential problems. My other cain driven bike has an O-ring chain and rarely needs adjustment. I do know that new chains streatch a bit at first, so I'm hoping that's the bit.

Here's another question; Where's the rear brake cam and do I need a grease gun to lube it?

PhilJ · **Reply #10 on:** April 27, 2009, 01:37:31 pm

Hey UncleErnie,

When you adjust your chain, make sure the the specified freeplay is with you on the bike. Otherwise it may stretch out again. In 10K miles I've adjusted mine twice.

I use ATF on my chains, they don't collect grit and the chains last longer IMO/experience. It has to be lubed more frequently I think but the reward are worth it at leas for me.

ace.cafe · **Reply #11 on:** April 27, 2009, 02:31:15 pm

Quote from: UncleErnie on April 27, 2009, 12:15:38 pm

Most bikes I do the bare miniumum- while insisting they run very well.
The Musket Ball has me fairly paranoid- for many years I swore I'd never get one unless , somehow, there was no other choice. So, I'm riding as much as i can to shake out any potential problems. My other cain driven bike has an O-ring chain and rarely needs adjustment. I do know that new chains streatch a bit at first, so I'm hoping that's the bit.

Here's another question; Where's the rear brake cam and do I need a grease gun to lube it?

The rear brake cam is behind the brake plate, directly behind the pivot for the brake arm.
No grease gun needed. You just remove the brake plate, push the shoe out of the way from the cam, put a very light coat of grease on the surface of it, and reassemble.

PaulF · **Reply #12 on:** April 27, 2009, 03:21:32 pm

2) Just happened to note that Mr Thumper recommended Armorall for rubber bits, and several people said there are better things to use. Question; Like what? Possum fat? (A plentiful natural recource around here)

[/quote]

Ernie, ArmorAll contains silicone. Silicone dries out whatever it touches. There are a number of products that don't contain it. I've tried one or two, here and there - and then tossed them. Unfortunaely, I can't find anything that leaves that nice of a gloss except the silicone-based stuff. If anyone else knows of anything....

Thumper · **Reply #13 on:** April 27, 2009, 04:31:25 pm

If you have doubts about Armor-All then just try one of the many many other vinyl dressings at the auto store. Again, if it's silicon you're worried about then get one that doesn't contain any.

I've used many vinyl dressings for 31 years not so much for the appearance but as a protectant. I've never had Armor-All (or any commercial vinyl dressing) dry out rubber or vinyl.

Matt

23hp · **Reply #14 on:** April 27, 2009, 04:32:53 pm

Quote

Ernie, ArmorAll contains silicone. Silicone dries out whatever it touches. There are a number of products that don't contain it. I've tried one or two, here and there - and then tossed them. Unfortunaely, I can't find anything that leaves that nice of a gloss except the silicone-based stuff. If anyone else knows of anything....

Agreed. I have used Armorall on various cars and it is like an adictive drug. The material becomes dry and faded and you have to reapply constantly in order to keep the appearance up. It can never go back to normal.

On the Enfield and my latest car I have used a damp cloth as was recommended here somewhere. It still looks great!

UncleErnie · **Reply #15 on:** April 27, 2009, 07:36:56 pm

I'f you don't mind the smell for a while, rubbing the inside of a banana peel on stuff gives it some oil and sheen.
No- really!

BigDon · **Reply #16 on:** April 27, 2009, 10:07:10 pm

Quote from: The Garbone on April 27, 2009, 01:16:44 am

The 30mm nut only tightens the break assembly to the left hand side of the swing arm.. The castle nut tightens down the axle..

The first time I did my chain I was under the impression that the 30mm nut did both and the castle was just to lock it in place. Not so, If you take off the castle you can slide out the axle without touching the 30mm. There are 2 spacers on axle on the right side of the tire that come off, allowing tire changing without touching the chain/ break assembly.

Example.

You still need to loosen the 30 mm nut to adjust the chain right?

Or am I like UncleErnie, old and confused?

The Garbone · **Reply #17 on:** April 27, 2009, 10:51:40 pm

Now that is not very nice....

I was just doing my best to describe the theory of operation in understandable terms...The first time I did my chain I wish I had knew more....

UncleErnie · **Reply #18 on:** April 27, 2009, 11:20:54 pm

I already had everything in pieces, but I'm not so sure you need to loosen that 30mm.
Now that brake plate nut with the washer- it didn't screw on all the way, but I took it for a ride and didn't crash.
Oy...

Any truth to the rumour I'm now starting that a shaft conversion is coming out any day now?

Cabo Cruz · **Reply #19 on:** April 28, 2009, 03:19:26 am

Well, my Brothers, I use, as if you could not guess it, WD-40 for fork gaiters and other rubber bits! Oh yes, I'm considering a name change from Cabo Cruz to WD-40!!!

BigDon · **Reply #20 on:** April 28, 2009, 03:26:51 am

Quote from: The Garbone on April 27, 2009, 10:51:40 pm

Now that is not very nice....

I was just doing my best to describe the theory of operation in understandable terms...The first time I did my chain I wish I had knew more....

I think you took that wrong. I am serious. I loosened the nut also. Had one heck of a time finding something to fit and wondering why a tool necessary for something as routine as chain adjustment wasn't in the tool kit.

I am sorry if I offended you, please accept my apologies.

The Garbone · **Reply #21 on:** April 28, 2009, 02:31:32 pm

Lol, all good.
I had to go out and buy an adjustable spanner for that 30mm.. I agree with you about the tool kit..

clamp · **Reply #22 on:** April 29, 2009, 02:23:39 am

The idea of this set up is so you can fix a puncture or change the tyre without upsetting chain tension.

It was fairly common on British bikes.

Wd 40 dries in a day to the point that it looks like you didnt put any on.

A rag with brake fluid on rubber is good. Or black shoe polish.

scoTTy · **Reply #23 on:** April 29, 2009, 03:33:06 am

just don't put armor all on your seat or the bottom of your tires.. zing...zing... tHuMP

1Blackwolf1 · **Reply #24 on:** April 29, 2009, 05:09:28 am

And don't use Bleche-White on whitewalls if you have them..same result.

clamp · **Reply #25 on:** April 29, 2009, 06:15:23 am

Marzi pan on handle bar grips.

Ice · **Reply #26 on:** May 04, 2009, 01:31:02 am

Quote from: UncleErnie on April 27, 2009, 07:36:56 pm

I'f you don't mind the smell for a while, rubbing the inside of a banana peel on stuff gives it some oil and sheen.
No- really!

I believe you. Banana oil was routinely used as light viscosity lubricant long, long ago.
My elders claimed it was one of the ingredients in Hoppes #9.

clamp · **Reply #27 on:** May 04, 2009, 01:42:19 am

And I do beleive you can eat the soft fleshy center, but I would stand advised on that one.

Oh and monkeys use them, you dont see monkeys with heomoroids do you?

No---those are Baboons.

UncleErnie · **Reply #28 on:** May 04, 2009, 03:23:24 am

I sincerely thank you for doing that bit of research on my behalf.
I shall cross that off my list of things to do.

Grommit · **Reply #29 on:** May 14, 2009, 12:15:39 am

May I suggest something that will not only make the rubber and vinyl parts look good, but also give them excellent UV protection as well: 303 Aerospace Protectant. Look it up on the web. I have used it for a long time and everything that's been swabbed with it has remained supple and looks good. It's great for tires left in the sun, all kinds of uses.

geoffbaker · **Reply #30 on:** May 14, 2009, 12:55:14 am

will it protect us during re-entry though?

PhilJ · **Reply #31 on:** May 18, 2009, 10:59:31 pm

It was made for aircraft lexan windshields and windows. Good stuff.

Author Topic: 2 questions; axles and Armorall ~ (Read 7433 times)

geoffbaker