[UncleErnie]

I'm very sorry- I know this stuff is inhere somewhere, but the type is so small I have a hard time reading- especially when it's in those blue boxes in the search results.  So-

1) Rear axle is still loose after chain adjustment.  That 30mm nut doesn't pull it in tight.  What am I doing wrong here?

2)  Just happened to note that Mr Thumper recommended Armorall for rubber bits, and several people said there are better things to use.  Question; Like what?  Possum fat? (A plentiful natural recource around here)

PS;  1b)  2500 miles and I've had to adjust the chin a couple of times now.  is that normal?  Does riding like a maniac have any effect on this?  (great day today, eh?  What?)

[ace.cafe]

Didja get the axle spacers in right?

[UncleErnie]

I didn't take any spacers out.  Tok off the brake retainer-thinger nut, the castle nut, and the 30mm nut under that, and lossened up the axle on the right side so both nubby moon-shaped adjusters are loose.  (Tough job getting those to stay where I want them.  Tightened down the 30mm, but the axle is still losse.  Whacked it with a mallet, and everything fell apart. 

One wonders why there aren't adjusting screws like Japanese bikes use...

[The Garbone]

The 30mm nut only tightens the break assembly to the left hand side of the swing arm..  The castle nut tightens down the axle.. 

The first time I did my chain I was under the impression that the 30mm nut did both and the castle was just to lock it in place.  Not so,  If you take off the castle you can slide out the axle without touching the 30mm.  There are 2 spacers on axle on  the right side of the tire that come off, allowing tire changing without touching the chain/ break assembly.

Example.

[UncleErnie]

Get outta town!   I('ll be dipped...  Well, i'll have to take a look at all that with a different pair of glasses in the AM.  Thanks.

BTW- have you figured out that tub?  Up and running?

[The Garbone]

Still thinking about the hack... Was going to run down to the folks in Holopaw and take a look at some of their Ural rigs before I a decide to sell the tub for something lighter (cozy), put it on and suffer or get a XS1100 or GL1000 to tow it around.  Was gonna go down Saturday but ended up fixing flats, changing oil, adjusting my solo saddle and fixing my rattling Indian shorty pipe....

[scoTTy]

u guys work more on your re's than I do.. I just start it up on the center stand and it walks backwards across the garage floor ..  now if I give it gas it prances  backwards

[The Garbone]

u guys work more on your re's than I do.. I just start it up on the center stand and it walks backwards across the garage floor ..  now if I give it gas it prances  backwards

At times I think my RE hates me...  I think that has something to do with my inability to leave well enough alone...

[Shelley CC]

Still thinking about the hack... Was going to run down to the folks in Holopaw and take a look at some of their Ural rigs before I a decide to sell the tub for something lighter (cozy)

Garbone,
If you're going to browse Urals, check out the new Tourist-T model:  pared-down and flat black (that would be my first choice).  When it comes to dedicated sidecar-rigs, it truly is hard to beat a Ural.  Tell Gene and Paul that Shelley in Michigan said "Hi".     Fabulous chaps, those two.

[UncleErnie]

Most bikes I do the bare miniumum- while insisting they run very well.
The Musket Ball has me fairly paranoid- for many years I swore I'd never get one unless , somehow, there was no other choice.  So, I'm riding as much as i can to shake out any potential problems.  My other cain driven bike has an O-ring chain and rarely needs adjustment.  I do know that new chains streatch a bit at first, so I'm hoping that's the bit.

Here's another question;  Where's the rear brake cam and do I need a grease gun to lube it?

[PhilJ]

Hey UncleErnie,

When you adjust your chain, make sure the the specified freeplay is with you on the bike. Otherwise it may stretch out again. In 10K miles I've adjusted mine twice.

I use ATF on my chains, they don't collect grit and the chains last longer IMO/experience. It has to be lubed more frequently I think but the reward are worth it at leas for me.

[ace.cafe]

Most bikes I do the bare miniumum- while insisting they run very well.
The Musket Ball has me fairly paranoid- for many years I swore I'd never get one unless , somehow, there was no other choice.  So, I'm riding as much as i can to shake out any potential problems.  My other cain driven bike has an O-ring chain and rarely needs adjustment.  I do know that new chains streatch a bit at first, so I'm hoping that's the bit.

Here's another question;  Where's the rear brake cam and do I need a grease gun to lube it?

The rear brake cam is behind the brake plate, directly behind the pivot for the brake arm.
No grease gun needed. You just remove the brake plate, push the shoe out of the way from the cam, put a very light coat of grease on the surface of it, and reassemble.

[PaulF]

2)  Just happened to note that Mr Thumper recommended Armorall for rubber bits, and several people said there are better things to use.  Question; Like what?  Possum fat? (A plentiful natural recource around here)

[/quote]

Ernie, ArmorAll contains silicone. Silicone dries out whatever it touches. There are a number of products that don't contain it. I've tried one or two, here and there - and then tossed them. Unfortunaely, I can't find anything that leaves that nice of a gloss except the silicone-based stuff. If anyone else knows of anything....

[Thumper]

If you have doubts about Armor-All then just try one of the many many other vinyl dressings at the auto store. Again, if it's silicon you're worried about then get one that doesn't contain any.

I've used many vinyl dressings for 31 years not so much for the appearance but as a protectant. I've never had Armor-All (or any commercial vinyl dressing) dry out rubber or vinyl.

Matt

[23hp]

Ernie, ArmorAll contains silicone. Silicone dries out whatever it touches. There are a number of products that don't contain it. I've tried one or two, here and there - and then tossed them. Unfortunaely, I can't find anything that leaves that nice of a gloss except the silicone-based stuff. If anyone else knows of anything....

Agreed.  I have used Armorall on various cars and it is like an adictive drug.  The material becomes dry and faded and you have to reapply constantly in order to keep the appearance up.  It can never go back to normal.

On the Enfield and my latest car I have used a damp cloth as was recommended here somewhere.   It still looks great!