Author Topic: Draining fork oil  (Read 5390 times)

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PhilJ

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on: April 10, 2009, 12:05:22 pm
How does one get that blasted screw/bolt off the end of the forks?

I tried a ratchet but had to get my long torque wrench. But still, when it started to turn it never loosened. So I put it back until I know more.

Help me know more! :(


Thumper

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Reply #1 on: April 10, 2009, 12:20:58 pm
No secret. Just an expectant 1st-time-pain and then an audible 'snap' when it breaks free.

I filled up the very end amount a half ounce at a time so as not to overfill - I found from experience that it's easier to put the stuff in then drain it!

http://members.verizon.net/allofusmorrows/RE_maintenance.htm

Matt


PhilJ

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Reply #2 on: April 10, 2009, 01:39:02 pm
Thanks Matt, I guess I'll just keep on loosening until oil appears. 


PhilJ

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Reply #3 on: April 10, 2009, 02:01:17 pm
Well Matt, I tried just loosening and loosening. Must have turned ten revs. The nut still appears snugged up to the forks, not moving any, just turning.


Thumper

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Reply #4 on: April 10, 2009, 02:06:24 pm
Weird.
Is there any way to get something up under the surface to pry and apply downwards force while you're unscrewing?

I can look at mine this evening and see if there's anything eye-opening there...

Matt


UncleErnie

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Reply #5 on: April 10, 2009, 02:07:02 pm
  doody

Sure sounds like the threads are stripped...
BTW, I was told by the manufacturer of my torque wrench not to use it as a wrench.  To add leverage, I put a pipe on the end of my ratchet.
Also, dial back to zero when it's not in use.
Run what ya brung


PhilJ

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Reply #6 on: April 10, 2009, 03:34:58 pm
Yes mine stays on zero. It was being used  only to unscrew, just like a pipe on the end of a wrench.

I looked for a place to apply the pressure you alluded to Matt. Nothing. There's some sort of washer there and nothing unscrews, just revolves.

I would think it unlikely to be stripped, as it would probably have leaked. The other fork is works, I just tried it, thought I had tried it first. So it may be the right fork was stripped at factory install. This is the first time I've tried to change the fork oil. I'll call my dealer. The warranty runs out in 3 days.  :o

Note: What do ya'll think about apply a little heat to the nut?

« Last Edit: April 10, 2009, 03:56:35 pm by PhilJ »


mbevo1

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Reply #7 on: April 10, 2009, 05:33:49 pm
I think the problem is the drain nut is on the bottom of the shaft that goes down through the lower end of the fork leg (damper rod, or something like that). I think Snidal recommends a sharp rap with a mallet on the bottom of the stud while twisting the nut with a box-end wrench... 

I had similar symptoms with mine, but since I was removing the fork legs to install fork gaiters, I left them alone until I had unscrewed the fork legs from the casquette and just turned the legs upside down in a bucket to drain. 

Mike and Stumpy in Michigan
'07 Classic - Stumpy
'10 C5 Military - Sherman


PhilJ

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Reply #8 on: April 10, 2009, 07:17:57 pm
Well Mike your are the closest.

I called my dealer. A mechanical wiz. He said that the fork tube was turning in the fork. That I should put some weight on the front end and try. I got my wife to set on the bike, never mind the implication, and bingo the cap nut came off.

All is well in bikeville.

Thanks for all the replies.

Phil


UncleErnie

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Reply #9 on: April 10, 2009, 10:07:07 pm
Wow- great tip.
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PhilJ

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Reply #10 on: April 12, 2009, 12:58:24 pm
One last note on the fork oil.
After getting the cap nut off as described above, I drained the oil from both forks in separate pans. It was the first fork oil change for me a little late per the manual but so what. At any rate I took one look at both pans and thought I'd measure what came out. There was never a leak any where. One side had 100 ml the other 120 ml. from several different manuals I found it supposed to be 200 ml. Bad factory!

At any rate 200 ml of 20 wt hydraulic oil and the bike rides better than ever. My first RE, I didn't know what to expect. Now I know to never trust the factory to things right. Buy your new bike and check it like it's a used one.


UncleErnie

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Reply #11 on: April 12, 2009, 02:29:42 pm
I've seen a million suggestions on fork oil weight.  How much do you weigh, and how did you decide on 20 weight oil?  (Is 10-20 weight even available in the 'States?)
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PhilJ

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Reply #12 on: April 12, 2009, 02:46:29 pm
With riding gear etc. about 200 lbs.

I couldn't find 10W-30 hydraulic oil 20 wt is in the middle of 10-30. Right or wrong? I don't know. It's easy to change now, so if I find a snafu with it, a different wt will go in. Or a blend of different wts. to get what I like.

Note: I think if you blend, it should be done within the same brand.


Chasfield

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Reply #13 on: April 12, 2009, 04:32:51 pm
I have 10W fork oil in my forks.  Anything clean and reasonably fluid was always going to work  better than the lard that came out of them. !0W is maybe a bit mushy but it is comfy on  crumbling UK roads.
2001 500 Bullet Deluxe


PhilJ

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Reply #14 on: April 12, 2009, 04:50:55 pm
That was really nasty stuff that came out. I was amazed and angered that the factory couldn't even get the correct quantity.


clamp

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Reply #15 on: May 03, 2009, 06:48:14 am
You dont need to use the wife or anyone elses wife. Personally I could"nt be doing with the earache and the nagging that will no doubt go along with it.    And you let her into your workshop --and let her sit on it.

      I think I'lle phone me mate up instead ,--he would no doubt bring a six pack as well, and does not say things like --darling what this doohicky  thing for?

     Anyway this is a 10,000  mile year job and I prefer to slip the forks out and turn them upside down and swill them out with petrol.  (get the gunk out).

    Oil ?  doesnt matter its just damping oil,  Cooking oil,   Palm ,corn,    sunflower what ever, but fork oil from the motorbike shop would be good,
« Last Edit: May 03, 2009, 06:52:00 am by clamp »
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PhilJ

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Reply #16 on: May 03, 2009, 09:36:13 am
She was handy, Clamp, and she used to ride her own Beemer till we had our daughter. Then she mostly became a woman.  ::)


clamp

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Reply #17 on: May 03, 2009, 11:59:07 am
Yeah them Beemer' s  will make a man out of yer  every time.

      See a Beemer you see a good bloke.
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PaulF

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Reply #18 on: May 08, 2009, 07:34:46 pm
That was really nasty stuff that came out. I was amazed and angered that the factory couldn't even get the correct quantity.

Phil, my fork oil came out like molasses - and not much of it either. Replaced with good quality Bel Ray blue 15W. Much better.


UncleErnie

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Reply #19 on: May 08, 2009, 10:09:16 pm
That does it- I'm changing mine out, too. 
Did I read that there is a mearurment from the top to make sure the correct amount is in there? 
Did you use a regular slotted screwdriver to get those caps off? 
Run what ya brung


PaulF

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Reply #20 on: May 09, 2009, 12:27:54 am
Yeah Ernie. Funny you should ask. The top screws were marred up somewaht. I didn't notice because the cables ran over top of them. I dunno if it was sloppy Indians or a ham-fisted dealer.

I drained them till drip-dry, them pumped the forks some more until nothing left. Added the recommended 200ml / tube. So far, so good. If I happened to overfill it, I probably woudn't notice.

What came out looked like 90W gear oil. The ride on the front was somewhat harsh. Last weekend, I hit a small pothole about the width of a beer stein going 40MPH and I thought my fillings came out! I thought I might have bent the rim. It was around the same time, give or take, that I started reading this string. So I decided to change it. I thought, well, with the 1950s tehno-forks, the ride has to be a little harsh. It was all the fault of the gelatinous goo that was in there. So with a smooth quality fork oil, it may be a little overfilled - but its nice. Again, who put it in, I'm not sure. Besides, if I pop a seal, I'll put in a new one.  8)

After this, I would recommend everyone change their's from the jump. Thanks for bringing this up Phil.


buckeye rider

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Reply #21 on: May 09, 2009, 02:25:35 am
 I just got done changing mine out.Stuff was nasty.


PhilJ

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Reply #22 on: May 09, 2009, 03:12:06 pm
Your welcome Paul. I'm going to change mine again soon because I also wasn't smart enough to flush the forks before putting in new oil. Well, an Einstein I'm not.  :P


REpozer

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Reply #23 on: May 19, 2009, 01:29:29 am
Phil ,
Thanks for the tip.
I drained my India fork oil out, like you said, right fork probably 200ml came out , the left fork, almost nothing, I even got one the bike and pumped the front end up and down till nothing came out.
I repaced each fork with 200ml of 10w-30 ( that's what I have on the shelf) rides better now no clunk sound on pot holes.
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PhilJ

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Reply #24 on: May 19, 2009, 01:53:30 am
Great Pozer, I know how I felt when I got things sorted. It rode so much better. But if you don't know how a bike is normally, the thought isn't always right on the tip, so to speak. Glad it worked for you too.