[geoffbaker]

I'm having an issue with first gear. It pops out fairly regularly. I've been trying to adjust the main shift plate on the gearbox inner cover, and wondered if I should be focusing elsewhere - clutch perhaps?

Also, I no longer get a neutral light at all, even though I now don't have much trouble finding neutral. All gearing seems to work pretty well except first.

Advice, anyone?

[JordanMix]

i dont have a parts manual with me but you may want to look at the little plunger that stops the gearts in the proper position. If you take your outside transmision cover plate off and look in the upper right hand corner you will see a bolt with a flat head and a nut on it. I would losen this nut and then screw the bolt in one full turn... listen/feel for it to click into place. I had this problem with third gear, after this adjustment .... problem solved.


This is if you have the 4 speed gearbox.... i have no experiece with the newer 5 speed.

[Blltrdr]

 Geoff I would check the gear operator selector and make sure the plunger assembly is working correctly. At the same time look at the tip of the selector and make sure it is not to worn (rounded) this could be the cause of it not staying in gear. Since it is only first you are having trouble with it could possibly be the detent on the gear operator is worn to the point that the gear operator selector will not stay in position. If this is the case you will have to pull off your inner case and check for wear. Might be a good time to install a close ratio gear set or anything else you have been putting off.

Blltrdr

[geoffbaker]

Thanks, I did adjust the detent; but that's a good point... I'll tighten it up some more, it may make the difference!

Still don't know wny my neutral light disappeared though. It's not electrical, I think... I've checked the bulb and the wiring.

[t120rbullet]

When you adjust the gear operator selector screw it in all the way and then back it off 1 or 1 1/2 turns. Make sure the end isn't worn off. I took the one out of my 01 and about 1/8 inch was gone off the end and it still sort-of shifted.
Another thing you might want to look at is the nut that holds the neutral finder on. The one with the big spring under it.  Finger tight only! Too tight and and things stop working.
 
The neutral switch just grounds out on a bump on the gear operator. Most of the time just taking it out and cleaning it will fix it. It's plastic so don't use a heavy hand on it.

Here is a post Terry Smith the old Canadian importer did on adjusting the ratchet if the easy stuff don't fix your 1st gear problem.

Adjusting the shifter movement is not the easiest thing to explain
and it's
even more frustrating to do. If you have  a parts book please refer
to it
while I try to explain the adjustment.

First thing to do is remove the gear box cover. The neutral finder
should
come off with your fingers as it should not be completely tightened
down.
The spring holds it from loosening off. Remove the kick starter. Now
there
are five screws to remove around the perimeter of the cover. The
small screw
that holds the inspection cover in the top left corner is one of the
screws.
Now the cover can be slid off the kick start shaft and rotated around
so
that you can pull the clutch cable from the lever inside the cover.

In the left hand top corner of the inner cover you will see the
ratchet
mechanism. As you shift gears the foot control ratchet (outer) will
rotate
and engage a tooth of the inner ratchet. What happens if this
mechanism is
not adjusted correctly is that the outer ratchet will just miss a
tooth on
the inner ratchet and by the time it reaches the next tooth you have
run out
of movement on your foot shift; therefore the gear will not engage.

The very back plate is called the foot control adjuster plate and is
slotted
to allow you to move it side to side in order to get the outer and
inner
ratchets to engage properly. What you are trying to achieve is that
the
outer ratchet catches the closest tooth of the inner ratchet as it
move
through the gears in both directions. Since you have a left side
shift lever
you may need another person to help you.

The foot control stop plate which holds this ratchet mechanism
together has
two holes in it which will allow you to see the inner ratchet. While
rotating the rear wheel have someone shift for you while you watch
the outer
ratchet engage the inner ratchet. You should be able to see if the
outer
ratchet is slipping past a tooth on the inner ratchet. If so, the
adjuster
plate will have to be moved until the outer ratchet connects with the
closest tooth on the inner ratchet each time you shift gears. To
adjust the
plate you will have to remove the stop plate. There are only two
small nuts
holding it in place. The foot control adjuster plate pins can now be
loosened off so that the adjuster plate can be moved side to side.
You'll
just have to play with it until it does what you want it to do. You
may have
to assemble everything and ride the bike and come back and make
further
adjustments to get it working right.

I hope all this makes sense to you. Let me know how you make out.

[geoffbaker]

thanks, t120r

Yeah, I've been playing with that shift plate and it IS frustrating. One thing I AM going to do is that as soon (if ever!) as I get it set right, I'm going to find some way of scribing a mark on it so that it will be easier to get that "sweet spot" in future.

Good tip on the neutral finder bolt - I KNOW based on what you just wrote that I've got that on too tight!

The switch I've cleaned a couple of times. Not sure what the problem is but I defintitely am still experiencing general electrical problems so it may be related to that.

I'll adjust some more and do as you suggest with the detent screw. I'm betting that will fix it.

As I will be removing every wire in my bullet in the next week, I'll replace the whole neutral wire as well and see if that solves my problem.

You'd be amazed how many craciked wires you can find, once you start looking!

I'm replacing the wiring because I am installing motogadget's m-unit - a single solid state device that replaces every fuse, relay and flasher in the system. Additionally, I'm putting in a Boyer power box to replace the old reg/rec.

Hopefully, my wiring troubles will all be over soon...

[t120rbullet]

One thing you can do to test the switch is disconnect the wire on it and just ground it out on the closest piece of metal you see. The light should come on then.
If not maybe your gear operator (fork) is bent and it's not hitting the probe on the switch.
CJ

[The Garbone]

I had a similar problem with my 8n going into 1st and reverse at the same time...  Of course that has absolutely no bearing on your troubles... I will shut up now..   Great thread...

[geoffbaker]

Well, the neutral light must be in the wire somewhere... grounding it DOES not light the lamp. So that's good to know!

More adjusting tomorrow.

I want to ride it before ripping all the electrics out... but the neutral light wire now gives me another reason to get in and get the job done...

[t120rbullet]

Well, the neutral light must be in the wire somewhere... grounding it DOES not light the lamp. So that's good to know!

Ignition was on?

[t120rbullet]

I had a similar problem with my 8n going into 1st and reverse at the same time...  Of course that has absolutely no bearing on your troubles... I will shut up now..   Great thread...

So how fast would it go in that gear?

I used to have an old Ford van with a 3 on the tree. It would pop out of 1 gear and into another at the same time. Had to jump out, open the hood and pop the t shaped thing back into the forks at almost every light. The plastic collar that held it all together was cracked and to replace it the whole steering column had to come out.
Sold it with an inner tube tied around it.
CJ 

[Cabo Cruz]

"Sold it with an inner tube tied around it."  CJ 

 

[geoffbaker]

yes, ignition was on

[The Garbone]

I had a similar problem with my 8n going into 1st and reverse at the same time...  Of course that has absolutely no bearing on your troubles... I will shut up now..   Great thread...

So how fast would it go in that gear?

I used to have an old Ford van with a 3 on the tree. It would pop out of 1 gear and into another at the same time. Had to jump out, open the hood and pop the t shaped thing back into the forks at almost every light. The plastic collar that held it all together was cracked and to replace it the whole steering column had to come out.
Sold it with an inner tube tied around it.
CJ 

To continue with the thread jacking...

 It would not go,  It would be instant lawn ornament until I removed the top cover and popped the shift forks back into alignment.   Happened a lot when grading or moving earth.  The problem ended up being a missing bearing/spring that served as a tension device on top shift rod.  The machine was so filthy I did not know the hole was there until I studied the shop manual.  Cleaned it up, replaced the parts and gasket for about $4 and its been running like a top ever since...

[baird4444]

Thanks, I did adjust the detent; but that's a good point... I'll tighten it up some more, it may make the difference!
Still don't know wny my neutral light disappeared though. It's not electrical, I think... I've checked the bulb and the wiring.

don't forget that the plunger needs to be VERTICAL on the inside. Check the orientation with the screw slot to keep it that way.
                    - Mike