Author Topic: 2007 Bullet 500 - starter delete + gear change/brake swap  (Read 1695 times)

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matjas

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Hi Guys
New here but been lurking for some time already.

just acquired a 2007 bullet 500, cast iron barrel, with the unfortunate starter + ass ugly left side covers/primary case.
bike is in near-pristine condition with only 3800kms on the odo.

removing the starter alone seems straightforward but I would like to revert the bikes aesthetics to the older version and this is where all of the unanswered questions emerge...

how can I move the gear change to where it belongs? 5 speed tranny aboard. I THINK I came across a solution somewhere in the Indian sites but for the life of me cannot find it again.
also - HEARD it is darn impossible to have a 19 tooth sprocket fitted with the shift shaft going to the left - this is to be confirmed yet.

any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

best regards from Poland!
m




Paul W

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Reply #1 on: January 28, 2022, 01:21:27 pm
If you want to go down the expensive but straightforward route, by buying a conversion kit, you might like to look here:

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/5-Speed-Right-Shift-Conversion/18965

I did my own conversion although it was less work for me because my bike already had a right sided gearbox; I removed the original four speed and converted a newly purchased five speed to right side change. The only difficult part to make was the gear change shaft. I marked up the inner face of the outer gearbox case from behind, using a centre drift (gearbox on the bench, not in the bike!), then had a local engineering shop mill it out to suit a bronze bush for the newly converted "right sided" change shaft to run in. There is already a groove for an O ring seal to seal the shaft.

I think you will need blanking plugs for the inner and outer primary chain case castings, as well as for the inner side of the gearbox to blank off where the left sided change shaft used to run through from right to left.
« Last Edit: January 28, 2022, 01:48:39 pm by Paul W »
Paul W.


matjas

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Reply #2 on: January 28, 2022, 01:49:32 pm
hi Paul

thanks for chiming in.
I have seen the hicock kit along with its ridiculous price.

Mine has got the 5 speed and with the lug in the cover I can see where to machine the hole, inset a bronze bushing+seal recess. This is doable locally no prob.
I think I will have to go the DIY route for this - better still as I need to purchase the whole left side to get rid off the horrid left case and this cannot be done myself so prefer to spend over there.

Does anybody know WHAT do I need to buy in order to revert to the old type cover? Will the new alternator fit under or is this also to be replaced? That would jump the difficulty of the swap couple of levels up :/

best regards
matjas


Adrian II

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Reply #3 on: January 28, 2022, 05:33:06 pm
Once you've done the swap to right foot shift and left foot rear brake, you will need a new inner cover, the old outer one can be re-used with a neat alloy plug for where the left foot gear shift passes through (I think a European 20c piece is about the right size). Also a set of three 8mm mounting studs with nuts and washers as used by the late kickstart models, a 6.8mm drill, a set of 8mm taps, a new inner gasket, and a new kick start Buller 25T engine sprocket. Some folks machine the starter gear off the E/S' engine sprocket, but it's a load of hassle. You should be able to keep the alternator and primary chain.

Also the mounting holes for the inner are in a different position then for the kick start inner, so you will deed to drill the crankcases 3 x 6.8mm and then tap for a trio if 8mm studs off the kickstart model. With the covers off you will see almost exactly where to drill! This can be done with the engine still in the frame if you can hold a power drill straight.  ;D This was me playing with a set of project crankcases.





Use a 10mm drill to mark the positions.



Whereupon, thou shalt drill thrice. Three shall be the number thereof.



Cut your threads and done!



Don't forget the kick start gasket.

Hitchcocks' used to sell a kit for this as well as their right foot shift conversion, I think it's still listed somewhere on their web site. If you can source the parts elsewhere, fine.

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


matjas

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Reply #4 on: March 17, 2022, 05:45:11 pm
Story goes on...

made a SS muffler. straight throught MF but with decently factory perforated middle and lots of wool packing. the core pipe was wound with SS wool. The very inlet has NO packing so that the hot gasses can expand instantly and cool down.
the hot pipe served as a dB killer of sorts at the end of the muffler bringing up the backpressure and taming the sound down a bit but still... this is the nicest sounding pipe I have ever had in any of my bikes. Ever. Not obnoxiously loud but grunty, healthy bass and heaps of low down torque.

Still to be black powder coated.

The last pic shows a very old and very clever device for setting the piston at BEFORE the tdc spot for static ignition timing.
Inserted into the spark plug hole it can show the real TDC, can be retracted by 0,1mm increments back into the barrel and then can be locked so that the piston stays the required 0,8mm before TDC for points to be locked. Very good piece of kit. At least 50 years old.
« Last Edit: March 17, 2022, 06:03:15 pm by matjas »


matjas

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Reply #5 on: March 17, 2022, 05:50:13 pm
Sorry but only four attachments can be done at a time.

Here you can see the muffler already welded fully with the final piece. Inside there is the hot pipe locked with a M6 screw from the bottom.

Borrowed the indian seat from my friend to copy it. Started with pieces of 4mm hot rolled steel flatwork cut every couple of centimetres to allow bending. Then the cuts are filled with weld and ground flat. Should be plenty strong, plus I am going to beef it up a little compared to the original design. Time consuming but really satisfactory affair.

Last picture shows the most nerve wrecking operation of drilling freehand into the engine block to fit the old type inside primary cover. Holes then were M8 tapped to accomodate the original screws. All went good and no motorcycles were harmed during this operation :D
« Last Edit: March 17, 2022, 06:08:50 pm by matjas »


matjas

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Reply #6 on: March 17, 2022, 05:52:31 pm
I decided I want the primary outside cover and the timing gear cover black. The timing cover is yet to be painted. I decided to go for acrylic paint in case I ever change my mind + did not want to bead blast the pump casing etc... I do know how this glass dust is difficult to get rid off from these oily and tiny crevices. Better play it safe here.

Needed to hand chamfer the stud posts to accomodate the original screws. Steady hand I tell you :D

Still plan to weld an internal aluminium drilled stud into the bottom wall of the inside primary case to facilitate a proper drain hole for the oil and avoid this bloody mess when opening the outside cover.

These two ribs under the alternator and the chain tensioner need to be cross drilled with a 4mm drill - otherwise the oil will be pooling in there and not draining off fully.
« Last Edit: March 17, 2022, 06:34:19 pm by matjas »


matjas

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Reply #7 on: March 17, 2022, 05:53:59 pm
last but not the least...

Needed to move the gear change to the right but did not want to move the brake to the left.
With all the years of riding in me and all the other bikes I ride I decided this is really a safety issue for me. SO...

The brake will stay on the right and the gear change will be done by ... hand :D probably one of the very few REBs in the world with this kind of contraption.
One of the good things about it there will be no need to drill the gearbox cover for the shaft and machine for the seal and to refabricate the shaft to have the splines on the right side.
I cut the shaft just 3mms proud of the left hand side cover and turned a bush do that it sits nicely and has something to bear within.
On the right hand side there is a little, maybe, 50mms gap between the gearbox and engine cases - I turned a huge nut to snugly fit over the gear actuator shaft, drilled/tapped the shaft and welded a bent/shaped flatwork to this 40mm nut/sleeve /sorry no pics yet/. Later the nut with the actuator lever is going to be welded together and the nut will be fastened to the shaft with a good quality 6mm allen head bolt - tight fit in there but doable with minimal fiddling.

Now I just need to connect it to the upper part of the shifter mechanism which will live on top of the cylinder head + probably will engage the front fuel tank holding screw. Jury is still out on how this is going to be done :D

Plenty of work but this bike has been bought with this in mind. To have something to let the creativity juices flowing.


The spring is coming over soon, the war behing our eastern border does not fill me with happiness but I am still planning to respoke the wheels and powder paint the rims and drums black + stripe paint the very bling bling bling shiny mudguards.

This year I got a new CRF300rally so I have a nice and new bike to ride but Bullet gives me so much smile riding it I cannot wait for the project to come to the end!

best regards from Poland.
m
« Last Edit: March 17, 2022, 06:31:08 pm by matjas »


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #8 on: March 17, 2022, 06:44:54 pm
I hope this project gives your mind some diversion from thinking about the border problems. Will the hand shift be on the left or right side of the bike? If on the left, how will you both actuate the clutch and shift with your left hand?


matjas

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Reply #9 on: March 17, 2022, 07:30:36 pm
Right hand shift.

Left hand shift would also be possible with clutch lever on the change stick but this is way beyond practical for me.

The only downside I can think of regarding the right hand shift at the tank is a PROBABLE inability to blip throttle between the downshifts but still think it will boil down to practice. I am plannning on placing the shifter as close to the throttle as possible.



matjas

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Reply #10 on: June 15, 2023, 10:30:03 pm
This has beeeeeeen a long time :)
But I am back ;)


Mr_84

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Reply #11 on: June 16, 2023, 07:48:45 am
Very nice , did you end up doing the hand gear shift? I can still see the brake pedal still on the right but what happened on the left ?
« Last Edit: June 16, 2023, 07:52:57 am by Mr_84 »