[rick505]

Over in the "Classics" forum Indiana Josh started a thread about adjusting the clutch cable that evolved quite a bit.  While I was out riding yesterday I started to pay attention to my clutch and, although it doesn't slip I have to almost release the lever before I hit the friction zone.  Since this, 2008 AVL Classic, is my first bike and the only other bike I've ever ridden was a Honda Nighthawk (I think) in the MSF class, is this normal??  I probably should have posted a picture but there doesn't seem to be too much adjustment at the controls end of the cable.  Ideally, I'd like to have the friction zone start about the middle of the lever travel.  Seeing some of the pics at http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,3443.0.html I'd hate to play around and really mess something up especially since the clutch does seem to work I just think I'd like it engage earlier so I'd have more control.

So should I leave well enough alone??

Thanks in advance,

Rick

PS - You guys were right, at 500 miles now and an initial service the bike does seem to be coming into its own.

[UncleErnie]

There's supposed to be around 2cm / 16th inch "free-play" where the lever stops at the perch (as seen under that rubber boot).  If you have an adjusting screw at the perch, but the cable is still new (not stretched yet) and it's all the way in, then go to where the cable enters the engine case.
AS you see in the picture in that link, there is a lock nut and adjuster.  Loosen the locker nut and adjust until you have that free-play (screwing in / clockwise).  I find that it's hard to tell when it's engaging just sitting there, so a little riding-adjusting along the street in front of you house should get it just right.  Don't forget to tighten the lock nut again while holding the cable nut with another wrench.

[PhilJ]

I would recommend getting a workshop manual from CMW. Some even like the Snidel.

Either way there is a good procedure for clutch adjusting with pictures, which as the saying goes, is better than a thousand words. Use that once and you've got it for life, because you will understand it better having read, seen picture and put hands on. before long if your unlucky you'll have the manual memorized. 

[Thumper]

Over in the "Classics" forum Indiana Josh started a thread about adjusting the clutch cable that evolved quite a bit.  While I was out riding yesterday I started to pay attention to my clutch and, although it doesn't slip I have to almost release the lever before I hit the friction zone.  Since this, 2008 AVL Classic, is my first bike and the only other bike I've ever ridden was a Honda Nighthawk (I think) in the MSF class, is this normal??  I probably should have posted a picture but there doesn't seem to be too much adjustment at the controls end of the cable.  Ideally, I'd like to have the friction zone start about the middle of the lever travel.  Seeing some of the pics at http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,3443.0.html I'd hate to play around and really mess something up especially since the clutch does seem to work I just think I'd like it engage earlier so I'd have more control.

So should I leave well enough alone??

Thanks in advance,

Rick

PS - You guys were right, at 500 miles now and an initial service the bike does seem to be coming into its own.

Yes, I would leave well enough alone. It has been my experience twice now that when I have the clutch cable misadjusted it won't go into 1st or neutral when downshifting or coming to a stop - after the engine has warmed. A simple adjustment at the lever - both times - has corrected the problem.

Matt

[Joe28]

It's always a good idea when ever you own a new scoot, get as many repair books as you can on it and just look through it!
I think the owners manual with the bike tells how to adjust it??
You also have to consider clutch oil when you look to see where it "grabs".
If'n it's cold and you have a heavier clutch oil, it'll "slip" more, til it warms up.
It may grab different cold/warm/hot.
A thin oil like ATF will make it, "grabbier" .
Best bet, take it back to the dealer and let him adjust it to spec, order a manual, ask how you can do it.
I tell my sons, "is it slipping? Is there "free play at the lever? Yes? leave it alone!
Just my 2 cents!
Joe
I ride, therefore I am!

[Tiny Tim]

In real terms, the clutch cable adjustment and the clutch adjustment should be considered as two independant items.

My advice is to adjust the clutch cable so that you have the minimum of free play at the lever. This means that there is no chance of you "riding the clutch" unless you ride with the clutch lever pulled in.

Next, undo the locknut behind the plate on the gearbox half a turn. An open ended (13 m.m. I think) spanned on it's end and a pair of vice grips will get it)

Turning the slotted head of the clutch actuating rod will adjust the clutch in or out.

BE WARNED - a little goes a long way! Use the hands of the clock to make adjustments. If it's at three o'colck adjust it to 10 past or twenty past. No need to pinch up the lock nut to test the results but make sure you do before you finish.

Finally, re-check the cable free play.

Job Done.

If you've got it right, there'll be no clutch slip when plodding up a hill and selection of neutral should be easy from 1st or second.

REgards

TT

[tony_s]

I'd like to add my dumb question:

Is the rear tire supposed to turn while in gear with the lever all pulled all the way in or not?  Does this depend on temp/oil as well?  I don't think I've seen a definitive answer when I've seen it mentioned on other threads.

Hopefully someone can let me know if when I adjusted the screw according to Snidal manual to get it to stop, I didn't mess something up.  I'm at about 900 miles, and sadly it looks like my local dealer closed in the last month.



- Tony

[The Garbone]

If on the center stand you might be getting drag through the clutch basket, it should not be severe (chop your fingers off if you grab the spokes) or propel the bike when  not on the center stand, if so you might have an adjustment issue.

[Tiny Tim]

With the bike on the centre stand, the engine running and neutral selected, movement at the rear wheel is not unusual.

To see if any adjustment is needed, apply the back brake whilst listening to the engine note.

If there is no change then you have nothing to be concerned about.

As the gearbox is in neutral, there can be no problem. As Garbone said, it's only clutch basket drag.

Get out and enjoy it.