Author Topic: HELP people. I am very worried. (Read 14378 times)

jayprashanth · **on:** January 27, 2009, 03:39:28 pm

Hello gentlemen,

Seems that I have a problem on hand here. Today after work, I started my AVL LB500. It started without the choke in one kick with the decomp used. I was extremely happy and I warmed it up and rode it down the street. The bike wasn't pulling well for the first two hundred metres. I assumed that it would be as the bike may not have warmed up fully. After a couple of KMs down the road, I found that the bike was smooth but my seat of the pants feel told me the power wasn't definitely up to the mark. So I turned around and brought the bike back in.

I checked the oil levels. Oil levels were correct. Then I checked the spark plug for any oil foulage. The spark plug was dry and showed no oil. Then, I tried a compression test by almost standing on the kickstart lever. Surprisingly, the lever moved without under my 60 kilo(120 pound) weight. Then after cranking the lever with the clutch for a couple of times, I kicked it and it started pretty easy. Please note that I did not use Decomp. Then, I repeated this drill a few times more. With the decomp on and sometimes without it. The bike responded and started easily. Sometimes, the kickstarter wouldn't budge however hard I tried but after standing on it for a while, albeit comically, it moved down. This also happened a few times. Till yesterday, my bike's starter wouldn't budge even if I stood on it.

I took it for another ride to gauge the power. The bike felt much smoother but wasn't picking up speed just as easily. It just didn't have the initial grunt that it had before for half the throttle twisted. Now, I am thinking that my bike is losing compression somewhere as there is a perceptible loss in power. Please advise as to what may be wrong. Pushrods too tight, or maybe the decomp open(highly unlikely as it is working ok) or head gasket leaking or something like that or what are the other factors to consider. Tomorrow, I will be taking my bike to get it serviced as the 500 kilometre mark is almost done. Kindly advise.

REpozer · **Reply #1 on:** January 27, 2009, 04:18:44 pm

The only kind of compression test I know of is thumb over spark plug hole with a good kick. You should feel a gush of air past your thumb.
The kick starter will move easily if the engine is at TDC (Top Dead Center) slightly on the exhaust stroke.At that position a child can kick your engine to life.
The RE engines are assembled very tight ,hence the need for following the run-in procedure. Perhaps you are feeling new engine tightness at the kick start till you arrive at TDC.
The engine will "loosen up" with run-in.Maybe your service man can address these questions as he looks your RE over at 500KM service, just to be sure.

jayprashanth · **Reply #2 on:** January 27, 2009, 04:46:14 pm

Thank you REpozer. I just did what you had advised now. I felt a strong burst of air with a loud popping noise, explode past my thumb when I kicked it hard. I am learning so much from you guys each day. Thank you. Anyway, I will ride it down to the first service tomorrow. I will keep you people informed. Time for me to hit the sack now. It is quarter past ten here in Bangalore. Goodnight everyone.

Cheers,

Jay

jayprashanth · **Reply #3 on:** January 28, 2009, 02:47:09 am

I rode the LB500 to work today. It was pretty smooth and the power was ok. In some time now, I will go to the dealer to leave the bike for service. I will keep you people informed. Thank you.

clamp · **Reply #4 on:** January 28, 2009, 04:44:58 am

You de comp is sticking,-- sometimes it is not seating ,probably cable.

jayprashanth · **Reply #5 on:** January 28, 2009, 03:41:27 pm

I bought my LB500 back after service. It feels smoother and much more eager to rev. The power also seems good now. That said, the kick start isn't hard and doesn't seem different from yesterday. And it seems easy to kick with the decomp on although it is pretty hard when TDC isn't reached. The clutch also seems a wee bit lighter than before. Overall, I'm happy for now. I will go for a longer ride tomorrow after work to further gauge it's performance.

Cheers,

Jay

Cabo Cruz · **Reply #6 on:** January 28, 2009, 03:44:32 pm

Outstanding, Jay!

REpozer · **Reply #7 on:** January 28, 2009, 10:03:02 pm

Most Excellent, Jay!

jayprashanth · **Reply #8 on:** January 29, 2009, 04:14:52 pm

Thank you Cabo Cruz and REpozer.

The motorcycle is running well. I am happy with it. I went for a twenty kilometre run on her and came back satisfied.

Meanwhile, I have a query. How exactly do I check the oil level? Currently I am using this method. First I unscrew the dipstick and clean it dry. Then I dip the dipstick into the oil filler cavity till the dipstick rests on the cavity's opening. Please note that I don't screw in the dipstick. After a few seconds, I remove the dipstick and check the oil level. From what I have learnt, the oil level must be between the cross hatchings, preferably at the top of the cross hatchings.

Now, my query is whether I need to screw in the dipstick completely and check the oil level or whether I need to just rest the dipstick on the top of the oil filler hole and check the oil level. Kindly advise. I have this doubt due to a confusing piece of text from the official Royal Enfield owners manual.

Thumper · **Reply #9 on:** January 29, 2009, 05:15:23 pm

You are supposed to screw in the dipstick for an accurate reading - but after practice most of us don't screw it all the way in anymore - we just account for the oil level on the uscrewed length. Do that after an initial filling with what you know to be the correct amount, run it till warm, check the level screwed in (remember you know it should be a good reading) then check screwed out and note the difference.

It is also a good idea to wait about 1 to 2 minutes before checking the oil on a hot AVL bike - but no more than a couple of minutes.

Matt

Quote from: jayprashanth on January 29, 2009, 04:14:52 pm

Thank you Cabo Cruz and REpozer.

The motorcycle is running well. I am happy with it. I went for a twenty kilometre run on her and came back satisfied.

Meanwhile, I have a query. How exactly do I check the oil level? Currently I am using this method. First I unscrew the dipstick and clean it dry. Then I dip the dipstick into the oil filler cavity till the dipstick rests on the cavity's opening. Please note that I don't screw in the dipstick. After a few seconds, I remove the dipstick and check the oil level. From what I have learnt, the oil level must be between the cross hatchings, preferably at the top of the cross hatchings.

Now, my query is whether I need to screw in the dipstick completely and check the oil level or whether I need to just rest the dipstick on the top of the oil filler hole and check the oil level. Kindly advise. I have this doubt due to a confusing piece of text from the official Royal Enfield owners manual.

jayprashanth · **Reply #10 on:** January 29, 2009, 05:29:23 pm

Thank you Matt,

Before checking the oil levels, I warm the bike up for a couple of minutes. Then, shut if off and wait for the oil to return to the sump for a minute or so. Then I check the levels. So, I guess that is the correct procedure.

1- When I check oil level without screwing the dipstick in, it shows the oil to be somewhere near the three fourths(75%) mark on the cross hatchings.

2- After screwing in the dipstick, the oil level is just above the highest cross hatchings. I am assuming that these levels are acceptable.

Also, when my bike is parked idle for a day, the oil level seems to be very less- just one fourth of the cross hatchings. But once I start her and warm her up, the level indicates normal. From what I know, this might be happening as the oil accumulates at the return pump and needs the engine to be started for the oil to come back. Is my understanding right?

I would love to hear your take on this, especially on my first point and point out whether the oil levels on my steed are correct .

Cheers,

Jay

REpozer · **Reply #11 on:** January 29, 2009, 05:32:28 pm

That's about the same level I run mine, I have not had any problems.(don,t add any more)

Cabo Cruz · **Reply #12 on:** January 29, 2009, 05:44:11 pm

Jay, the procedure that our colleagues, Thumper and Poz (the nickname I use for REPozer), shared with you is, as we say here in the States, "right on the money"!

Also, we enjoy reading about your new owner experiences; so, please, keep those letters and postcards coming!

REpozer · **Reply #13 on:** January 29, 2009, 05:52:28 pm

I like that Papa Juan. I may use Poz or the Poz, gotta ring to it

Cabo Cruz · **Reply #14 on:** January 29, 2009, 06:02:07 pm

Well, Poz, I am glad you like the nickname and the fact that you are considering an RE Forum Moniker change. You, however, will have to make the call, so to say.

In closing, I depicted you name in blue because of the weather out there in Alaska. So, you be sure to stay warm, Brother!

REpozer · **Reply #15 on:** January 29, 2009, 07:11:18 pm

I came up Pozer as a fun name to mock to the H-D folks that purchase a bike and wear new leathers that still have the package creases on it. They ride with a snarl on their face and have trouble balancing the MC at stop lights. You know a pozer ,, all in fun.
I guess I am not really a RE pozer.

UncleErnie · **Reply #16 on:** January 29, 2009, 07:41:40 pm

That's not for you to decide.
Post pictures of your leathers and we'll take a vote.

(Hint; Not shaving for 2 days doesn't fool anyone)

REpozer · **Reply #17 on:** January 29, 2009, 08:55:13 pm

True, Uncle Ernie,
I usually wear a rain coat over my leather jacket when I ride.

I'll see what I can do for a picture.

UncleErnie · **Reply #18 on:** January 29, 2009, 10:22:26 pm

I tried that, but the sheriff makes me wear pants now. Go figure ~

Cabo Cruz · **Reply #19 on:** January 29, 2009, 10:35:14 pm

I tried that, but the sheriff makes me wear pants now. Go figure ~ UncleErnie

Very good, UE!!!

jayprashanth · **Reply #20 on:** January 31, 2009, 07:31:40 am

Hello people,

I am able to start my LB500 without using the choke lever for cold starts. If I kick correctly, she fires up without a protest even without me using the choke. So, my doubt is whether she is running rich(which I have no problem with) or is there any issue with the timing.

Meanwhile, the Pete Snidal manual says that the TCI equipped bullets adjust their ignition timing automatically based on the RPMs. If the timing has gone bad, it is probably because of some fault in the ignition module. So, I am thinking that the timing is OK.

This leaves me the air-fuel mixture which points to a rich mixture as she starts on the first kick even while cold starting. But apart from the jetting, the CV carb is a factory set item which seldom needs adjustments other than the idle setting. Also, if the carb is supplying a lean mixture, it may be due to some jetting malfunction or dirt in the carb. This is what I read from the Snidal manual. After a plug chop, the plug shows a darkish gray(not white). Is my bike running rich? Opinions and analysis please.

REpozer · **Reply #21 on:** January 31, 2009, 07:53:49 am

According to my book "RE Service Manual Bullet Electra" AVL page 11-10
"Normal Combustion Correct running of engine " with the following spark plug tip colours: Dark Brown, Brown, YellowBrown, Light Brown, and Greyish Brown.

jayprashanth · **Reply #22 on:** January 31, 2009, 09:47:58 am

Thank you REpozer.

By spark plug tip, Do you mean the side electrode or the white porcelain part or the small button like tip?

My understanding is that the spark plug tip means button like center electrode, which is the small button like piece that protrudes out of the spark plug from the porcelain. Is this right?

UncleErnie · **Reply #23 on:** January 31, 2009, 12:37:58 pm

There is the "button" as you call it, surrounded by a metal circle. There is a "tab" that curves from the metal circle over the top of the button. (The spark travels between the space bwtween the tab end and the button.) The tab and button should be the main place you're looking for the colour. Usually, the circle is the same colour, but someimes it's a slightly different shade.
If you Google "How to read a spark plug", you will find many articles.
Here is a brif example from Dan's Motorcycle Repair. It's a bit over-simplified, but Dan's site is a good, basic source of information in genewral.

http://www.dansmc.com/sparkplugs1.htm

jayprashanth · **Reply #24 on:** January 31, 2009, 04:16:27 pm

Thank you UncleErnie.

My plug seems to be running on the richer side.

Meanwhile, today afternoon, I took off to a small hill called Nandi Hills on the outskirts of Bangalore. I rode at a steady sixty Ks all the way and I had some fun on the twisties. She felt pretty good but on the corners, I felt that grippier tyres would have made peg scraping easier. I had a couple of scary moments when I felt the rear tyre sliding. Downhill, I had more fun using the torque to my advantage. Overall, a splendid bullet day

While riding on the highway with sparse traffic, I gave a good ear to the engine. She makes a ticking/clicking/clattering noise. This noise is evident especially when accelerating and decelerating in every gear. It does not sound like knocking/pinging. Usually I upshift by ear and feel. I shift to second at about 20Ks on the speedo. Third at 35-40. Fourth at 50 and top gear at 60Ks on the speedo. When I upshift, this clicking noise occurs at engine speeds just before upshifting. This happens in every gear. Also, the same noise occurs while downshifting. This has led me to think that the noise could be due to the pulse air valve working. This noise does not occur on a cold engine. On a warm engine it occurs when II have ridden for a few KMs and NOT as soon as I start the warm engine after a short butt break. I have read in a few forums that the pistons of many AVL 500LBs get loose. So, I am wondering whether this could be the case with her. The noise automatically goes away when I touch 68-70Ks on the speedo. I somehow have a feeling that this could be the PAV effect but I would like the veteran bulleteers' opinions on this. Or is this noise the clatter the AVL usually makes? I am very confused on this

Also, when I got home, I closely examined the engine like I do everyday and found a small bolt fallen behind the gearbox. This bolt doesn't look like one from the bullet as the LB500s bolts have a name CAPARO inscribed on them. I removed the bolt from the tough-to-reach spot. I also checked all other bolts and found them to be firmly fastened in their places. I will go for a leisurely 100-150 Km ride tomorrow as it is a Sunday. I hope that the noise made is because of the PAV and not anything serious. Meanwhile, how exactly does the PAV sound when it is working? I have heard that it makes a rattling/clattery noise while decelerating. Also, the speedo now shows 753 clicks.

Cheers,
Jay

Cabo Cruz · **Reply #25 on:** January 31, 2009, 05:51:21 pm

Jay, as it should be the case with a Royal Enfield owner, you are having a lot of fun!

CONGADULATIONS!!!

jayprashanth · **Reply #26 on:** January 31, 2009, 06:48:47 pm

Yeah Cabo. I am having a lot of fun with my LB500, but the sound worries me. There has been an issue with the piston of AVL500s, leading to entire piston barrel kits being replaced here in India. Here are a couple of links

http://www.bcmtouring.com/forum/motorcycles-f13/royal-enfield-500-lb-machismo-why-me-t1800/

http://www.bcmtouring.com/forum/motorcycles-f13/royal-enfield-500-lb-machismo-why-me-t1800-3/

So, I am a little worried about my issue of clicking/clattering noise at a particular rpm.

REpozer · **Reply #27 on:** January 31, 2009, 07:04:30 pm

Jay,
Did your service man advise you on engine noise?
Mine makes a valve clatter after warm up. I adjusted the valves enough to know what is normal and what is really an overly loud valve.
Have you been able to compair to another LB 500?

jayprashanth · **Reply #28 on:** January 31, 2009, 07:42:26 pm

REpozer,

Yes, the service man told me that the engine is sounding normal and this is how it should sound.

Comparing mine to another LB500, the noise that mine makes isn't different at all. But that is at idle and while I hear the engine at different throttle positions with the motorcycle standing still.

But, the issue I am having is that there is a clicking/clattery noise, when I hit speeds of 60-65 KPH in top gear. It vanishes once the speed touches 70 KPH. This noise occurs in every gear just before I upshift. I am certain that I am not lugging the engine and I also find this particular sound to be different from the knocking/pinging. It is more of a slight(low intensity) tic-tic sound that occirs at a particular mid rpm and then disappears at higher rpms.

Also, there is absolutely no degradation in performance, read acceleration, even with this sound. Tomorrow, I will go for a longer ride and check more thoroughly. This sound has been there since day one(She is 11 days old). I thought that it is due to the PAV all along, but some people say that PAVs make rattling noises only while deceleration. Obviously, this is leaving me more than a little confused. Also, I checked the plug and the tail pipe for any oil fouling. They are very dry. So, this means that there is no oil being let out of the ring which somewhat says that the piston is doing it's job correctly. Does the noise have to do something with tappet adjustment? I will try and find out.

REpozer · **Reply #29 on:** January 31, 2009, 07:58:36 pm

Alright Jay,
I would go for a ride, and compair, but it is -9*C(+10*F) so I will have wait for warmer weather.I wonder if the wind would block the noise for me .

jayprashanth · **Reply #30 on:** February 01, 2009, 04:21:36 am

Thank you REpozer.

jayprashanth · **Reply #31 on:** February 02, 2009, 04:58:35 pm

I think the tappets are making the noise. I dug around the www for all noises related to engine and finally found this video on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuqeZiNKEVU

Now, my LB500 doesn't make this ticking/tappetty noise when idling, but the same noise occurs intermittently when I accelerate and decelerate at particular rpms. I have mentioned the details in the other post of mine. Also, the intensity of the noise is lower than that of the noise that is captured on this video. It is a more subdued ticking. So, I guess it is the tappets which are making the "rattling" noise. The precise noise in my LB500 is similar to the one in the video when the camera moves away to the back of the bike. Can you hear the slight ticking? This is what my bike makes, and that too intermittently, only while acceleration and deceleration, and only while hot.

To eliminate the slight doubt of detonation that was lingering in my mind, i filled in a liter of 97 octane(the highest grade available in India) petrol and tried to hear whether the sound has been eliminated. No, it was making the same rattle. From this, I have inferred that it may probably be due to the tappets.
I will try showing it to a reputed bullet mechanic(Mr Gurunandan) tomorrow after work and take his opinion on this. Meanwhile, you guys also please watch the video closely and give in your inputs.

Cheers,

Jay

chumma7 · **Reply #32 on:** February 02, 2009, 06:23:19 pm

jp,
You are being hypersensitive and have nothing to worry about. A steady ticking tappet noise is a healthy part of this engine. You will come to enjoy this party. If there was anything wrong Nandan would have told you the first time he saw your bike. I am a Kannadiga raised in New York and have been to Nandan's shop many times whenever I am back in Bangalore. You are lucky to have the luxury of many fine Enfield mechanics at arm's reach. If there was anything amiss about your tappets, performance would be affected. (it would either hard to start or drive poorly when warm or misfire)
It also should be noted that in America, AVL engines were set up with rubber dampeners between the cylinder fins to quench this routine tappet noise.

Now about your fuel mixture. It is common to be able to start an enfield without choke considering it is almost summer in Bangalore and temperatures must be about 90F. This is not a sign of richness. If your plug is slightly dark but has not fouled during the 700+kms you have ridden then I advise you to not mess around with your air/fuel mixture because what you have now is perfect for proper break in. A slightly rich mixture will ensure a cooler engine during break in and is necessary considering the incredible amount of heavy stop and go traffic that bangalore driving has become.
You also must realize that filling up with high octane fuel may now cause your plug to foul since the extra octane burns slower and colder; therefore darkening the plug. Get a new plug if this happens and fill up the tank with regular octane.

Enjoy your brand new bike dost, she will only drive better and better as you get past these growing pains of break in. She will really be moving after another 800 kms of throttle feathering care.

-chumma

UncleErnie · **Reply #33 on:** February 02, 2009, 07:13:54 pm

What he ^ said.
Keep in mind, if you DON"T hear any ticking noises- that is the time to worry.

jayprashanth · **Reply #34 on:** February 03, 2009, 02:51:19 am

Thank you Chumma7 and UncleErnie.

Yeah, I guess I am a little too finicky about my steed

Coming to the break-in, I've been cruising now at 70Ks, doing the occasional 80Ks for a few seconds. I will push her slowly to a cruise speed of 80Ks(50MPH) this weekend when I would have 1500Ks on the odo.

Cheers,

Jay

jayprashanth · **Reply #35 on:** February 16, 2009, 02:00:03 am

Ok guys. I have done 1919 KMs on the LB500(I call her Electra). Now, I covered the first 500 KMs pretty fast and after the first service the trouble of the ticking/clicking started. I took it back to the brand store workshop at around 880 Clicks on the odo. They took all of four days to rectify the issue. The issue being that the valve clearances were being affected due to defective valve nuts. The reason for delay: parts have to be ordered. Phew. They DID NOT give me any receipt for the warranty service claiming that they don't give such receipts. When I asked for the defective parts, they said that they have to send it back to the factory.

Now, I went for a 200KM round trip on Saturday to a place called Sira after Tumkur. The bike started making a strange TUK-TUK noise which sounds like a piston slap. This noise is apparent at particular engine speeds at 60Ks in fifth and corresponding revs at lower rpms and then gets drowned out by the valvetrain chatter as I accelerate. I spoke to Gurunandan earlier and he said that many LB500s have this issue(loose pistons). Now, I'm going to go back to the Brand Store workshop tomorrow to see what has to be done. I haven't taken the bike to more than 80 Ks on the speedo and I have followed the most careful running-in procedures. I bought the bike on 21st Jan this year and since then Electra has spent five days at the workshop. The ODO reads 1919 clicks as of this moment. Apart from this, the power also seems low after the valve-nut replacement and there is a slight oil stain near the head(don't know if it is a leakage or stains when the head was opened up)

Now, I checked the plug for any oil fouling. The plug id dry and it indicates an almost perfect mixture. I am wondering whether the piston slap would induce oil seepage into the combustion chamber. Also, upon revving the bike and checking the silencer, there appears to be no black/white smoke. The silencer also indicates minute soot deposits and it doesn't have any oily residue. The bike also seems to be average on power, nothing to talk about. It feels fairly smoother than before by not powerful or torquey.

Can anyone advise how to proceed. In case the engine has to be opened up again and the piston kit changed, Do I ask RE to replace the engine or do I ask for a replacement bike itself? Many others have faced such issues. I think that opening an engine so early in it's life clearly indicates a manufacturing defect. Please jump in with your views on this.

Check these links,

http://www.bcmtouring.com/forum/motorcycles-f13/royal-enfield-500-lb-machismo-why-me-t1800/

http://www.bcmtouring.com/forum/motorcycle-reviews-f43/royal-enfield-machismo-500-review-t3222/

Any pointers as to how to escalate this matter would be highly helpful. I am hoping that this issue is amicably and speedily resolved by the Brand store workshop. Please help.

UncleErnie · **Reply #36 on:** February 16, 2009, 03:56:13 pm

Wow- there's a lot there...
In the USA, you get old parts back, and a receipt for everything. Is India different? If that happened here, I would not pay and go to a different dealer. I had something break on my new bike and it was replaced no problem I get the impression that they do things differently between the 2 countries- I just don't know.

I don't understand what a valve nut is. Do you mean the nuts that adjust the valve lifters? Unless RE uses a special casting, why not just go to a hardware store and get another nut?

Doesn't sound like piston slap- that usually diminishes when the bike warms up. Hard to imagine, but might it be a loose rod?
Have you checked for any loose bits (one of my fender stays came loose, for wexample)? I just lost a sale on another bike because the potential buyer came back from a ride and said the cams were shot! It turned out that the horn was a little loose. I tightened one acorn nut and the cam problem went away.

AS far as oil leaks around the rocker covers go- I had to get mine off by beating them with a piece of wood and a hammer. Maybe they did the same and just put it back together. There's no real oil pressure up there to force oil out, it could be just a re-used gasket that needed replacing in the first place?

jayprashanth · **Reply #37 on:** February 19, 2009, 02:29:15 pm

Turned out that the Pulse Air Valve had conked out making the terrible rattle. Amazingly, the RE brand store workshop had a replacement PAV. Put it on and returned after a paid service. The cams had some backlash. So, got that adjusted and replaced oil at 2000 KMs, again unscheduled service. Also the speedo cable was broken which was replaced. Meanwhile, when I told them to disconnect the entire PAV shebang by fitting a blanking plug/nut on the head, they said that it would void warranty. So, I let the PAV be. Now the bike is running smooth and nice and I am happy. Also, the cracked crash guard was replaced under it's manufacturers' warranty.

Also, I spoke to the sales manager and asked him about when the UCE500 would be launched in India. He told me that the factory is contemplating a release in early 2010. Sounds very attractive. Also, he had ridden the new UCE500 at the factory and he said that the bike pulls much better than the LB500. At the moment however, this is unofficial news.

Cabo Cruz · **Reply #38 on:** February 19, 2009, 03:20:43 pm

Brother Jay, I am delighted to hear that your bike's initial growing pains are behind you. And, I wish you trouble free and happy riding for many, many, many kilometers!

Kevin Mahoney · **Reply #39 on:** February 19, 2009, 07:03:39 pm

I like Scooter Bobs philosophy on strange bike noises. Don't worry about strange noises unless they continue for three days. LOL

t120rbullet · **Reply #40 on:** February 19, 2009, 08:43:57 pm

Quote from: jayprashanth on February 19, 2009, 02:29:15 pm

Also, he had ridden the new UCE500 at the factory and he said that the bike pulls much better than the LB500. At the moment however, this is unofficial news.

It's official, it does!

UncleErnie · **Reply #41 on:** February 20, 2009, 01:21:09 am

What is a Pulse Air Valve (sounds like a practical joke to me), and Where is it found?

jayprashanth · **Reply #42 on:** February 20, 2009, 02:14:53 am

Mr Cabo,
Thank you sir. Everyday I'm learning something from her. I'm loving each moment.

Kevin,
Yeah I think that's the best way to go. I'm slowly getting into the bullet groove.

T120rbullet,

We, in India are very excited about the new bull.

UncleErnie,

It is a contraption that feeds fresh air into the exhaust to reduce emissions. It makes a ratt;e, especially while decelerating. Good for the air we breathe, but pathetic to hear.

UncleErnie · **Reply #43 on:** February 20, 2009, 03:39:44 am

So THAT's what it is. I thought it was back-firing. I kind of like it, actually.

jayprashanth · **Reply #44 on:** February 22, 2009, 10:06:14 am

I had gone for a longish ride on my LB500 on Saturday, upto Ambur on the Bangalore-Chennai highway. The bike performed very well and I was happy. I rode at a constant speedo indicated 90 Ks which felt like a genuine 80 Ks. The bike was trundling along very nicely. The real revelation was how comfortable I felt after doing more than 300+ Ks in about 5 hours. Long live the bullet.

Meanwhile, today morning I took her out for a short spin and then I checked oil levels and found the clutch oil to be only about 3cm on a long screwdriver while the Pete Snidal manual recommends 5cm. When I loosened the central holding nut behind the gear lever, oil did flow out but I made sure that the oil level was upto the 5 cm recommended level. And this happens just three days after the Brand Store mechs changed all the required oils. Sad scene, this. Yes, the oil was new but they had just filled in half the required level. Even the engine oil was filled upto the full mark only when I personally checked it and asked the mechanic to fill it up. I didn't check the clutch and gearbox oil then. And, the Brand Store happens to be the run by the RE factory itself, phew.

Another observation I made after yesterday's ride was that the bike was leaking a few drops of oil through the tappet adjustment cover and the cavity through which the decomp wire meets the tappet cover. At high speeds, droplets of this oil was being thrown onto the left hand toolbox. Reason: tappet cover was slightly on the looser side. I have tightened the cover and now the oil stays where it is meant to stay. The flip side to this is that the decomp lever feels a little tighter than before. A smaller price to pay than oil being leaked out. She had managed to burn up 12.49 litres of petrol for 420 Ks. The average fuel efficiency comes up to 33.6 KMPL. The 420 Kilometres included 35% stop-go conditions in the city and 65% highway riding at constant speeds of 90 Ks on the speedo. The odo now reads 2520 KMs.

t120rbullet · **Reply #45 on:** February 22, 2009, 01:06:44 pm

Quote from: jayprashanth on February 22, 2009, 10:06:14 am

And this happens just three days after the Brand Store mechs changed all the required oils. Sad scene, this.

With the best right at your finger tips,
MTech
4, Srinika Complex,
Outer Ring Road,
Near Hebbal Lake,
Bangalore 560 094
There's no need to go elsewhere!

jayprashanth · **Reply #46 on:** February 22, 2009, 03:27:49 pm

Yeah I go to Nandan now and then. But, I need to get engine oil changed at the prescribed intervals at the authorised service stations to avoid voiding the warranty. Also, I was thinking of plonking in a HID kit on her to improve lighting, especially for lonely back roads when I start big time touring. Though her headlamps are sufficient for the city, I am not so sure how they would fare on the Indian highways. Talking about Indian highways, we have truckers driving with the high beam on almost all the time. This results in temporary blinding, especially for motorcyclists and car drivers. So, I was thinking of the HID as HIDs illuminate the side skirts of the roads pretty well which will prove very useful. She has a 14 AH battery which is more than sufficient to handle the amperage of this particular kit. Please chip in with your opinions gentlemen.

jayprashanth · **Reply #47 on:** February 28, 2009, 03:17:22 pm

My engine is pinging when I open the throttle quickly. To give you an idea about the rpms, it pings at 50 KPH in 4th and 60 kph in fifth and then goes away. How do I remedy this? I've tried enriching the pilot jet mixture by one turn but it doesn't seem to be working. Also on visual inspection, the manifold rubber doesn't seem to be cracked. So what could be the probable cause? The Pete Snidal manual says that timing usually stays put and doesn't cause pinging problems in TCI Bullets. The fuel used is Shell super unleaded which is of good quality/octane number.

UncleErnie · **Reply #48 on:** February 28, 2009, 04:48:18 pm

My conversion chart says that 60kph = 37mph. I forgot how many miles you have on the bike, but I think it's pretty well broken in by now? I think you're shifting up too soon. You're lugging the engine. After about 3000 kilometers, I wouldn't shift into 5th gear until I hit 75-80 kph. When you start shifting later, I think you'll find you only need regular or mid-grade gas.

Also- check to see that your header flang nuts are tight (loose nuts may cause your back firing noises while decelerating?).

Also II; Check first, but here in the 'States, changing your own oil won't cancel the warranty. You'll save a lot of money doing it yourself. (but you'll pay by having to clean up

Especially on the primary side!)

jayprashanth · **Reply #49 on:** March 01, 2009, 09:10:20 am

UncleErnie,

I guess I'm upshifting a little too early. I weigh in around 125 pounds and the knock doesn't happen when I'm riding solo. It does when I am doing doubles with a combined load of about 250 pounds. So, I guess it is down to my shifting early habit. Today, she rode very well. No knock whatsoever when I shifted a little late and I was riding solo. The plug shows a beautiful tan colour. Many thanks for your help.

Cheers,

Jay