Author Topic: Re-torque head bolts?  (Read 8855 times)

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UncleErnie

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on: January 24, 2009, 04:37:27 am
On old BMW's, you re-torque the head bolts before checking the valves.
Didn't see anything in the book, but I would assume I should re-torquie at 500 miles?
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clamp

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Reply #1 on: January 24, 2009, 07:43:52 am
Any overhead valves with push rods would be affected by tightening the head, theoretically.

       I would be extremely careful in torquing RE stuff. Infact I would not use a torque wrench but hand feel. The engine is alluminium and not very good at that.

   

       Personally speaking if there is nothing wrong  I would advise you not to.
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UncleErnie

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Reply #2 on: January 24, 2009, 12:48:54 pm
Different philosophies, I guess.  I don't know about the newer BMW's, but the older ones have an aluminium engine and I was taught to RE-torque by backing the bolts off a 1/4 turn and then re-tighten to spec. Possibly one of the reasons BMW engines lasted longer then other bikes of the time? 
I recently re-torqued the heads on my 75 Honda, and the leaks went away. 
I've heard that it also depends on what kind of bolt is used.  Just thought I'd get more info...
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clamp

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Reply #3 on: January 24, 2009, 01:39:37 pm
Sure BMW,--Honda crack em loose and re torque, nothing to worry about but the poor ole Re was made in India.

       I did'nt know you had a leak!!

       If you must ,--again I would do it by hand feel,  its only 7.5:1
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UncleErnie

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Reply #4 on: January 24, 2009, 02:03:28 pm
Holy Cow!  The lid on a jar of pickles is torqued down more than that!
No wonder the valve cover gaskets are glued on.

Well, the valves were a little tight.  Runs like a champ so far- so I guess if it ain't broke, when in Rome, prevailing wisdom, etc.
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ace.cafe

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Reply #5 on: January 24, 2009, 02:22:15 pm
On the Iron Barrel Bullets, I generally down-rate the torque values by about 10-15%, in order to help avoid stripping the threads in the aluminum alloy.
I've had success using 20 ft/lbs on the head nuts, instead of the specified 24 ft/lbs.

Normally on a Bullet, if you have a leak at the head joint, re-torquing will not solve the problem in most cases. This is because the Bullet uses a spigot that protrudes above the deck of the barrel and mates into a recess in the head. If the spigot is a bit too tall, then the head can't seat low enough to seal the head gasket, and it leaks oil. Further torquing doesn't solve it. Only dressing-down the top of the spigot, or thicker head gasket would help in that circumstance.

This is VERY common in Bullets.
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UncleErnie

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Reply #6 on: January 24, 2009, 04:15:11 pm
Thanks Mr Cafe.

No leaks (yet)- merely preventive maintenance.
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Vince

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Reply #7 on: January 24, 2009, 05:53:52 pm
     I re-torque the head at 300 miles, and if possible, again at 1,000 miles. I use a torque wrench and torque exactly to spec. Here's the trick: Use a torque wrench that measures in INCH-LBS to 600 max, not foot -lbs. Convert by multiplying by 12, so 24 ft/lb = 288 in/lb. Most measuring devices are most accurate in the middle of their range. If you use a 100 ft/lb or higher torque wrench it will not be accurate at 24 lbs. I could be high or low by as much as 20%.
     I have been turning wrenches for almost 40 years. I ALWAYS use a torque wrench on any critical component such as a cylinder head or bearing cap.


clamp

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Reply #8 on: January 25, 2009, 01:16:55 am
Pre 60's Rolls Royce did not give torque settings.

    As a young man at RR school a kid put his hand up at the back of the class and asked why is that. The waxed mustache teacher standing there rocking on his heels wearing a brilliant white coat scowled at the young man and said.

    "If you don't know when a bolt is tight we dont want you working on our engines.

     That was 40 years ago ,--I never did buy one.
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UncleErnie

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Reply #9 on: January 25, 2009, 02:01:52 am
That reminds me...
There was an old ad for Rolls Royce with a headline that said, "At 60 mph, the loudest sound in the cabin of this car is the ticking of the clock." 
A friend of his at another agency asked permission and used this line for Land Rover;
"At 60 mph, the loudest noise in the cab of the Land Rover is the  roar of the engine."
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REpozer

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Reply #10 on: January 25, 2009, 02:39:30 am
 I can remember in the 70's when a Chevy 350 was more dependable then the engine in a Rolls. I guess RR is doing fine ( think its owned by BMW)and  now Chevy needs a bail out.
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clamp

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Reply #11 on: January 25, 2009, 07:01:28 am
I don't remember ever doing anything on a Roller more than plugs points brake pumps and sometimes tappet blocks (followers).

  There  was heater actuators brakes and more brakes, compliant suspension, and exhausts which never fitted because they fitted through holes in the Chassis.

     The 6 cylinder did head gaskets occassionally -- 39 head studs.

    Ive blown 2 chevys--front crank bearing turned and cut off oil to 1 and 4 --Corvette  L82 and a mercruiser 228 (chev 304).

      If they were similar  the price does'nt reflect it ole chap.

     

   
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REpozer

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Reply #12 on: January 25, 2009, 08:12:27 am
A buddy of mine had the Corvette engine in his small fishing boat.He insisted on NGK plugs. I was amazed at how much the engine took a beating and used up plugs.

I wonder how a RR auto engine would hold up in marine application ?
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clamp

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Reply #13 on: January 25, 2009, 01:29:37 pm
Any marine engine has to have a marine cam which is similar to a 4 wheel drive vehicle cam    =  torque.

    A marine engine uses water cooling. Overlap of the cams will encourage reversion which is not good when the exhaust is water cooled.

   Water cooled exhaust manifolds are not available for the RR 5.3/4 liter  or the 6.1/4 liter engines.
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rick505

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Reply #14 on: January 25, 2009, 02:41:15 pm
Wow, thread went from question on retorque head bolds to Rolls Royce Marine engine.   :)