Author Topic: Thought I'd perform the initial 300 mile service - Questions now  (Read 2356 times)

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rick505

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Well, my '08 Classic AVL hit the 300 mile mark so knowing that was the mileage quoted for the initial service out to the garage I go.  Warmed her up with a short ride around to get everything circulating....oil change seemed to go without a hitch (yes, opened all three plugs) had a bit of an issue getting the filter out but finally got that done.  Remembered to notate the order of all the pieces when I removed them and got the new filter and parts back in the right order and buttoned up, added oil and confirmed the level when warmed up. 

With a boost in confidence, I decided to tackle the Primary.  I guess what I thought was the drain is really the plug to check for the fill level so after a little struggle of trying to drain as much of the oil as I could so it wouldn't flood out when I removed the cover, I get that loose, most of the remaining oil hits the pan.  I'm feeling like a real mechanic now.  Hey wait a minute, I didn't realize part of the alternator came with the cover........OK, careful with the wires.  Hey, I think those yellow wires should have insulation on them.

Does anyone see an issue with me soldering them and covering with heat shrink tubing?? 

In addition, does this appear to be an "OK" amount of sludge for the first 300 miles??



I did find out the Royal Enfield pan our hosts sell works like a Gold Diggers pan.  When I drained the oil, the bottom looked like this......


Heck, I haven't even started on the transmission.   ???


ace.cafe

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Yes, by all means, repair those yellow wires.
It's not uncommon for that to happen, and you don't want to have them shorting out.

The first oil change will generally yield the most metal filings, as it is washing out the inside of the engine stuff that was in there from assembly, and also from breaking-in.

If your primary chain looks like it's running close to one of the alternator mounting stantions, keep an eye on it. On the Iron Barrel models with the E-start, the chain runs close to one of those mounting stantions, and it can rub on it, and file-off some of the aluminum as the bike runs.
I don't know if this is an issue with the AVL, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was.

You're doing fine!
 ;D
« Last Edit: January 18, 2009, 10:31:10 pm by ace.cafe »
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REpozer

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Rick , Of course I concure with Ace.

The picture of the primary oil looks good to me .The factory uses about 420 ml of ATF in the primary.
Be sure and fill the primary will a full liter of 20w-50 oil.It can be diluted with ATF if clutch stiffness is an Issie ( it was not with me) .I use off the shelf fossil oil on the primary side. I 'vie changed mine 3 times now.
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Leonard

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I guess what I thought was the drain is really the plug to check for the fill level

Careful with that little plug Rick, it strips very easily.  Go ahead, ask how I know this.
2009 Triumph Bonneville T100
2004 Royal Enfield Sixty-5 (RIP)
2001 Kawasaki W650 (going, going...gone)
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birdmove

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    The engine,trans & primary oil I've drained from my 2007 Classic, and the oil filter and screens have been pretty clean. You should see what an oil filter looks like when you change it on a Yamaha XT225. I had been pre-warned from an owners forum, so I was expecting it, but it was nasty!! Lots of "swarf" deposited on the oil filter. The second change didn't look great either, but the bike runs fine.

   Jon
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rick505

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I figured out the secret to performing an oil change in the Primary and transmission.  It's use some sort of wheel chock or similar to keep the bike upright.  Using either the center or side stand just seems to get in the way of any drain pan. 

I was able to get the wires spliced from the Alternator and button up the primary and add oil.  Took it for a spin to check for leaks and warm up the transmission.  Came back and saw the drain plug for the tranny. The center stand was in the way of the drain pan.  Putting it on the side stand cleared the pan but then it was leaning away from the drain.  Oh well, I had nothing better to do than stand there holding the bike upright while it drained.  Lucky it was warm,  watch the exhaust pipe  ;), so the fluid ran out pretty fast.

Rick


UncleErnie

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I'm going to do this for the first time tomorrrow (Thursday). Sounds even messier than the GB500.   I've never seen a bike like this.
- No seperate oil tank, rught?

- There are 3 bolts under the engine?!  Are all 3 drain plugs- or what?

- The ransmission oil goes in on the right side (took me a long while to figure out that's where the clutch cable was)?
Run what ya brung


UncleErnie

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Also- regarding the trans;  I have an almost full Redline synthetic automatic transmission oil bottle- can I use that?
I also have an almost full Lucas 85-140 grade gear oil (not sure about the numbers now)- can I use that, or do I need 85-90 wt specically?
Run what ya brung


rick505

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UncleErnie,

I can't answer all your concerns but I "believe" the ATF you have would NOT be good for the tranny.  There have been discussions here regarding using ATF in the primary case however.  I'm told the picture of the drain pan in my original posting is actually ATF used from the factory.  I used 10W40 Motorcycle oil in the engine and primary.  I'm going to use some synth 75-90 (I think, it's in a cold garage right nbow) Gear oil for the tranny.  I suspect Ace or someone with vastly more experience will post their guidance.

Rick


UncleErnie

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Rick- what about the engine drain plug?  Unscreww all 3, or what?
I can't imagine why there are 3 bolt heads underneath...
Run what ya brung


faltnerc

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Reply #10 on: January 22, 2009, 09:01:45 pm
Hello!
Always unscrew all three oil drain plugs.
One (the rear) is for the oil tank, which (at all enfields) is behind the crank case in one housing only seperated by a deviding wall (most of the oil will come out here).
Second is to drain the crank case (because there is always some "wet sumping")
Third is for the oil pipes leading to the cylinder head.
The recommended oil is:
Engine: 15W40 API SG, max 2Lts., do not overfill!
Primary: 15W40 API SG, min 420 ml, can be more
Transmission: EP 90 API GL-4, 450 ml

Regards
Chris