[beecoterie]

I offer my tale of woe, wonder if anyone can help get me pointed in the right direction.

Bought a used 2002 Royal Enfield Bullet 500ES with about 8k miles on it. Started nice and easy on the warm day on which I purchased it from S-k Service in Hatley, WI USA.

More or less started and ran nicely until this happened:

Someone (not me) plugged the tube coming out of the top of the carb to the drain coming out of the bottom of the float bowl. I didn't notice it until the air filter became a gasoline-logged mess. That air filter was old anyways so I've gotten a new one... and was hopeful she'd run/idle smoothly again.. but no dice! Soon as I let off the throttle it dies.

Surely air v gas 101 but I'm very much a novice. Can anyone tell me if 1. I've possibly done any damage having that tube connected as it was (drove a few blocks before totally crapped out - with gas pouring out of the bottom of the air filter) and 2. if not, what steps shall I follow? Start with the idle screw? Clean out the carbs?

Please and thank you!

[Vince]

     The tube on the top is a vent. The tube on the bottom is the overflow drain/float bowl drain. The carb is overflowing enough that the drain overflow is being pushed up INTO the vent by the weight of the gas in the tank. Plugging the drain into the vent like this will hide the gas leak in the beginning stages of failure. The previous owner may have done this to unload the bike. The shop should have caught something like this. That excess gas in your air filter is also washing down the cylinder walls and wearing out vital engine parts.       
     The ONLY cure is to remove  the carb, completely dis-assemble it, then clean and replace the worn parts including the worn out float valve. Change the oil and filter..

[creaky]

Beec not sure what this means (Surely air v gas 101). Surely you could not have done much harm. The carby, I presume is a Mikcarb and easy to clean and blow out the air passages. Also change the oil and filter. See if any petrol comes out in the oil. I hope not. If it has the standard air filter just run without it as an experiment. You can leave it out altogether if you are not in a dusty environment (from my experience) but you may have to go up to the next richest main jet to be on the safe side. Good luck. Let us know what you find.

[beecoterie]

Sounds like I'll be cleaning my carb out this weekend!

Thanks everyone for the tips. I'll post a picture this afternoon of how these tubes were connected. But it sounds like folks have it visualized pretty well already.

One thing I want to clarify is that this wasn't on S-k Service. They, in my experience, were a really great shop! What happened is that while I was out of town, someone had to move my bike and I think that they thought that the tube came disconnected while they were moving it....and so "re-"connected the thing. I drove it about 4 blocks before gas started coming out the air filter and the bike died. So I am hoping any damage is minimal!

Thanks creaky and Vince!

[Arizoni]

Perhaps you are right but the important thing to think about is, the float valve is not closing.

This can be caused by a worn valve seat or the float has developed a leak and has filled with fuel.
If the float seems to have any fuel at all inside of it, it must be replaced.

There also have been times when the float valve needle gets 'hung up' and doesn't close even though the float is trying to close it.

A few sharp raps on the carb, float chamber with a screwdriver handle often will "unstick" the stuck valve and solve the problem.

[dginfw]

In addition to checking the carb, you may also want to check the oil also.  You probably won't 'see' gasoline in the oil,  but if its thinner than usual or smells of gas, change the oil.  A small inconvenience now could save some premature engine wear

[rtillery02]

When ya git the carb bowl off & and the "FLOAT" out, give it a little shake to see if you can hear any fuel in it from a tiny hole causing it to...well, not float. If one has a leak, it'll need to be replaced, they're not too expensive. A float that DONT float=flooding carb.

[beecoterie]

First, thanks all for the responses so far. Unfortunately still not idling (without keeping on the throttle). As long as I am giving it gas it runs, but as soon as I let off... it slows and eventually stops the engine.

I have:

1. Changed the air filter
2. Changed the oil
3. Cleaned the carb and inspected it (all OK)

Next steps? Adjust the idle screw? Replace the spark plugs?

Thanks as usual!

[beecoterie]

Finally got it idling by adjusting the screw on the top of the carburetor!

[creaky]

What screw on top of carb? If it is a Mikcarb, isn't that the cable adjust screw on the top for taking the slack out of the cable. You should be adjusting the idle speed with the adjusting screw on the left above the float bowl. (Knurled slotted screw) Clockwise to increase idle. When that is correct then adjust the cable length so there is just a bit of slack.

[beecoterie]

Right, the screw on top of the Mikcarb. Adjusting it did impact idle... so maybe there's been too much slack in it? Otherwise I'm not sure how to dial it in. When I leave it where it was, no amount of adjusting that idle screw on the left had any impact on idle.

[ace.cafe]

Right, the screw on top of the Mikcarb. Adjusting it did impact idle... so maybe there's been too much slack in it? Otherwise I'm not sure how to dial it in. When I leave it where it was, no amount of adjusting that idle screw on the left had any impact on idle.

The big screw for idle setting should make a lot of difference. If it doesn't, then something is wrong.
Perhaps it may have dented your slide, resulted in no effect from the screw, or something.
Anyway, I would recommend taking out the slide and looking inside there to find out what is going on. Playing with the cable tensioner is no way to be setting idle speed.

[beecoterie]

thanks creaky and ace. Will check out that idle screw. I've already taken the carb out and cleaned it so will just remove the screw and inspect.

Given that there is an adjustment screw on the top of the carb, how do I ensure that is adjusted properly?

[ace.cafe]

thanks creaky and ace. Will check out that idle screw. I've already taken the carb out and cleaned it so will just remove the screw and inspect.

Given that there is an adjustment screw on the top of the carb, how do I ensure that is adjusted properly?

Back out the idle speed screw (large head screw)completely. Adjust the cable so that the slide can hit the bottom of the carb body with a click. Then turn the idle screw in so that the slide just barely begins to rise up.Then start the bike and adjust the idle speed with that screw until it is approximately 1000 RPM.

[beecoterie]

Ok will try!