[UncleErnie]

Got to thinking. (I took a couple Tylenol.  Thanks for asking)  These bikes aren't "new tch", but they're shipped with synthetic oil- right?  Everyone says it take about 2K to break the engine in- right?
I'm thinking it might behoove me to run regular dino oil (Castrol 20-50) for the first 500 miles.  In this particular case, am I nuts?

[Blue Ridge Wheeltor]

I wasn't aware they were being shipped with syn oil. I think whoever told you that was wrong.
The first oc comes around 300-500 mi, so syn would be a waste. A lot of people like to do the second around 1000 mi. They 1500-2000 mile thereafter, so syn would be a terrible waste.

[ace.cafe]

I very seriously doubt that ANY Enfield is shipped with synthetic oil from the factory.
Break-in requires some friction for items to properly bed, and it's been shown that synthetic oils may be counterproductive in this regard for break-in purposes.

The proper oil for break-in would be a Dino oil which is API rated with the SL rating, or previous.
Not SM rating.
SM rated oils are the new formulations to extend the lives of catalytic converters, and lack sufficient zinc and phosphorous additives to properly lubricate solid lifters and cams during a break-in period.
Dino oil of API rating of SL or earlier, 20w-50, will get it done.

For the new UCE with hydraulic lifters, the foregoing information MAY not apply, but I have no specific information about that yet.

[Kevin Mahoney]

I'm getting tired of saying this, but once again Ace is right. The bikes are shipped with regular oil in them. Actually only a minimum amount of oil. The factory recommends 15W40 now instead of 20W50, but 20W50 is fine. 15W40 is common in India and I think in Europe also, but not so common here in the colonies.
They also told me recently that 10W40 is fine. I am kind of a 20W50 guy in air cooled motorcycles though. The new UCE will have the same recommendation I am told.

[UncleErnie]

A friend who restores motorcycles -mostly British- says that the 20-50 has about the same amount of zinc as 30 weight. 

My DEALER seems to think the bikes are shipped with synthetic oil, and has (apparently) been topping the crankcases off with synthetic oil.  I had told him that that made no sense to me and wanted him to put Castrol 20-50 in for the first 500 miles. 
I wonder where he got the idea they are shipped with a synth oil.

I'm sure Mr Cafe's parents are proud of his regular confirmations.  As long as he doesn't develope bursitis from all the pats on the back, I suspect there's no harm done?


Speaking of old Brit bikes- does anyone know if a Brooklands muffler will fit?  Might it hang too low?

[Kevin Mahoney]

I think the factory is going to recommend synthetic in the UCE.

[birdmove]

    First service at 300 miles. I did an oil and filter change at 1000 miles. I used Castrol 20W-50 motorcycle oil. It must be working well, as my 2007 uses no detectable oil, and I just recently did the 2000 mile service. The only problem with the Castrol is I'm having a bit of a time finding it at the stores. I may switch to Harley-Davidson 20W-50 just because I work at an HD/Buell dealer, so can get this oil without any trouble-and get an employees discount. I'd rather stick with the Castrol though.

    Jon

[UncleErnie]

I was just talking about regular Castrol- as found in auto parts stores.
After the first 500, I'll switch to the Honda blend.

[Blue Ridge Wheeltor]

I was in Wal mart today and checked the oils. Unless it is motorcycle specific, or diesel oriented, it's going to be SM rated.

[ace.cafe]

I was in Wal mart today and checked the oils. Unless it is motorcycle specific, or diesel oriented, it's going to be SM rated.

Yes, I noticed that too.

I've been getting my oil at Auto Zone. They have a "house brand" oil, as do most large auto parts chain-stores. The Auto Zone  store brand oil is SL rated. At least it is in the stores that are around here.
I think most other auto parts stores will have SL oils under their store brand too. They buy their oils from the major oil companies too, but they buy surplus lots or older formulations. And they sell it cheaper. It's good oil.
And in our case, if it is SL rated, like it is in my town, we have a cheap source of this older oil formulation that we can access.

Eventually the older ratings like SL will run out, and the store brands will be SM rated, and then we'll have to use additives for break-in purposes. Only for the classics and AVL engines though. The UCE has hydraulic lfters, so that can use the SM oils without  worry.

The diesel oils do have the necessary additives we need, so that is another avenue we could pursue. However, I read an article that said the diesel oil has such a high detergent content that it might also wash away the additives we want left on the cams and lifters. I don't know, I just read that and am passing it along.

Anyway, check your local auto parts stores for their house brand oil, and I think you'll find some SL rated stuff there.

[Blue Ridge Wheeltor]

Last I checked, Auto Zone was being supplied by Warren Oil. I believe Warren had a major recall in the past.
Anything to ever wanted to know about oil can be found on this forum:

www.bobistheoilguy.com

These guys are fanatics.

[ace.cafe]

Last I checked, Auto Zone was being supplied by Warren Oil. I believe Warren had a major recall in the past.
Anything to ever wanted to know about oil can be found on this forum:

www.bobistheoilguy.com

These guys are fanatics.

I'm not too concerned about a recall in the past.

I'm not an oil fanatic. What I want is an oil with the right additives in it so my lifters and cams don't wear down prematurely.
Beyond that, I'm not too fussy. I use cheap oil, and change it very frequently.
That's about it.

That bobistheoilguy.com website is pretty cool, though.

[bobg]

My dealer, L&L Classic Cycle Hubbard,OH, recommended Pennzoil Long Life Gold 15W-40 which is SL rated for my 08' AVL Classic...and they throw in a FREE quart with every bike purchase 

[Alaroyal]

Ran the factory oil until the 300 mile change then went with Amsoil Synthetic 20 - 50.  There was a good bit of silver dust in the oil when it changed at 300, but I couldn't wait to get synthetic into it. Put in synthetic engine oil and gear oil, (75 - 90).

I've used syn for years in everything I own, cars, trucks, diesel tractor, motorcycles, lawnmowers, use synthetic mix oil in my 2 stroke weed eater, chain saw, blower engines' gasoline.  I'm sold on it.

For what its worth, Harley Davidson Screaming Eagle editions come from the factory with synthetic in all three holes.

[REpozer]

I've used el cheapo motor oil for years, I have a ford Taurs with 180,000 miles ,never had been in the engine ( 3rd water pump). I buy the right viscosity and API crest and change every 6 months.
I will say that if you leave your machines out in the below freezing ,synthetic will not thicken up, or if you hate to change oil and leave it in forever you should consider synthetic.
I have 15w-50 Mobil in my RE, thought I would try, after that I may use off the shelf 20w-50, I do regular changes.

[Ducati Scotty]

I'm getting tired of saying this, but once again Ace is right. The bikes are shipped with regular oil in them. Actually only a minimum amount of oil. The factory recommends 15W40 now instead of 20W50, but 20W50 is fine. 15W40 is common in India and I think in Europe also, but not so common here in the colonies.
They also told me recently that 10W40 is fine. I am kind of a 20W50 guy in air cooled motorcycles though. The new UCE will have the same recommendation I am told.

Kevin, I know this is an old post.  Any major reason not to use Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 in my 2010 C5 UCE engine here in Portland,OR?

Thanks,
Scott

[R.D.]

I very seriously doubt that ANY Enfield is shipped with synthetic oil from the factory.
Break-in requires some friction for items to properly bed, and it's been shown that synthetic oils may be counterproductive in this regard for break-in purposes.

The proper oil for break-in would be a Dino oil which is API rated with the SL rating, or previous.
Not SM rating.
SM rated oils are the new formulations to extend the lives of catalytic converters, and lack sufficient zinc and phosphorous additives to properly lubricate solid lifters and cams during a break-in period.
Dino oil of API rating of SL or earlier, 20w-50, will get it done.

For the new UCE with hydraulic lifters, the foregoing information MAY not apply, but I have no specific information about that yet.

IMHO
Kevin is correct
# 1 - He is the head honcho at CMW, and an official channel partner ,representing REML for the U.S.
# 2 - The Factory / Principals , have to keep C.M.W. updated on technical upgrades, changes, mods etc. via service bulletins & he might be the first person to know if any changes/ mods are incporporated in U.S. spec. Enfield models.
# 3  REML still does not have the resources as huge as the Japanese biggies to invest into the latest tooling and machining technology to produce engines to very close tolerances that might allow usage of synthetics from factory fill itself , Because - Synthetics comprise of additives that prevent frictional wear and tear & the old tech. derived engines of the Enfields, do require a little bit of wear and tear between moving parts, and that's the reason we call it a ''Bedding in /
Running in''  process and its the specific reason why an Enfieldeer is first required to drain the oils in the first couple of hundred miles & does find quite a bit of ferrous/non ferrous metal wear parts floating in the oil during the first 1 or 2 or 3 oil changes
# 4  Synthetics / Dino-Minerals oils from various brands - Is again like a mixture of base oils and additives and ''special formulations'' tried and tested to operate under varied operating / load conditions and environs, but the basics still boils down to ''lubrication''........prevent metal to metal contact or friction between moving parts

Over all  (I Feel ) - As far as Royal Enfields are concerned, i am sure that synthetics are still not used as first fill lubricants           
 

         

[UncleErnie]

Mr Scotty, my personal experience over 40 years, and that of most tech-types i checked with (just to make sure), recommended I use dino oil for the first 1000 miles +/-.   I don't get the UCE is at a place where synthetics would be advisable during that time.

Personally, I change my oil around 750 miles, so synthetc oil seems like a waste of money.  I like to dump the junk that accumulates.

[Ducati Scotty]

I already have over 1000 miles on the bike.  I'll have over 2000 before I plan to switch to synthetic.

Scott

[UncleErnie]

Ride on, brother.
May all your dreams come true. 

At least you care.  On another forum I frequent, folks are posting stories about those who never check and blow up their engines.  Amazing...

[Ducati Scotty]

I already have over 1000 miles on the bike.  I'll have over 2000 before I plan to switch to synthetic.

Silly me!  The bike already had an oil change before I bought it and the dealer put in 15w50 Maxima full synthetic.  I did another one yesterday at 1500 miles with the same oil.  I'll proably change again when I get back from my trip to the bay area and go to Mobi1 1 4T 10w40 full synth moto oil then.

Scott