[Joe28]

So, If you been following my continuing sage of, "Joe's bike breaks when he needs it most' on this station, you know that my sprag went south.
I called the dealer, he's got parts coming, but I figure I'll take it apart, order parts and keep his for a spare for me or???
For those who are afraid to do it, relax, it's as hard as a tune up!
Here's all the tools I used for the disassembly,
a big 2 finger puller a harmonic balance puller
32,22,18,14,13,11,10 mm sockets
7/16", 7/8" sockets
4mm, 5mm Allen head sockets
3/8" ratchet, with 12" extension
2 flat screw drivers
Crescent wrench
Rubber hammer
1/2" impact driver gun, (you can use a 1/2" ratchet instead. Nothing was THAT tight)
took @ 1 hour to get it in a million pieces. That was with my dog coming in for a "Quick! Pet me Joe, I'm so lonely" 100 times, breaks to watch the NFL game on the tube, (what kind of a work shop would it be without a T.V)?
Now, for the weird thing I found-
I was expecting to see one of the paws broken, a bent something, something broken!
There was zip!
The paws were all at the same angle but 2.That were say, at a 45 degree angle, instead of a 30 degree.
the sprag was just jammed?
Now, the motor was chugging away at low rpm, (cold) when it happened, that may explain why.
I tried to rotate it in every why I could to engage the paws, but nope.
I went "Postal" on it  and banged it flat on the work bench, then took a small screw driver and worked the paws.
Finally the 2 fell out. I reinstalled them and...
It freed up!
Put that part together and it's working fine?
Intresting.
I think because of the location, (up high in the primary cover), that it was dry and that caused it to hang up, OR
The 10-40 oil was thick causing things to slide slowly and hang up.
Me thinks when I re assemble it, (with a new sprag, I'm not taking any chances), I'm gonna switch to synthetic oil, (Motol makes a 0-40 bike oil), or trans fluid, (I use that in my off road bikes when it gets cold. It makes the clutches "grabby" but shifts well no matter how cold. Plus I think I'll raise the oil level up.
I look at it this way, I had to do only 1-2 more steps cuz I wanted to swap out the front sprocket to a smaller one, (when I get the side car).
Your thoughts?
Joe
I ride, therefore I am!

[RAKe]

Joe, look around for advice on this forum regarding the use of ATF in your primary (read closely what is written by Vince and ace.cafe).  When you find it, there is also some good advice on overfilling your primary.  Glad that sprag worked out--I have read some stories about its weaknesses.

[Joe28]

Thanks!
I've read those post when I was looking at buying this baby.
I had used ATF in my '04 bullet with the cast I-Ron head. On that bike it made the clutch drag when hot, but it was summer and warm out, not @ freezing.
That's why synthetic. oil is more than likely the best choice.
I think I can safely fill the primary up to the bottom of the shifter seal, (any extra will I'm sure dribble out the seal0, finding it's own height).
My idea is to get as much lube whipping @ up to the sprag unit as possible.
Joe
I ride therefore I am!

[ace.cafe]

There have been some technical notes issued by CMW that running a higher oil level in the primary "may" help improve the life and performance of the sprag assembly.

[Tiny Tim]

Joe,

Further to your stripping down report, can you confirm if the Sprag Unit had a solid inner or large cut-outs.

When mine went, I complained to the UK importer. He said that there had been a known problem with earlier models (Electra X) where Sprags with a solid inner had been used. This restricted the lubrication with the obvious results.

Guess what mine was?

It would be interesting to compare the old and new on the bench?

[Joe28]

Solid Inner?
Do you mean the drive or driven gear/ or the sprag it's self?
My sprag looked like a bearing except it had the paws instead of rollers? Just like the pic in the manual??
I can tel you, my scoot was assembled in June 18, 2008, as someone marked the inner case with the date, so my sprag was a early model.
I just ordered just the sprag from CMW, $175 
When I get it I'll compare the 2 side by side.
Stay tuned.
Joe
What would my life be like with out credit card bills?

[clamp]

A sprag clutch is used in all sorts of applications, such as automatic transmissions . As you say they are like a bearing and are not made by RE . No vehicle manufacturer makes its own bearings.

    A sprag is the same, If my sprag goes south I shall be at the engineers shop measuring it up and buy one.

   Speeding up the idle might offer some longevity especially when its cold started and is likely to spit back.

[Kevin Mahoney]

If you have a Lean-Burn engine get a new modified ignition system from us. This is a no cost mod. I have an extensive post on it elsewere here.

[Bath Bullet]

Joe,

Further to your stripping down report, can you confirm if the Sprag Unit had a solid inner or large cut-outs.

When mine went, I complained to the UK importer. He said that there had been a known problem with earlier models (Electra X) where Sprags with a solid inner had been used. This restricted the lubrication with the obvious results.

Guess what mine was?

It would be interesting to compare the old and new on the bench?

Pinched this picture from an auction site (not eBay), I know the pictures owner pretty well and he wont mind!
Thought it may help you identify your spag types, I personally dont know if this is the older or later one, but I hope it helps.

[Joe28]

Well, that looks like mine So it must be a new style.
I wonder if someone could get a pic of the old style, (just for sheets and giggles)?
My idle was  low, it was off choke, ccccold that faithful morning.
All my parts should be in soonth. All I have to do it call and get the new ignition.

Now, if the sprag is gonna go, it's when a motor, "rocks backwards".
So, let's picture this.
You parked the bike, it's in gear, you hop on it and PUSH the bike back whilist it's in gear....................................................... Crunch-er-no???

[Kevin Mahoney]

It is violent nature of the kickback that does it, not just pushing it backwards. I have raced Dwarf Cars for quite a while. They carry Japco 4 cylinder engines for the most part. Kawasaki's seem to be the most popular. If you spin out and don't lock up the brakes or push in the clutch before you go backwards you will take out the starter. I think the reason you hear about this much on those bikes is that they are multiple cylinder bikes and don't backfire generally.

[Joe28]

Tanks!
I was riding home Friday thinking about that.You'd REALLY have to wail on the bike pushing it backwards to get the same power as a kick back!
When I was a young squirt, I had a Rickman motorcycle with a Montesa engine.
I'd run it half way up a hill, stall it and let it roll back and dump the clutch and get it to run in reverse!
We had more fun running that in reverse than racing MX with it!
Joe
So many bikes, so few $$!