Author Topic: High RPM/ Won't throttle down  (Read 5704 times)

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swakefield

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on: September 03, 2007, 03:10:38 pm
I have the stock carb on my 2000 Classic, and it wants to throttle down very slowly.  Even after I manually move the grip.  The cable is lubricated and I've tried re-routing it every whichway.  I've cleaned the slide and the guts of the carburetor.  Any ideas?  Zip ties too tight?  Pinched by the tank?  If someone can tell me how they route their cable, that might be helpful. 

I bought the bike used, so it has been fiddled with, and I'm also a newbie to the Enfield and motorcycle world.

Thanks.
2000 Bullet Classic
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gapl53

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Reply #1 on: September 03, 2007, 03:18:17 pm
I would start by taking off the tank and have a look. The tank tunnel is tight fit with the wiring and all.


little_a_o

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Reply #2 on: September 03, 2007, 03:33:37 pm
warning this message is coming from a newbie:

I had a similar problem and I had one problem mask the other and back again.  Right to the point:  I would go right to the idle screw and turn it out.  Then adjust the cable.  When that fails I would come to the online community and get some real advice  :-X
« Last Edit: September 03, 2007, 03:36:25 pm by little_a_o »


Leonard

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Reply #3 on: September 03, 2007, 10:20:16 pm
I have the stock carb on my 2000 Classic, and it wants to throttle down very slowly.  Even after I manually move the grip.  The cable is lubricated and I've tried re-routing it every whichway.  I've cleaned the slide and the guts of the carburetor.  Any ideas?  Zip ties too tight?  Pinched by the tank?  If someone can tell me how they route their cable, that might be helpful. 

I bought the bike used, so it has been fiddled with, and I'm also a newbie to the Enfield and motorcycle world.

Thanks.
Can you hear the slide "thunk" in the bottom of the carb when you let go of the throttle?  If so your cable is probably OK and I would look at the advance weights.  They get sticky sometimes and the rpms will be slow to idle down.  Shoot some WD-40 behind the points plate and see if it helps.

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Thumper

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Reply #4 on: September 04, 2007, 12:22:52 am
You might try lowering the idle speed. With the bike fully warm, lower it to the point where you feel like it might actually stall. Go for a ride and see if it idles down better. If so, incrementally increase the idle speed (always with the engine warm) to the point that it will idle but won't race.

You might also pull the top and inspect the diaphragm, slide valve and needle.

Matt


dewjantim

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Reply #5 on: September 04, 2007, 01:05:49 am
Sounds like it might be a vacume leak. The boot between the carb and intake can be bad about not being tight or it might be cracked. This will cause the symptoms you are having. Try tightening up boot and spray a little ether around the rubber boot while the bike is running. If the idle speeds up using the ether you still have a leak and probably need a new rubber boot. Kevin at RE USA can fix you right up.......Dew.
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DaveG297

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Reply #6 on: September 13, 2007, 03:23:12 am
Dew, I went thru 2 of them dang india rubber manifolds.    I think sometimes they get a bad batch of rubber.   My foot peg rubbers and shift and kick start rubbers rub off big time black streaks.   Have replaced most of them.....that crank vent hose was the worst.  I used 7/16 fuel hose to replace it.  It actually blew a hole in it when it went.   AH, but I love the bike..........dg


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #7 on: September 13, 2007, 09:30:16 pm
The older the manifold ( as in I bought it 5 years ago and it has been on the shelf ever since) the lower quality the rubber is. The newerones are better. This is a wear item however even in the best of circumstances.
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Foggy_Auggie

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Reply #8 on: September 23, 2007, 03:28:34 am
My same problem was due to two causes - eventually fixed by my dealer.

The most severe was no returning throttle at all and having to hit the kill switch to shut down a racing Bullet.

I cleaned the cosmoline off the throttle slide, fiddled with the the pilot jet, checked for air leaks and triple checked the cable and controls.  The problem still remained.

The dealer found the sticking throttle slide was due to casting flash in the threaded top cap slide housing binding the cable.

The mysterious intermittent racing at idle was the rubber "O" seal on the choke tube (linked and controlled by the choke lever) wasn't fully seating down when the choke was clicked off before riding.  This "O" seal was sticking to the tube and would raise up with the choke being on - instead of staying seated flush to the top of the carb housing.  This caused the intermittent air leak playing dice with the idling speeds.  Spraying "Chain Wax" on these parts appear to solve the problem - plus manually pressing down the "O" ring whenever the choke is operated.

Regards, Foggy

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