Author Topic: Roller bearing clutch lift pad  (Read 4399 times)

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Chasfield

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on: October 23, 2008, 05:56:44 pm
I just bought one of those roller bearing clutch lifter pads to replace the standard plain steel mushroom and washer on my 4 speed Classic. The claim is that clutch drag will be reduced. I was thinking that that maybe going a bit far. I can see that wear of the clutch lift mechanism will be reduced and the clutch pressure plate might just run fractionally cooler.

Has anybody had any positive experience of these units?

I have to install new clutch springs anyhow and the roller lifter only cost 7.50 GBP, so nothing much to lose.

 8)
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geoffbaker

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Reply #1 on: October 23, 2008, 06:15:50 pm
I bought one too but have yet to install it. I was a little concerned because the old "mushroom" had a projection of about an eighth of an inch that fit through the final clutch plate cover, keeping it centered. The new piece has only about half a millimeter of projection, and I was concerned it might run out of center...


40Grit

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Reply #2 on: October 23, 2008, 07:53:02 pm
I installed one 5 year ago; still working fine. An inexpensive item that gives me just a little more peace of mind on a potential wear area.


cochi

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Reply #3 on: October 23, 2008, 07:54:39 pm
Chasfield, I have an 03 Bullet Classic and I  installed  a roller bearing clutch pad about 6 months ago. It seems to have reduced clutch drag a bit, but overall it hasn't made much of a difference.cochi :)


Chasfield

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Reply #4 on: October 23, 2008, 08:07:44 pm
Thank you for your responses. It looks like the roller bearing lifter will be at least worth the few pounds it cost.

Regarding geoffbaker's comment on the bearing carrier's projection into the pressure plate:

Mine looks to be closer to 1 mm than 0.5. In any case I don't think there would be any cause for concern as there should be very little side loading and the spring posts in the clutch center do the work of positioning the pressure plate on the clutch's axis.
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geoffbaker

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Reply #5 on: October 23, 2008, 08:52:44 pm
Thank you for your responses. It looks like the roller bearing lifter will be at least worth the few pounds it cost.

Regarding geoffbaker's comment on the bearing carrier's projection into the pressure plate:

Mine looks to be closer to 1 mm than 0.5. In any case I don't think there would be any cause for concern as there should be very little side loading and the spring posts in the clutch center do the work of positioning the pressure plate on the clutch's axis.

Well, as I tore out my diesel engine yesterday, for more machine work, I'm taking the time to rebuild my throttle control and while I've got the whole primary chain case out, I might as well put in the clutch pad... we'll see how it works!



cyrusb

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Reply #6 on: October 23, 2008, 09:07:06 pm
When they say clutch drag I think they are talking about the drag on the realese rod. You wont be able to notice that. But you should be able to hold your clutch in for extended periods without burning the end of the rod,and or adjusting screw.
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Jeri Danger

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Reply #7 on: October 23, 2008, 09:14:58 pm
When they say clutch drag I think they are talking about the drag on the realese rod. You wont be able to notice that. But you should be able to hold your clutch in for extended periods without burning the end of the rod,and or adjusting screw.
Hey Cy
I am new to Bullets I am still learning.
The previous owner of my bike fried the clutch
I need to do a rebuild and I am waiting on parts.
Please explain "without burning the end of the rod,and or adjusting screw"
Is that a common problem?
Jeri


geoffbaker

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Reply #8 on: October 23, 2008, 09:25:53 pm
One of the biggest problems with the design of the clutching system on the RE is that (at least on older models, certainly on my 2000) it suffers from some serious friction issues. Essentially a spinning clutch is being acted upon by two long rods that passes entirely through the center of the main gearbox shaft. Pressure on the rods forces the clutch to open and close. The rod is not lubricated in any way and the only thing that keeps it from getting really, really hot is that there is a ball bearing between the two rods so they can spin to some extent, with the clutch. The roller pad you can purchase replaces the solid metal clutch mushroom end with a disc that contains roller bearings so it can spin against the outside of the clutch plate and this also helps reduce friction.

Hope this explanation helps some and was what you were looking for...
You can imagine if the rod isn't turning how quickly it will heat up where it is in contact with the spinning clutch...


Leonard

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Reply #9 on: October 23, 2008, 09:54:25 pm
I'm going to show my ignorance here but how do you install the roller pad?  I have the 5 speed xmsn.  I see the rod and all that but can't wrap my mind around how it goes together.  Do I have to remove the clutch?
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geoffbaker

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Reply #10 on: October 23, 2008, 09:56:31 pm
I'm going to show my ignorance here but how do you install the roller pad?  I have the 5 speed xmsn.  I see the rod and all that but can't wrap my mind around how it goes together.  Do I have to remove the clutch?

Yes, you remove the primary chain and pull the clutch out. Behind the outer clutch plate housing is where the roller pad sits. If you don't have a clutch puller you can make your own 30 cent tool... check the threads.


Jeri Danger

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Reply #11 on: October 23, 2008, 10:02:59 pm
Hi Geoff
When I removed my primary case(my bikes) to check for damage
I noted the two rods and ball bearing.
It is more clear to me now.
I had other problems to deal with and didn't spend lots of
time on it.
Thanks
Jeri


geoffbaker

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Reply #12 on: October 23, 2008, 11:34:21 pm
Hi Geoff
When I removed my primary case(my bikes) to check for damage
I noted the two rods and ball bearing.
It is more clear to me now.
I had other problems to deal with and didn't spend lots of
time on it.
Thanks
Jeri

By all means don't remove your own primary case... that's a job for a skilled surgeon :D

Yeah, I had to do a LH to RH conversion on my gearbox and the first time I got it off the bike and tilted it the rods and bearing fell out... couldn't see the bearing listed anywhere in either Snidal or the big Bullet manual... someone had to explain to me what it was for....


Jeri Danger

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Reply #13 on: October 23, 2008, 11:53:23 pm
Hi
I removed the clutch side rod to inspect it and the pad,
Stuck to it by a glob of caramelized lube was the ball bearing
Lots of very fried lube, clutch bits and crap everywhere.
The ball looked ok, the two rods ok.
The friction plates just awful,the steel ones warped like potato chips
and burned to hell.
I cleaned it all, new lube, and put it back together.
It almost works(almost)
The roller lifter sounds like a good idea
Oh! I did find the ball number at Hitchocks I think
I am
Jeri Danger!!!


geoffbaker

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Reply #14 on: October 24, 2008, 12:27:16 am
Hi
I removed the clutch side rod to inspect it and the pad,
Stuck to it by a glob of caramelized lube was the ball bearing
Lots of very fried lube, clutch bits and crap everywhere.
The ball looked ok, the two rods ok.
The friction plates just awful,the steel ones warped like potato chips
and burned to hell.
I cleaned it all, new lube, and put it back together.
It almost works(almost)
The roller lifter sounds like a good idea
Oh! I did find the ball number at Hitchocks I think
I am
Jeri Danger!!!

The balls are pretty standard - same as are used in the head bearing, I believe. Sounds like you need all new clutch plates, Ms. Danger...